GT-R Brake Rotor Project
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Joined: Feb 2014
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GT-R Brake Rotor Project
First off, let me say, I am not 100% sure I am going to complete this project. Part of the reason I am curious to see what you all have to say.
I mocked up some GT-R rotors on my car. I can have brackets made to make the caliper fit the rotor - that isn't an issue. The problem comes in for my wheels. I currently have some 18" Volk GT-Ns I go to the track on. They have some sticky tires and if I am not headed to the track, I just roll around on the 19's. The rotor is a good 1/4" bigger in diameter meaning I would have to run the 19's. I am not too sure I want to pay $$ for 19" sticky tires. What do you guys think?
My reasoning for needing different rotors is heat. I use Carbotech XP10 brake pads and the last track day I went to, I managed to boil my ATE Superblue fluid (going to swap to RBF600 soon) and turned my caliper a golden color due to heat (see pictures below). I don't want to throw my brake balance off, so I am sure I will have to get a proportioning valve.
My other option is a G37/370z specific 2-piece floating rotor. This option is looking better and better every time.
Pictures for fun!
I mocked up some GT-R rotors on my car. I can have brackets made to make the caliper fit the rotor - that isn't an issue. The problem comes in for my wheels. I currently have some 18" Volk GT-Ns I go to the track on. They have some sticky tires and if I am not headed to the track, I just roll around on the 19's. The rotor is a good 1/4" bigger in diameter meaning I would have to run the 19's. I am not too sure I want to pay $$ for 19" sticky tires. What do you guys think?
My reasoning for needing different rotors is heat. I use Carbotech XP10 brake pads and the last track day I went to, I managed to boil my ATE Superblue fluid (going to swap to RBF600 soon) and turned my caliper a golden color due to heat (see pictures below). I don't want to throw my brake balance off, so I am sure I will have to get a proportioning valve.
My other option is a G37/370z specific 2-piece floating rotor. This option is looking better and better every time.
Pictures for fun!
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 469
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From: GTA & K/W, Ontario
I am not convinced upgrading to GT-R rotors will solve the heat problems. I imagine the GT-R rotors have directional vanes for improved cooling over our OEM brakes, but you still don't have a lot of fresh air coming in. The heat capacity of the larger GT-R rotors may be better than other 2 piece G/Z options. You may be able to extend the time until you boil your fluid, but adding cooling is probably your best bet.
I think the following would probably be a more complete solution:
-2 piece rotors (G/Z specific)
-Brake cooling ducts
-Good fluid (you already mention this)
-SS lines
-Titanium shims behind the pads, these should reduce how much heat is transferred to the fluid as titanium is a poor conductor of heat.
I think the following would probably be a more complete solution:
-2 piece rotors (G/Z specific)
-Brake cooling ducts
-Good fluid (you already mention this)
-SS lines
-Titanium shims behind the pads, these should reduce how much heat is transferred to the fluid as titanium is a poor conductor of heat.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 18
Likes: 3
I am not convinced upgrading to GT-R rotors will solve the heat problems. I imagine the GT-R rotors have directional vanes for improved cooling over our OEM brakes, but you still don't have a lot of fresh air coming in. The heat capacity of the larger GT-R rotors may be better than other 2 piece G/Z options. You may be able to extend the time until you boil your fluid, but adding cooling is probably your best bet.
I think the following would probably be a more complete solution:
-2 piece rotors (G/Z specific)
-Brake cooling ducts
-Good fluid (you already mention this)
-SS lines
-Titanium shims behind the pads, these should reduce how much heat is transferred to the fluid as titanium is a poor conductor of heat.
I think the following would probably be a more complete solution:
-2 piece rotors (G/Z specific)
-Brake cooling ducts
-Good fluid (you already mention this)
-SS lines
-Titanium shims behind the pads, these should reduce how much heat is transferred to the fluid as titanium is a poor conductor of heat.
So far, I am planning on running a more aggressive pad (XP12s or DTC70s), ducting, SS lines, and RBF600. I was mainly focused on the rotor for this thread.
I will look into the shim idea.
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Oct 4, 2015 01:33 PM