Help Spring V.S Coilover Conundrum (Sagging)
04-03-2017, 05:33 PM
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Spring V.S Coilover Conundrum (Sagging)
Hey guys, long time lurker. Bought the car back in December, been enjoying it stock, now ready to do some (conservative) mods.
I know the coilover versus springs debate and I know the difference between them. I've searched the forum and have gathered a lot of info before asking this question. My past two cars have run coilovers (slammed) and now I'm a little older and find myself not necessarily wanting to put up with the aggressiveness of coils.
My question is, do springs (on these cars in particular) still have the same sagging issues they used to?? I remember in my ricer Honda days in high school, springs gave your car that "Cali lean" look after they settled in.
My search around the forum has uncovered a few isolated incidents of sagging, just wanted to know if it's a definite issue. I just want to lower it enough to close the wheel gap a little, never going to track it. Not looking to tuck tire and win any "most insane fitment" awards.
The adjustability of coils is always great but since I'm going more conservative with this car, I was just looking to save a few dollars.
I know the coilover versus springs debate and I know the difference between them. I've searched the forum and have gathered a lot of info before asking this question. My past two cars have run coilovers (slammed) and now I'm a little older and find myself not necessarily wanting to put up with the aggressiveness of coils.
My question is, do springs (on these cars in particular) still have the same sagging issues they used to?? I remember in my ricer Honda days in high school, springs gave your car that "Cali lean" look after they settled in.
My search around the forum has uncovered a few isolated incidents of sagging, just wanted to know if it's a definite issue. I just want to lower it enough to close the wheel gap a little, never going to track it. Not looking to tuck tire and win any "most insane fitment" awards.
The adjustability of coils is always great but since I'm going more conservative with this car, I was just looking to save a few dollars.
04-03-2017, 06:25 PM
#3
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, and those would be the ones I go with if I went coilovers. After shipping, though, it's still about a ~$200-$300 price difference between those and springs. Was just seeing if I could get away with not having to spend the extra money for a setup that I will never use to its full potential.
04-05-2017, 11:31 AM
#5
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Alright, guess I'll do this the right way the first time and go coils. So much for using the extra cash saved for the new Char-Griller I had my eyes on lol. Thanks for the responses guys.
04-11-2017, 08:59 PM
#6
Do all coilovers require camber? If you just want a simple 2" drop?
04-11-2017, 09:41 PM
#7
If you can keep the drop mild, in the 1.25" range, the camber should be reasonable and the toe in back should still be able to adjust to spec.
Going deeper than that, the camber starts to get excessive and more critical is the toe spec in back, this has just a minimal adjustment w/ the oem toe bolt. Having toe out of spec will result in very poor tire wear and can result in poor handling. Getting a rear camber/toe kit will get you back to spec. The front oem upper control arms have no camber adjustment, only the toe is fully adjustable through the tie rods. If you go to a 2" drop you may need front arms too. The rear kit is about $200 and is pretty much a needed item. The front set is $350 and might not be needed.
Going deeper than that, the camber starts to get excessive and more critical is the toe spec in back, this has just a minimal adjustment w/ the oem toe bolt. Having toe out of spec will result in very poor tire wear and can result in poor handling. Getting a rear camber/toe kit will get you back to spec. The front oem upper control arms have no camber adjustment, only the toe is fully adjustable through the tie rods. If you go to a 2" drop you may need front arms too. The rear kit is about $200 and is pretty much a needed item. The front set is $350 and might not be needed.
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04-12-2017, 12:44 AM
#8
If you can keep the drop mild, in the 1.25" range, the camber should be reasonable and the toe in back should still be able to adjust to spec.
Going deeper than that, the camber starts to get excessive and more critical is the toe spec in back, this has just a minimal adjustment w/ the oem toe bolt. Having toe out of spec will result in very poor tire wear and can result in poor handling. Getting a rear camber/toe kit will get you back to spec. The front oem upper control arms have no camber adjustment, only the toe is fully adjustable through the tie rods. If you go to a 2" drop you may need front arms too. The rear kit is about $200 and is pretty much a needed item. The front set is $350 and might not be needed.
Going deeper than that, the camber starts to get excessive and more critical is the toe spec in back, this has just a minimal adjustment w/ the oem toe bolt. Having toe out of spec will result in very poor tire wear and can result in poor handling. Getting a rear camber/toe kit will get you back to spec. The front oem upper control arms have no camber adjustment, only the toe is fully adjustable through the tie rods. If you go to a 2" drop you may need front arms too. The rear kit is about $200 and is pretty much a needed item. The front set is $350 and might not be needed.
04-12-2017, 08:42 AM
#9
I think Tein H Tech are about that range (the Tein S Techs are a deep drop spring, so don't confuse them). Tanabe are also a mild drop spring and are best w/ RWDs, they tend to drop lower in the back w/ the AWD Gs, for some reason they only make 1 part # for the entire G line. Swifts & Eibachs are in the 1.5" range and your results may vary. Alignment can vary quite a bit from car to car, and depending on your alignment tech, as some can work a bit more magic than others 
Some that have mild drops have had good alignments without camber/toe kits while others needed the kit(s) to make it right.
Some that have mild drops have had good alignments without camber/toe kits while others needed the kit(s) to make it right.
04-12-2017, 09:02 PM
#10
I think Tein H Tech are about that range (the Tein S Techs are a deep drop spring, so don't confuse them). Tanabe are also a mild drop spring and are best w/ RWDs, they tend to drop lower in the back w/ the AWD Gs, for some reason they only make 1 part # for the entire G line. Swifts & Eibachs are in the 1.5" range and your results may vary. Alignment can vary quite a bit from car to car, and depending on your alignment tech, as some can work a bit more magic than others
Some that have mild drops have had good alignments without camber/toe kits while others needed the kit(s) to make it right.
Some that have mild drops have had good alignments without camber/toe kits while others needed the kit(s) to make it right.
04-12-2017, 11:00 PM
#11
Start Here - Application Look-up | eibach.com/america
Swift lists at 1.3" F 1.0" R 7.5/7.8kg spring rates
Swift Springs USA
So the Swift would be your best bet for a drop that you may not need a camber/toe kit (but that doesn't mean that it's a sure thing).
Here's a great review thread on the Swifts for the AWD coupe
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...awd-coupe.html
04-18-2017, 07:43 PM
#12
Premier Member
If you can keep the drop mild, in the 1.25" range, the camber should be reasonable and the toe in back should still be able to adjust to spec.
Going deeper than that, the camber starts to get excessive and more critical is the toe spec in back, this has just a minimal adjustment w/ the oem toe bolt. Having toe out of spec will result in very poor tire wear and can result in poor handling. Getting a rear camber/toe kit will get you back to spec. The front oem upper control arms have no camber adjustment, only the toe is fully adjustable through the tie rods. If you go to a 2" drop you may need front arms too. The rear kit is about $200 and is pretty much a needed item. The front set is $350 and might not be needed.
Going deeper than that, the camber starts to get excessive and more critical is the toe spec in back, this has just a minimal adjustment w/ the oem toe bolt. Having toe out of spec will result in very poor tire wear and can result in poor handling. Getting a rear camber/toe kit will get you back to spec. The front oem upper control arms have no camber adjustment, only the toe is fully adjustable through the tie rods. If you go to a 2" drop you may need front arms too. The rear kit is about $200 and is pretty much a needed item. The front set is $350 and might not be needed.
04-18-2017, 09:40 PM
#13
04-19-2017, 03:17 PM
#14
Premier Member
Do you mean what should you expect your camber specs to be without kits at that drop range? Camber will probably be in the -2.5 range w/ toe adjusted to spec in front. And in back about -2.5 or more with toe a bit out of spec, or squeezing toe in spec w/ camber about -3. Hopefully you have at least a rear camber/toe kit in your shopping cart