Spacer Problem...
Mine came right out. But when I installed, I coated the backside of the spacer and the edge of the ring with very thin coat of high temp grease.
I will just stick with old school simple words like that it was "informative and creative". 
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 120
Likes: 4
From: NE Ohio
Mine came out relatively easily. I had vibration with both aftermarket and OEM wheels with the Ichiba V2. I think the hubcentric ring just does not protrude enough. With the fix, no more vibration! There is also no need to keep replacing the wire--it still serves it's purpose of sticking the ring out a mm even after multiple takeoffs.
Finally got around to trying this today. My local Home Depot didn't have #10 copper wire, so I went with two turns of 16 gauge. I only did the fronts, and amazingly it worked like a charm!!
However, it was a complete biatch to get the rings out. I had to use WD-40 and let it sit for a few minutes before I could wiggle those suckers out, and the pliers kind of butchered the rings. I even had to file off some of the corrosion from the inside of the wheel hub before the rings would sit flush. In the end, this was the solution to my vibration problem! Thanks!!!
However, it was a complete biatch to get the rings out. I had to use WD-40 and let it sit for a few minutes before I could wiggle those suckers out, and the pliers kind of butchered the rings. I even had to file off some of the corrosion from the inside of the wheel hub before the rings would sit flush. In the end, this was the solution to my vibration problem! Thanks!!!
Yesterday I trimmed the rear wheel liner and bumper bracket and put the DIY #10 crush ring in the rear wheels. Took it down the road and not much change, but I only had a little bit starting at 50-70 mph. I was getting tired of it and about ready to take them off altogether, but like the look.
Today, put the #10 crush rings in the front wheels. Also, I tightened and torgued all the wheels in cross-pattern before setting the car down off the jack. Normally I tighten before lowering, but decided to torque them as well to make sure the crush ring was seating as evenly as possible.
Took it down the road.....could not believe it....smooth as glass.
I too had a little corrosion but not too bad. My rings came out real easy since I had greased the contact areas with high temp grease. Greased them up a bit again including where the wheel contacts the spacer.
Today, put the #10 crush rings in the front wheels. Also, I tightened and torgued all the wheels in cross-pattern before setting the car down off the jack. Normally I tighten before lowering, but decided to torque them as well to make sure the crush ring was seating as evenly as possible.
Took it down the road.....could not believe it....smooth as glass.
I too had a little corrosion but not too bad. My rings came out real easy since I had greased the contact areas with high temp grease. Greased them up a bit again including where the wheel contacts the spacer.
Finally got around to trying this today. My local Home Depot didn't have #10 copper wire, so I went with two turns of 16 gauge. I only did the fronts, and amazingly it worked like a charm!!
However, it was a complete biatch to get the rings out. I had to use WD-40 and let it sit for a few minutes before I could wiggle those suckers out, and the pliers kind of butchered the rings. I even had to file off some of the corrosion from the inside of the wheel hub before the rings would sit flush. In the end, this was the solution to my vibration problem! Thanks!!!
However, it was a complete biatch to get the rings out. I had to use WD-40 and let it sit for a few minutes before I could wiggle those suckers out, and the pliers kind of butchered the rings. I even had to file off some of the corrosion from the inside of the wheel hub before the rings would sit flush. In the end, this was the solution to my vibration problem! Thanks!!!
