So I recently dropped my X Coupe on eibach springs. My rear camber is now -3.3. I ordered eibach pro alignment kit that comes with 2 toe bolts and 2 camber bolts Part #: 5.72265K. I've only heard of people here getting camber arms. Is installing just the camber bolts OK? Also, it seems like there are only washers on one side of the bolt, is that normal?

Thanks for any info!

 

did you get these installed yet? Do you have any pictures of the parts. Online ones dont show the exact product for reference. thanks

 

I believe those are just the SPC 72265s. Pretty sure SPC makes all the eibach alignment kits.

Specialty Products Company | SPC Alignment | The Automotive Alignment Leaders

These should supposedly work for adjusting both toe and camber but you get less camber adjustment than with the arms. Not sure why I haven't seen anyone else use these.

 

Actually those are just the toe bolts that will allow more toe adjustment. These typically come with the camber arms for a full camber & toe adjustment range.The slot that the bolt slides in need to be elongated to the inside-side of the slot. The washer that you describe goes into some notches, and the washer is mounted off-center, as you turn the bolt the concentric washer slides the bolt either inward or outward to adjust toe.

 

This was actually discussed here before:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...s-72265-a.html

I also contacted SPC directly and they confirmed that this kit (72265) does indeed adjust both camber and toe though the camber adjust is +/- 2 instead of +/- 3 for the arms. You need two 72265 kits per car. Still I have yet to see anyone use these here.

 

If you use just the bolts on both the toe and the camber you'll have 1/4" more range and that's certainly better than the minimal OEM setup. Might be a good plan for a mild drop, certainly a lot cheaper, and much better than running w/ no camber/toe help. Wouldn't hurt to give it a try halfshaft

 

I am actually considering them since SPC claims they are probably sufficient for smaller camber adjustment requirements due to moderate drops, but I'm also eyeing the newer heavy duty SPC arms: https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...ied-these.html

 

Well, whichever way you go you can be the pioneer for the rest of us
Just let us know how it turns out.

 

Certainly, I'll post here and share my experiences on whichever route I decide to go.

 

I am def interested in the outcome of this. I just got my alignment done today and rears were off 2.3 and 2.5. If this works I think I might go this route myself.

Thanks blnewt for sending me over here.

 

No problem, Halfshaft rekindled my interest in this particular setup. It's one of those things that may actually be the right solution for a lot of these guys w/ milder drops that don't want to add another $500 +.
And any help is better than leaving it to just maxed out OEM adjusters.

 

I'm in the process of installing the "Bolt-only" rear alignment kit. It uses the same eccentric bolts for the camber and for toe, so 4 bolts in total for the kit. I've already elongated the slot on the toe arm. This is the arm that connects the inner bolt to the spring cup. No problem slotting it.

Tomorrow, I'll be slotting the camber arm. I'm worried about getting to the bolt hole that is farthest forward. The rearward facing bolt hole is simple to get to - straight from behind, easy. But the forward facing bolt hole doesn't have any clearance to fit a grinder in front of it. (Consider that you have to drop the rear sway bar just to remove the bolt.)

So my plan is to first elongate the rearward facing hole. Then run a longer bit and reach *through* the newly elongated rearward facing hole to access the frontward facing hole. I expect it to be about as much fun as getting shot in the face. I'll keep you guys updated.

 

For elongating the toe slot I used the dremel, but rather than using the grinding bit I used a thin metal cut-off wafer. This worked well and the real bonus is I could use the dremel perpendicular to the slot, so much easier access. Might be a good way to get to your camber slot
At any rate, look forward to your update w/ alignment info,

 

Thanks! I'lll keep that in mind, and bring my Dremel as a plan B.

 

Alright folks! I got the bolts in. This is what I've concluded...

Slotting the camber arm is not nearly as bad as I was expecting. Either the metal for that bracket is softer, or I was more comfortable with the process after slotting the toe bolts, that it seemed easier. I ended up slotting the rearmost hole first, and then reaching through that hole to slot the hole in front. If you can do the toe bolts, you can do these. The only thing I would suggest is to have good lighting for that hole closest to the front. If you use a scribe or a silver pencil, it will be hard to see, so what I did was tape up the templates on the holes and grind away. No worries if you destroy the templates, as these two holes (R/L) will be the last ones you'll need the templates for anyways. Install took less than an hour. The prep and strategy took more time than the actual cutting. And then there was the removal of the sway bar brackets, and dropping the actual arm, but that is normal bolt-on stuff, not difficult, but add 30 mins for that anyway.

As far as the adjustment range - went into this project with my rears at -3.4 degrees camber, and 0 toe (from an NTB alignment). After installing the bolts, I strung the car up and did the alignment myself, so I don't have a printout. It's pretty simple, but tedious, and very time consuming if you don't know what you're doing. But I've been doing string alignments on racecars, and my personal cars for the last 10 years, so I'm used to it. I wanted to see how much these camber bolts can correct excessive camber/toe, so I first set up all the bolts at their extreme adjustment point. The result: -1.2 camber and around 1/2 toe out. Great! So I kept the rear camber where it was, at -1.2 on each side, and zeroed the toe, and that's where we are now. I'll keep playing with the camber, but considering we're going into winter, I'm not going to be cornering hard enough to require a lot of neg camber, nor will the tires grip enough to require a high neg camber.

Conclusion: if you lower your car with a mild drop within the common range of lowering springs (they all seem to be between -1.2" to -1.5" drop), these bolts would be plenty. With summer tires, and in dry conditions, I'd guess this car would be happy at -2 to -2.25 degrees of camber in the rear. Any more and you'll start understeering, and less would make it hard to hook up mid/late corner. These bolts would easily get that for you, and it would only cost you $60, instead of ~$500 like some people are spending on a whole arm kit. Oh, and it should be noted that the fronts are at -1.5 negative camber with a tiny bit if toe in, but pretty much zero toe. So these values that I'm throwing up as suggested rear camber values are to balance the fixed data point that the front ended up as after lowering.

The other reason why I wanted to go this route, other than price, is because I wanted to keep the stock bushings. I have a lot of experience with urethane and spherical bushings and in my opinion, they do NOT belong on a daily driver. They are great to eliminate the slop on a race car, but on a street car, they need to be lubed, and as soon as they see normal elements like rain, salt, even dirt, the lube breaks down or dries up, and they start making a TON of noise. So unless you want to be under your car frequently, I'd recommend just using rubber bushings. All of the aftermarket arms use either urethane or spherical bushings, so this was my only choice once I considered that factor.

Thanks for reading, hope this helps someone in the future!

Edit: Last thing to note, this was to correct the drop from Swift springs on a coupe. No kit on the front, just corrected the toe; camber/toe bolts on the rear; the rest of the suspension is stock. Total: $60 + elbow grease.