Replacing all the OEM calipers with pretty red powdercoated ones (at the same time doing stainless lines, rotors, and pads). Other than unplugging the ABS valve and the bleed order (RR, LF, LR, LF) anything I should be aware of and/or will make life easier?

Unfortunately, I'll be bleeding with an assistant and not with a pressure bleeder. Mine got 'surplused' in some move or another. Any tips on bleeding the dual bleeders on the fronts?

 

You honestly don't even need an assistant. A pop bottle, or some other empty container, a little brake fluid in the bottom, and a piece of clear hose from the bleeder to the fluid in the bottle. Open bleeder, pump several times, check fluid, repeat until you see nice clear fluid in the hose.

 

I had no issues doing a two person bleed with the dual bleeders. Just moved from inside to outside and it was fine.

 

I've always done the 2-person pump-hold-open-close-pedal up-refill-repeat to get air out of the system. So I can just do one side of the Akebono caliper at a time? That sounds much easier than trying to bleed multiple points simultaneously.

I did have a sprayer-based pressure bleeder (and machined cap) for my RX7s. I think when I collated the race shop stall into stuff I could reasonable move and store it was either tossed or gifted to someone else - 14 years ago so :shrug: Hopefully I won't be completely flushing fluid now often enough to need it. With the race car, we flushed before and after the season alternating between ATE 200 and super blue, and bled before every track weekend.

I recall reading about the Porsche guys doing a gravity bleed - attached 3' hoses to the bleeder valves, open all of them, tape the hoses vertically to the sides of the car and leave overnight. I'm imagining they all had airconditioned garages or toterhome trailers to do so in, not the Southeast summer humidity.

 

Yup one side of the caliper at a time. Inside, outside, and move on to the next caliper. Never had considered doing both bleeders simultaneously.


Basically just followed Frank’s video minus pressurizing the system of course.

 

Follow up:

Did the pump-till clear, then pump-hold-open-close-up rotation per the video and FSM bleeding order. For good measure, started the car and re-bled with brake booster helping, but that was just a pump-hold-bleed routine. Went around the car 4 times before the pedal felt like it should and still need to bed the pads in.

FWIW, the car does weird things with the ABS servo unplugged - like not want to turn off. All good once reconnected, though.

My notes on bleeding: the front caliper bleeder screws have such a thin hex so close to the caliper body that they were a bitch to manipulate. Just the normal manufactured rounding on my box wrenches was enough to make me have minimal grip - I took a cheap HF 11mm box and put it on the belt sander so it was sharp-edged on the bottom. The rears had no such issues.

 

since when do the rear have two bleeders, The Fak!

 

Can see them here, bottom of the picture:



Even if you were being snarky... PICS! lol.

 

It's a fixed caliper, one bleeder for each side it appears.

I just looked at some motorcycle fixed calipers. Looks like those use a single bleeder for both. I suppose one does the bleeder furthest from the brake line first.

from a 2012-2015 zx14

 

I'm not finding good pics of them, but the FC3S T2 and FD3S RX-7 calipers are fixed 4-pots and have only a single bleeder. I think it depends entirely on the whims of the engineer involved.

 

Looks like my rears inner pistons did not get bled