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Help IPL Break wear and replacement

Old Aug 20, 2015 | 04:02 PM
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IPL Brake wear and replacement

Hey all,

I picked up an IPL just under two weeks ago. It was from a used car lot that buy cars from auction. The car was "safetied" but I think they looked at it and said low enough KM's and signed off. 4 days after owning it I have started to get a lot of squeal from my rears, only occasionally when breaking (well that I can tell from the inside of the car anyway) but fairly often when rolling slowly. Car sounds like a beater because of it and I cringe and at the Timmies drive-though

So I plan to do a little work this weekend, just organizing my garage to make room for my new baby.

I am sure I have read one of the feature of the IPL is larger brakes, does anyone have experience with them, is there a recommened pad and/or rotor or should I just look at OEM.

This car is not lacking any braking power but hey I want to start to make it my own and break mod even if minor like a change in pad/rotor brands seems like a good place to start.

TIA

Carl

Last edited by Digilog; Aug 25, 2015 at 03:04 PM.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 04:29 PM
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It's Brake.


With that said, the IPL brakes are no different than the S model brakes. Members setups here are usually based on their driving style/dust preferences. I use oem pads/stoptech rotors for the street and yellowstuff pads/stoptech rotors for the track. User mileage may vary. Good luck.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 08:58 PM
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Your brakes may need a good round of greasing if your pads still have a decent amount of material. CRC caliper grease applied to all the metal on metal contact points (pad backing plates, clips and pins) should all be greased. And if your pads have shims a light coating between the shim and backer and a bit heavier coat on top of the shim that makes contact w/ the pistons.

If your pads are shot, Centric Posi Quiet are a decent daily driver pad that is quiet and low dust, and Centric premium rotors are a good replacement. Rockauto.com has good pricing or site vendor KNSbrakes.com
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by blnewt
Your brakes may need a good round of greasing if your pads still have a decent amount of material. CRC caliper grease applied to all the metal on metal contact points (pad backing plates, clips and pins) should all be greased. And if your pads have shims a light coating between the shim and backer and a bit heavier coat on top of the shim that makes contact w/ the pistons.

If your pads are shot, Centric Posi Quiet are a decent daily driver pad that is quiet and low dust, and Centric premium rotors are a good replacement. Rockauto.com has good pricing or site vendor KNSbrakes.com
Yeah I'll b checking the pad material, and greasing this weekend, just hoping its not the squealers I am hearing. I also read on the review site here the Stop techs are good.

I was also wondering about a rotor recommendation, mine have a nasty rust ring and center which looks less than awesome. Do the Centric's have good paint on the non braking surface?

TIA

Carl
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Digilog
Yeah I'll b checking the pad material, and greasing this weekend, just hoping its not the squealers I am hearing. I also read on the review site here the Stop techs are good.

I was also wondering about a rotor recommendation, mine have a nasty rust ring and center which looks less than awesome. Do the Centric's have good paint on the non braking surface?

TIA

Carl
The Centric Premiums have a good paint coating (I think they call it e-coating) and are a good rotor for OEM replacement w/ better venting than OEM. Stoptech makes great pads, I still have them in the rear (have Wilwood BBK in front) and they have performed very well. The Stoptechs do dust more than most but IMO it's a worthwhile tradeoff for the bite they provide.
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by blnewt
The Centric Premiums have a good paint coating (I think they call it e-coating) and are a good rotor for OEM replacement w/ better venting than OEM. Stoptech makes great pads, I still have them in the rear (have Wilwood BBK in front) and they have performed very well. The Stoptechs do dust more than most but IMO it's a worthwhile tradeoff for the bite they provide.
I got my car up and wheels off and was trying to remove the calliper but the lower bolt is blocked by some suspension bits and I couldn't get a 3/4 socket in, gotta get a smaller socket and see if I can squeeze it in. Anyone else have issues getting this bolt out? However I was able to look at he pads and they seem to have a good amount of material left.

I saw you mentioned a specific synthetic grease in a thread (thought it was this one but I don't see it). What temp does the grease need to be good to? I picked up a synthetic grease and Canadian Tire but I don't know if its high enough temp.

I also added a pic of the Car you can see the rusty front rotor, un-cool lol

TIA

Carl
Attached Thumbnails IPL Break wear and replacement-p_20150822_185435.jpg   IPL Break wear and replacement-p_20150813_185632.jpg  

Last edited by Digilog; Aug 25, 2015 at 02:54 PM. Reason: Added missing image
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Digilog
I got my car up and wheels off and was trying to remove the calliper but the lower bolt is blocked by some suspension bits and I couldn't get a 3/4 socket in, gotta get a smaller socket and see if I can squeeze it in. Anyone else have issues getting this bolt out? However I was able to look at he pads and they seem to have a good amount of material left.

I saw you mentioned a specific synthetic grease in a thread (thought it was this one but I don't see it). What temp does the grease need to be good to? I picked up a synthetic grease and Canadian Tire but I don't know if its high enough temp.

I also added a pic of the Car you can see the rusty front rotor, un-cool lol

TIA

Carl
It's CRC caliper grease and probably good to 1000 degrees or more (just guessing).
You can use a 6pt. box end wrench and wack it w/ a rubber mallet or use a cheater pipe on the end of the wrench for leverage.
As far as the rusty rotor, you can use a wire wheel on a drill to clean it up, then spray w/ VHT Flameproof paint, just mask off most of the pad contact area but leave abotu a 1/4" up into the pad area so the pad will cut a nice clean edge. Should hold up well.
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by blnewt
It's CRC caliper grease and probably good to 1000 degrees or more (just guessing).
You can use a 6pt. box end wrench and wack it w/ a rubber mallet or use a cheater pipe on the end of the wrench for leverage.
As far as the rusty rotor, you can use a wire wheel on a drill to clean it up, then spray w/ VHT Flameproof paint, just mask off most of the pad contact area but leave abotu a 1/4" up into the pad area so the pad will cut a nice clean edge. Should hold up well.
Thanks I'll give that a try,

BTW love the "Crazy Joe Devola" avatar.

Carl
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by AroundTheG37
It's Brake.


With that said, the IPL brakes are no different than the S model brakes. Members setups here are usually based on their driving style/dust preferences. I use oem pads/stoptech rotors for the street and yellowstuff pads/stoptech rotors for the track. User mileage may vary. Good luck.
I thought the IPL came with the otherwise optional R-Spec/Nismo pads?
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