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Need feedback on my camber after Eibach ProKit install...

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Old Apr 7, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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Sarcastik
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From: Oakland, Ca
Need feedback on my camber after Eibach ProKit install...

I recently had an Eibach ProKit installed on my Sedan. I LOVE the look and I LOVE the ride quality and handling I don't need feedback on and that. What I need feedback on is more the tech specs that came out after they were installed. I have wide wheels that needed to clear BBK before the drop so the tires actually poked past the fenders before the drop. Now they sit flush, but thats due to a visible 3 degrees of camber.

I asked the shop guy if this would effect tire wear and he said it should only reduce tire wear by 10%, but that seems conservative. Is it really ok to run this sort of camber on my DD and if so what is a realistic figure of how much it will effect tire wear? Is there anything I keep an eye out for to tell me if my tires are wearing properly?

Here are some before and after pics along with the alignment report:

BEFORE:


AFTER:


REPORT:
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Old Apr 7, 2013 | 07:47 PM
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Skyline6mt
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Honestly you should be fine. Remember that our cars have a big=t of camber from factory so it shouldn't be too big of a deal. If you feel like your tires are starting to wear too quickly then look into some correction but one thing I've noticed on eibachs is you actually get more of a performance benifit just from the camber than you do from the drop or spring rate

looks great btw
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Old Apr 7, 2013 | 07:55 PM
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Get that left camber in line w/ your right and you'll be alright, 3.0 is pretty high. If your right tire fits inside the fender well at -2 degrees your left one should too. Are you running stock arms, and are they maxed out? If so you should get the rear arms and toe kit since you're toe (which is excellent right now) might get out of range when you readjust your left camber.
Shoot for an even -2 degrees would be a good goal since it looks like you really can't get your camber in spec w/out fender issues.
BTW, nice stance & rims
What are your wheel specs BTW?
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Old Apr 7, 2013 | 08:38 PM
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From: Oakland, Ca
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah I actually asked him about why the camber wasn't identical on both sides and it said it wasn't uncommon and shouldn't be an issue. A little side bar that I failed to mention is that he told me from the jump the best he would be able to do was 2.5 degrees in the rear because I have 2 12 inch kickers and box in my car that takes up nearly the entire trunk. I love the way it sounds and it actually causes the back end to drop down further than it would normally which actually works out fine because ProKits drop the front more than the back so it actually evens everything out, but that explains why the shop told me that I would have more camber than I would without the stereo.

That being said are there any neg effects from running different camber on each side? Also does 10% decrease in tire life sound accurate? Is it worth flipping them at some point for just an extra 10%? Lastly is anyone else have this kind of camber on their own DD that could provide some input regarding their experience?

Thanks!

Oh wheels specs 20x9 and 20x10 thats all I know actually...lol
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Old Apr 7, 2013 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Sarcastik
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah I actually asked him about why the camber wasn't identical on both sides and it said it wasn't uncommon and shouldn't be an issue.

That being said are there any neg effects from running different camber on each side? Also does 10% decrease in tire life sound accurate? Is it worth flipping them at some point for just an extra 10%? Lastly is anyone else have this kind of camber on their own DD that could provide some input regarding their experience?

Thanks!

Oh wheels specs 20x9 and 20x10 thats all I know actually...lol


Those kind of comments make me run not walk away from those shade tree mechanics.
From the looks of it (before and after, he made no attempt at adjusting rear camber.
Camber moves with toe adjustment, that explains the minor change.

With more caster on the right, and more neg camber on the left, your car should be pulling left pretty good, and unstable at high speed.
The caster is pushing the front of your car to the left, and rear camber is pushing the rear to the right.

As mentioned above, get the left rear to -2 camber. Then the caster makes up for road crown.

Im ****, and bought arms, and lockouts for the rear, and arms for the front to be at factory specs.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 06:35 PM
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^I think most of us only looked at the camber specs lol. Hadn't even looked at caster but thats a pretty big difference left to right.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 11:57 PM
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From: Oakland, Ca
I decided to take a few days to drive the car before I called took anyones advice and talked to the shop. The problem is the car has never driven better. Compared to my stock suspension it just stiff enough without being uncomfortable. I can my turns feel tighter and more controlled and the car drives a holds a straight line without even having to have my hands on the wheel. I think my favorite part of all is that the wheels are just slightly tucked and flush with the fenders, but I haven't any issues with bottoming out or scraping.

I think this height it the perfect compromise of form and function. That doesn't mean that its a good alignment. Just because it drives well really doesn't matter if I wearing out my tires too fast or causing perminent damage anything in the suspension, but if I'm really only loosing 10% of tire life then I'm willing to live with it.
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