not stable?
not stable?
Hey guys i have a question.
My car doesn't seem to handle so good
it doesnt feel stable on a bumpy or not on a straight road
it pulls really hard to the left or to the right and it pissing me off!
anyone know what it could be?
My car doesn't seem to handle so good
it doesnt feel stable on a bumpy or not on a straight road
it pulls really hard to the left or to the right and it pissing me off!
anyone know what it could be?
I have noticed that my car does the same thing on roads that have noticeable tire ruts pressed into the asphalt. If the road is completely flat (like expressways), then it rides perfectly fine. But if the roads are older and the tiretracks are pressed into the asphalt, the car has a definite tendency to ride in those tracks whether you want to or not.
All cars do it, but my G seems to do it worse than any other car I have owned.
All cars do it, but my G seems to do it worse than any other car I have owned.
Have your alignment checked. Ask the dealer to get the specs closest to the "nominal" values as possible. If they can't get the exact "nominal" values, ask them to get as close as possible, while being on the "minimum" side of "nominal".
What is sometimes referred to as "wander" is, many times, caused by a little too much toe out. ("Tramlining" or "trammeling" is the tendency to follow ruts in a road surface.) Many autocrossers, time trialers and magazine reviewers complained the original FM chassis specs resulted in a slight turn-in hesitancy. Nissan cured this by reducing the toe-in.
When the cars are shipped to the U.S., sometimes the shipper will tie down the suspension tighter than what Nissan specifies. This can result in the car being delivered with a little toe-out, causing the instability you complain of. It sometimes causes the car to dart around on certain road surfaces.
Many times a good alignment can cure this. If your dealer is not a good one, the dealer may only get the car within specs, meaning all alignment readings are within the minimum to maximum ranges, and send you on your way. If your dealer tells you they can not get as close to "nominal" as you want with all differences being toward "minimum" (like mine), then find a good alignment shop who will take the time to do this for you.
What is sometimes referred to as "wander" is, many times, caused by a little too much toe out. ("Tramlining" or "trammeling" is the tendency to follow ruts in a road surface.) Many autocrossers, time trialers and magazine reviewers complained the original FM chassis specs resulted in a slight turn-in hesitancy. Nissan cured this by reducing the toe-in.
When the cars are shipped to the U.S., sometimes the shipper will tie down the suspension tighter than what Nissan specifies. This can result in the car being delivered with a little toe-out, causing the instability you complain of. It sometimes causes the car to dart around on certain road surfaces.
Many times a good alignment can cure this. If your dealer is not a good one, the dealer may only get the car within specs, meaning all alignment readings are within the minimum to maximum ranges, and send you on your way. If your dealer tells you they can not get as close to "nominal" as you want with all differences being toward "minimum" (like mine), then find a good alignment shop who will take the time to do this for you.
Last edited by notalk; Dec 29, 2008 at 01:13 PM.
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I'd like to add to notalks alignment post. As he said, some shops or service departments will just do the minimum to get things in spec. A real good shop will dial in the specs to exactly what you want them (if possible). This allows you to really dial in your setup. For an example, I lowered another vehicle I have and when I went to get the alignment done, I had them add 0.2 degrees of tow out* to the right compaired to the left which for this particular vehicle made it track dead nuts straight. I was told to do this by many people that experimented before me and it worked like a champ.
* - I actually don't remember the exact spec or value.
* - I actually don't remember the exact spec or value.
Have your alignment checked. Ask the dealer to get the specs closest to the "nominal" values as possible. If they can't get the exact "nominal" values, ask them to get as close as possible, while being on the "minimum" side of "nominal".
What is sometimes referred to as "wander" is, many times, caused by a little too much toe out. ("Trammeling" is the tendency to follow ruts in a road surface.) Many autocrossers, time trialers and magazine reviewers complained the original FM chassis specs resulting in a slight turn-in hesitancy. Nissan cured this by reducing the toe-in.
When the cars are shipped to the U.S., sometimes the shipper will tie down the suspension tighter than what Nissan specifies. This can result in the car being delivered with a little toe-out, causing the instability you complain of. It sometimes causes the car to dart around on certain road surfaces.
Many times a good alignment can cure this. If your dealer is not a good one, the dealer may only get the car within specs, meaning all alignment readings are within the minimum to maximum ranges, and send you on your way. If your dealer tells you they can not get as close to "nominal" as you want with all differences being toward "minimum" (like mine), then find a good alignment shop who will take the time to do this for you.
What is sometimes referred to as "wander" is, many times, caused by a little too much toe out. ("Trammeling" is the tendency to follow ruts in a road surface.) Many autocrossers, time trialers and magazine reviewers complained the original FM chassis specs resulting in a slight turn-in hesitancy. Nissan cured this by reducing the toe-in.
When the cars are shipped to the U.S., sometimes the shipper will tie down the suspension tighter than what Nissan specifies. This can result in the car being delivered with a little toe-out, causing the instability you complain of. It sometimes causes the car to dart around on certain road surfaces.
Many times a good alignment can cure this. If your dealer is not a good one, the dealer may only get the car within specs, meaning all alignment readings are within the minimum to maximum ranges, and send you on your way. If your dealer tells you they can not get as close to "nominal" as you want with all differences being toward "minimum" (like mine), then find a good alignment shop who will take the time to do this for you.
I'd like to add to notalks alignment post. As he said, some shops or service departments will just do the minimum to get things in spec. A real good shop will dial in the specs to exactly what you want them (if possible). This allows you to really dial in your setup. For an example, I lowered another vehicle I have and when I went to get the alignment done, I had them add 0.2 degrees of tow out* to the right compaired to the left which for this particular vehicle made it track dead nuts straight. I was told to do this by many people that experimented before me and it worked like a champ.
* - I actually don't remember the exact spec or value.
* - I actually don't remember the exact spec or value.
You think this car is bad. My RX8 will actively seek out any groove in the road, and then continue to follow it, against my better judgement. I feel like Tom Cruise in Minority Reports. Put on cruise control and I practically have an AutoPilot.
PS. Yes, i have an RX8, but I'm also a proud new owner of a G37
PS. Yes, i have an RX8, but I'm also a proud new owner of a G37
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