New Brakes and Mechanic Advice
#1
New Brakes and Mechanic Advice
I have a 2012 G37S 6MT Sedan RWD with Stillen lowering springs and stabilizer. The wheels are 19x8.5/19x9.5 SSR GTV03 which fit perfectly over the big brakes (14F/13.8R).
Car now has about 36K and the pads and rotors are shot. I am considering upgrading them. Any suggestions? I've been looking at these: www.carid.com/powerstop/1-click-brake-kit.html, but I am open to suggestions.
My main preference is performance: I'm fine with wear and dust. I just need the car to stop.
Also, any suggestions for a good Infiniti mechanic in the NYC/Westchester Area? I've been taking it to the dealer in Long Island, and they've been good with general maintenance, but if anyone knows someone else, I'd love to hear who you use.
Car now has about 36K and the pads and rotors are shot. I am considering upgrading them. Any suggestions? I've been looking at these: www.carid.com/powerstop/1-click-brake-kit.html, but I am open to suggestions.
My main preference is performance: I'm fine with wear and dust. I just need the car to stop.
Also, any suggestions for a good Infiniti mechanic in the NYC/Westchester Area? I've been taking it to the dealer in Long Island, and they've been good with general maintenance, but if anyone knows someone else, I'd love to hear who you use.
#3
The rotors got a bit warped a few times so the dealer grinded them down, so now they are between 2mm and 3mm. Also last inspection the mechanic said they are almost done.
#4
Super Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Modern rotors rarely warp. What causes the pulsation is uneven pad deposits on the rotors. Usually caused by many gentle stops and sitting with the brake pedal pressed on hot rotors.
Several consecutive hard stops usually removes the deposits. Cost : a dollar's worth of gasoline.
Several consecutive hard stops usually removes the deposits. Cost : a dollar's worth of gasoline.
#5
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
Modern rotors rarely warp. What causes the pulsation is uneven pad deposits on the rotors. Usually caused by many gentle stops and sitting with the brake pedal pressed on hot rotors.
Several consecutive hard stops usually removes the deposits. Cost : a dollar's worth of gasoline.
Several consecutive hard stops usually removes the deposits. Cost : a dollar's worth of gasoline.
easier to avoid in a manual
#6
If you want increased performance you will probably have to spend more money. THMotorsports has the DBA 4000 T3s for about 500 dollars an axle. Lots of people like the Hawk performance pads--they have a range of performance/dust/noise options.
If you are on a budget you may want to check out Stoptech's axle packs. You can get those in slotted and if their marketing material is correct they are an upgrade over OEM and even everyone's favorite Centric premium blanks.
If you are on a budget you may want to check out Stoptech's axle packs. You can get those in slotted and if their marketing material is correct they are an upgrade over OEM and even everyone's favorite Centric premium blanks.
#7
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
Not familiar w/ Stillen lowering springs, are these pretty mild or aggressive?
As far as brakes, probably best bang for the buck would be Centric premium blank rotors w/ Stoptech Sport Pads or Hawk HPS 5.0 pads if you want good bite and not concerned w/ pad dust. Also a full flush w/ Synthetic Dot4 fluid should be on your menu too
As far as brakes, probably best bang for the buck would be Centric premium blank rotors w/ Stoptech Sport Pads or Hawk HPS 5.0 pads if you want good bite and not concerned w/ pad dust. Also a full flush w/ Synthetic Dot4 fluid should be on your menu too
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