sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

So I'm currently lowered on Tein-S springs and they are a bit too low for me (G was already lowered when I purchased the car last year). I like the look but hate always having to worry about scraping whenever I see a bump/dip on the road. As such, I am considering picking up a set of coilovers so I can raise the car a bit but have a couple of questions:

1. I plan on getting Tein coilovers but I read that there are 2 different types. What is the difference between the two?

2. when I install the coilovers, will it affect the current alignment spec that is on the vehicle? I know that I will need to get it realigned since I can probably get better specs once the car is raise but I am concerned about the waiting period when I am waiting for everything to settle. After the install, will my current alignment specs stay intact or will it be out of whack? The reason I ask is because I'm afraid that the bad alignment specs will ruin my tires since I will need to drive around with it on for awhile until everything is settled.

2008 G37S

Thanks in advance for the help.

kyro840

1. I think the two types of coilovers you are referring to are the Basics and Super Streets. The Basics are softer, have less adjustment range, no damper adjustability and are cheaper than the Super Street.

2. Yes, your alignment specs will be slightly off if you raise the car, but you should be able to wait for it to settle before getting another alignment.

On another note, I would recommend going with Swift or Eibach springs. They are not as low and they are good springs for our cars.

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

It'll be off in the sense that my current specs would change? Or it'll be off in the sense that it won't be at optimal specs because I haven't gotten an alignment done yet.

I thought about this and considered it but thought that maybe coilovers would be a safer bet in case after the install it is still too low/high. I do remember someone posted a couple pictures of spring comparisons and I saw one that I really liked but cannot locate the thread again so I couldn't compare. At this point, I'm still kind of 60-40 coilovers but am still considering springs too since I don't plan to make changes once I get a good setup going.

Thanks for the reply.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Yep, anytime you change the suspension height up or down your alignment geometry changes. You should be safe to drive for a while if the changes aren't drastic. Like Kyro said, just wait for your new suspension to settle out before getting it aligned (and drive a bit more cautiously since your vehicle may handle a bit less predictably).

Also since you have an 08 I'd imagine you've got a lot of miles on your OEM dampers unless they've been changed out recently. Springs would be a good option w/ fresh dampers but may be overly harsh if your dampers are getting close to their expiration date.

Another option would be Koni dampers w/ those Springs Kyro mentioned.

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

Okay so when changing the suspension, do I actually remove bolts that are the actual alignment bolts? If so, I'd like to figure out which bolts are for the actual alignment so I can mark them and get the specs back to what I currently have even if they'll be off after the install.

A couple more questions...

• so from what I've researched, the only adjustability of the Tein Basis would be the height, correct? I'd like to keep things relatively simple so I think this will work well for my application since I do not plan to track my G
• when installing the coilovers, are there any particular procedures I need to follow beforehand? IE, I've read something about needing to pump the shocks beforehand to prevent popping noise issues or something but don't know if this applies to coilovers as well
• does the coilover already come properly preloaded or do I have to set it myself? If so, any advice on how to correctly set it?
• I have an extra car so after the swap, I can let the car sit for 7-10 days while the suspension settles before the alignment. However, will driving help the suspension settle "better" or it makes no difference?
• for a 2008 G37s, the TEIN basis part number is GSP92-1UAS2 right?

Thanks in advance again.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

The front OEM arms have no adjustment, if you get new front camber arms you can run a length of twine from each mount point to the center of the ball joint and duplicate that measurement for the new camber arms mounts to the ball joint, this will get the front close. In the back just mark the center point of the camber arm bolt and the toe bolt where it rests in the slot. If you get a new adjustable camber arm do the same twine measurement to get the aftermarket arms the same length as the OEM ones, that will get it close enough to carefully drive your car a few days until you get it truly aligned.

That IS the correct Tein part #, and coilovers are quicker to settl, nbut you should drive it lightly a couple times over 3 to 4 days just to be sure everything settles out.

Not sure about the Tein preload process, I've heard there's no front preload. Maybe shoot Rochester a PM since he just bought them and should have the instructions handy or call Tein and see if they can email you the info. I never prepped my coilovers and haven't had any issues but again, might ask Tein about that.

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for all the questions blnewt but I've been reviewing this video for coilover install

https://youtu.be/nlmDYah5UsU" target="_blank">https://youtu.be/nlmDYah5UsU

and don't see any mention of camber arm/toe bolt removal so I'm still confused at which bolts I should be marking. Can you please clarify?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Check the picture in this link, the upper lone bolt in red is the toe bolt and the inner bolt attached to the red arm (aftermarket adjustable camber arm) is the camber bolt. Should be easy to ID once you look under your car. Both those bolts will be attached at an offset on a large concentric washer and on each side of the washer is a little raised ridge that keeps the washer in it's "track".
Specialty Products Company | SPC Alignment | The Automotive Alignment Leaders

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

Oh okay!!! I think I got it...thank you so much for the picture!

The video that I posted only removed the outside bolt of the lower control arm and they were able to remove the spring from the assembly so that's why I got confused. Hoping I won't need to touch the inner bolts (unless if it's recommended?) but at least now I know which ones they are if I have to.

Okay one more please (sorry!!)...you mentioned that the front has no camber adjustment but what about toe? Will I be touching/removing the toe bolt on the front when I'm doing the swap?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Toe in front is adjusted through the tie rod connection to the steering rack, so there's full adjustment there

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for all your help blnewt!

I also just spoke with Andre from Tein and he said that the preload is not adjusted beforehand so we would have to adjust the preload when installing the coilovers. Aside from the preload however, there is no other prep work that is needed.

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

So I'm researching for the upcoming install of the coilover swap and was wondering if someone could help me locate the the torque specs for these bolts for the front suspension:



Looking at the FSM, the big bolt is a 19mm and I THINK it is torqued to 120 ft/lbs and the 3 smaller 14mm bolts are torqued to 89 ft/lbs (I think). However, I'm not really sure if I'm reading it right since I don't know if I'm comparing the right bolts. If someone could please correct or confirm for me I would greatly appreciate it.

Here's a copy of the page I was looking at:

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

You're reading it right, 120 ft lbs for the bad boy and 89 for the other 3. Be sure to have a backer wrench on the nut holding the 120 ft pounder, IIRC it's 21 or 22mm, then just some PB blast (the night before) and a 2 ft breaker bar and it should break free without much trouble.

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

So I installed the rear coilovers tonight after work and boy, what a royal pain in the @$$ it was to get the bottom spring bucket bolt back into place. I had so much trouble realigning the bolt on both sides and don't understand how others can do it so easily? I did use a floor jack to help lift the spring bucket up but could not get the middle piece realigned properly for an easy install. How does everyone else do it so easily??

The good news is the rear is complete as I somehow did eventually get it in. The bad news is I still have the fronts to do tomorrow and am wondering if I will have a similar issue? For those who have completed their installs are there similar bolt issues like the rear that I should know about in advance?? Any tips?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Not sure why you had problems getting the back to cooperate, it's been a while since I messed around w/ mine so I don't remember the particulars

It seems like you've done the research, just take your time and if you happen to run into any issues shoot me a PM.
BTW, did you soak w/ PB Blast and have a 2 ft breaker bar on hand?