Help 2009 G37S Vert Brake job issues
2009 G37S Vert Brake job issues
Hello All,
(Moved from Convertible area) I think this is my 1st post and I hate it to be a problem post. First and foremost thank you to all who contribute to this great site!
So here's what I'm dealing with..
2009 Convertible Sport Model brake job (About 55k mi)
Went with Hawk HP Ceramic pads and turned OEM rotors
I thoroughly cleaned all the hub surfaces, rotor mating surfaces, & caliper channels. I greased the pad guides and the new pad back plate. After bolting everything back up I am getting a noticeable vibration at higher speed braking and the brakes feel pretty squishy. I am also getting a slight knocking noise once the car is coming to a complete stop.
All lines have been bled with no air in the line (Went through about 3/4 bottle of fluid while bleeding)
I took it to my local mechanic to take a look and he immediately said the rotor turning looked rushed and might have been done incorrectly due to some "webbing marks". He said the rotors are now garbage due to the thickness of the turned rotors!
I'm trying to get the auto parts store who turned the rotors to credit me the turning charge so I can buy new rotors. They agreed to eat the difference. Although they are only offering me "BrakeBest" products.
My questions:
- After bedding the new pads, are they reusable with new rotors?? If so is there a procedure to complete?
- With the G37, how much high temp grease/ and where are you applying it?
- When bleeding the lines, I have in the past torqued the rotor down with spacers and then bled that caliper to make sure the rotor is flat. Is there a "G" method that I'm missing?
I greatly appreciate any assistance the forum can provide!
Thanks,
Aaron
You can re-bed your pads to your new rotors, you're just adding pad material to your clean rotors. Be sure to follow the procedure for the particular pads you're using as every manufacturer has their approved method and can vary w/ different pads in their line.
I like CRC caliper grease
Just grease the side sliders, the backing plates and if you use shims a light coat under the shim and a heavier coat on top of the shim. Lightly coat any sliding pins too.
As far as bleeding, be sure to use all new fluid, don't just top it of w/ fresh fluid. Use the sequence for the Nissan FSB~passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front
I like CRC caliper grease
Just grease the side sliders, the backing plates and if you use shims a light coat under the shim and a heavier coat on top of the shim. Lightly coat any sliding pins too.
As far as bleeding, be sure to use all new fluid, don't just top it of w/ fresh fluid. Use the sequence for the Nissan FSB~passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front
You can re-bed your pads to your new rotors, you're just adding pad material to your clean rotors. Be sure to follow the procedure for the particular pads you're using as every manufacturer has their approved method and can vary w/ different pads in their line.
I like CRC caliper grease
Just grease the side sliders, the backing plates and if you use shims a light coat under the shim and a heavier coat on top of the shim. Lightly coat any sliding pins too.
As far as bleeding, be sure to use all new fluid, don't just top it of w/ fresh fluid. Use the sequence for the Nissan FSB~passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front
I like CRC caliper grease
Just grease the side sliders, the backing plates and if you use shims a light coat under the shim and a heavier coat on top of the shim. Lightly coat any sliding pins too.
As far as bleeding, be sure to use all new fluid, don't just top it of w/ fresh fluid. Use the sequence for the Nissan FSB~passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front
Hey thanks Blnewt, I greatly appreciate your input!!!
Couple questions after your response...
I purchased the Hawk Ceramic Pads which came with their own (mounted) plates but no shims. Were there supposed to be shims??? I actually swapped the back plates from the stock ones as they "looked" better maybe I should put the Hawk plates back on...
Also, is there a link to this FSB/ Bleeding you speak of?
Again I really appreciate your assistance!

Aaron
Hey thanks Blnewt, I greatly appreciate your input!!!
Couple questions after your response...
I purchased the Hawk Ceramic Pads which came with their own (mounted) plates but no shims. Were there supposed to be shims??? I actually swapped the back plates from the stock ones as they "looked" better maybe I should put the Hawk plates back on...
Also, is there a link to this FSB/ Bleeding you speak of?
Again I really appreciate your assistance!
Aaron
Couple questions after your response...
I purchased the Hawk Ceramic Pads which came with their own (mounted) plates but no shims. Were there supposed to be shims??? I actually swapped the back plates from the stock ones as they "looked" better maybe I should put the Hawk plates back on...
Also, is there a link to this FSB/ Bleeding you speak of?
Again I really appreciate your assistance!

Aaron
I meant FSM (Factory Service manual), you'll have to search through it as it's huge~
Index of /FSM/G37
The bleeding sequence is standard Nissan/Infiniti ABS procedure for the last several years across the model lines.
As far as the shims, not having used thos pads I can't say for sure but a lot of aftermarket pads don't use them. I'd go back to whatever plates that came w/ the pads.
G/L
Brad
Sounds like a rotor problem. There are too many variables that could have caused the rotors you took to get turned to get worse. If they were not mounted properly on the lathe, they will be cut wrong. Rotors are usually cut on a fast speed then on a slow speed. Dealers still cut rotors but they use the on car brake lathe, which cuts the rotor while still mounted to the cars hub. This is the better method.
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quick question.
2009 g37s with 60k miles so it was time to replace the brakes.
had a local mechanic replace my rotors and brakes today. After he finished he gave me back all of the old parts and i noticed after i got home that these were still on the old pads (see attached image). I believe they are the rear shims correct? i always thought that the old hardware was reused so i called back the mechanic and he said that they were not needed.
blnewt you said that you don't have to use them is there any harm in not using them?
any help is appreciated thanks!
side note i also got hawk pads however street 5.0. after the bed in the brakes still feel a little spongy.
2009 g37s with 60k miles so it was time to replace the brakes.
had a local mechanic replace my rotors and brakes today. After he finished he gave me back all of the old parts and i noticed after i got home that these were still on the old pads (see attached image). I believe they are the rear shims correct? i always thought that the old hardware was reused so i called back the mechanic and he said that they were not needed.
blnewt you said that you don't have to use them is there any harm in not using them?
any help is appreciated thanks!
side note i also got hawk pads however street 5.0. after the bed in the brakes still feel a little spongy.
Should be fine w/out shims on the Hawk pads, if they were OEM pads then you'd reuse them. As far as spongy brakes, might have some air trapped in the lines, I'd take it back and have them do another bleed. BTW, they did do a complete fluid flush right? If not, they should after 60k.
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