I can tell you the stock sport brake setup won't help resolve the shudder. I have the S with the big brake package. And I definitely can't shake this problem.

Crazy part is, I've been replacing brakes my whole life. This is the first car I've had trouble with. I didn't even start indexing rotors until I got this car. All my other vehicles seemed to deal with the rotors just fine out of the box and on the vehicle.

I bed the brakes exactly like Centric describes on their site. I've tried Centric's high end rotors and low end rotors along with two stoptech brake pad versions. Both sets had the same issue.

I may just replace the hubs, then I know for sure it's something else.

 

Please keep me informed if you do. I would love to lose the shudder it sucks.

 

What kind of wheels do you have and are they hub-centric? If they're aftermarket, make sure they're sized appropriately for our cars (66.1mm). If they're not spot on, you can usually get hub-centric rings that will fill the gap between the larger area for the hub. These ensure that the wheel is centered properly.

May not be the issue, but worth a look. What kind of pads are you running?

You may want to check out RacingBrake's tech information. There's a lot of good and interesting info in there.

Tech Tips: Main - RacingBrake.com

 

Not to insult your intelligence, taverty, as it seems like you know what you're doing but... don't overlook the obvious... are the lugs are tightened accurately, and more importantly, consistently, with a torque wrench? Could be an old wive's tale but I've always heard that's one of the biggest culprits behind warped rotors. I usually rotate myself but if I happen to get it done at Costco or something, I always re-torque at home, even though Costco, in particular, seems good about looking up and using the right spec.

 

Please keep us informed. Been dealing with the same problem lately.

 

Completely hear you on the proper torque. I previous had a Volvo 850 Turbo that was very sensitive to lug nut torque. I always tighten the lug nuts to factory spec in the star pattern. And just like you, after any shop takes off the wheels I immediately redo the lugs at home to the proper torque.

On wheels, I do run aftermarket rims in the winter for my winter tires. Stock rims in the summer. The winter rims must be hub-centric because they fit just as tight if not tighter than the stock rims on the hub. I got them from tirerack with my winter tires.

Here's my rotor/pad install history:
1/30/2013 35,874:
Stock Rotors Turned
Stock Pads Replaced

11/26/2013 44,215:
Rotors: Centric 125.42100 (Hi-Carbon Rotors)
Pads: Centric/StopTech 309.13460 (Street Performance Front Brake Pads)

11/11/2014 54,673:
Rotors: Centric 121.42100 (C-Tek Standard Rotors)
Pads: Centric 105.13460 (PosiQuiet Ceramic Pads)

As you can see it's pretty much a yearly change. The shudder gets to a point where I can't take it anymore and I change the brakes. I went the cheaper route the third time because I wanted to see if there was any difference between the cheap and expensive rotors. No difference, shudder came back a few thousand miles after changing.

 

It seems like the Gs are very susceptible to this, even our site administrator G37Sam has judder that he can't pinpoint. And Sam is running a monster AP racing BBK setup
It's possible that it's something other than the actual rotor/caliper/pad culprits that are usually the case since those items when replaced don't seem to help.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...ke-judder.html

 

I first developed the same shudder at about 22k and had the same problem with my Maxima. I just thought it was my driving habits, good to know theres a TSB for the G at least.

 

I finally found the solution to my never ending brake judder. I sold the car and since then, zero brake judder!!!

On a more serious note, I think it's a poor design of the rotor mounting surface on our cars.

 

Glad you finally fixed it

It would seem that it's something related to the hub mount, especially since time & again all the other moving parts that are R&R'd don't solve this issue.

 

Ugh, reading this makes me think it's not worth me replacing the hubs. Sounds like it's likely to come back. I got the dealer to print out the service history since I'm the second owner. Looks like the previous owner was having issues with the judder as well. I think the previous owner confused it with a tire balancing issue. The dealership went to the extent of exchanging all the tires/rims while under warranty. Of course that didn't solve it, the guy was back at the dealership the next week. Maybe the hubs were bad from the factory.

Has anyone replaced the hubs and had success eliminating the judder?

 

Hey Brad, how is your Wilwood BBK setup holding up as far as judder is concerned?

 

For the most part it's been pretty good, but I've done what I said I wouldn't do (back several replies in this thread) and it rears it's ugly head. It's a bit hard to pinpoint because it's not consistent. I took the cheap route w/ basic Centric rotors (not the better premium set) so that may play a part

 

Does anyone have aftermarket hub recommendations? I'm thinking I should not use OEM since it seems the hub itself could be the problem. Unfortunately, I've heard that the quality of most after market hubs are pretty poor.

It would be great to be able to say buy this aftermarket hub if you're suffering from reoccurring judder.

 

Well i have 71,800 miles on my 2008 G37S coupe and I installed new EBC slotted rotors and HAWK performance pads (forget which model) and I was worried about this since EVERY car I have ever owned has had this issue once I replaced the OEM rotors/pads. In hindsight I never knew about proper bedding procedures before I bought this car at 53,000 miles. I also replaced the brake lines with braided ones but this would have nothing to do with judder. I made sure this time to do a proper bedding on my new rotors and pads and these have been the best brakes Ive had on any car. I get some squeal but thats the performance pads for ya I have also changed my braking habits over the years and try not to ride the brakes too hard when coming to a stop.

As was mentioned by others on here, the main issue that causes rotors to "warp" is the corrosion buildup between the hub and rotor. I made sure the Infiniti dealer had the technician clean this off before he installed my rotors. That corrosion causes run-out which is what many people refer to as warping. Also, most manufacturers say the only way you should ever turn your rotors in when they are on the car with a brake lathe. I imagine this is to help compensate for any variances in the hub and rotor mating due to corrosion or other anomalies.