Violent wheel hop G37S
Violent wheel hop G37S
I've got an 08 sport, on vossen ccv3 20x10.5 with 275/30's all around with stance ss coilovers and some sort of aftermarket rear camber arms. Now, my problem is that I have got some insanely violent wheel hop whenever you accelerate too aggressively, even from a roll. If the tires spin whether wet or dry pavement I will experience wheel hop. The car has been freshly aligned to oem spec, and has proper tires on it. Any input is appreciated and yes I have searched high and low on this forum an elsewhere but to no avail.
Might want to check your rear differential bushings/mount. I also had what I considered bad wheel hop, but wasn't sure as this is my first car with independent rear suspension. Anyway I noticed the telltale sign of leaking bushings, the stain on the differential cover. Had it replaced and I haven't noticed wheel hop since.
What gear does this happen in?
If it is third or higher, it may not be wheel hop, but a worn out inboard CV joint.
Alignment has little to do with wheel hop...
I think you need to adjust your coilovers compression/rebound damping.
If this just started, it could be as simple as the cooler weather reducing your tire's grip. (performance compounds slip very easy when temps are below the 60s)
If it is third or higher, it may not be wheel hop, but a worn out inboard CV joint.
Alignment has little to do with wheel hop...
I think you need to adjust your coilovers compression/rebound damping.
If this just started, it could be as simple as the cooler weather reducing your tire's grip. (performance compounds slip very easy when temps are below the 60s)
Last edited by SonicVQ; Oct 30, 2016 at 04:48 PM.
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You can also play with tire pressures in the rear. Wheel hop is a very specific result of a number of factors - tire grip versus resonant frequencies of the suspension components are high on the list. Suspension architecture is another large part of it, but everything works in a system, so change one thing at a time, and see if that helps. Start with free things like tire pressures and damper settings. Then move on to bushings, then to revised geometry things like traction links, trailing arms, etc. It's largely a guess-and-check process if you're already working with an existing suspension system. But don't forget - the suspension is a *system*. So changing one component, like air pressure, changes everything. Be methodical about it so you don't run yourself in circles.
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