Pistons
#1
Pistons
I haven't been able to find the count on caliper pistons for the basic brakes. Is it two piston front, one piston rear? Or is it one and one?
I am thinking about keeping the regular brakes and maybe upgrading the rotors to slotted or even drilled and slotted.
I know the rotor dimensions on both sets, but just have this one question left.
Thanks for any help.
Shane D
I am thinking about keeping the regular brakes and maybe upgrading the rotors to slotted or even drilled and slotted.
I know the rotor dimensions on both sets, but just have this one question left.
Thanks for any help.
Shane D
#4
Super Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Regular brakes are really good for this car IMO. The BBK Akebonos look great but only come into play for tracking.
In theory, Drilled keeps the rotors cool while slotted keeps the pads nice and even. At the same time, removing material also weakens it. Personally, I'd only go slotted on a DD to keep the pads nice and smooth.
2 piston for front, 1 piston in the rear for regular brakes.
Front:
More Information for POWER STOP KCOE112B
Rear:
More Information for POWER STOP KCOE179A
In theory, Drilled keeps the rotors cool while slotted keeps the pads nice and even. At the same time, removing material also weakens it. Personally, I'd only go slotted on a DD to keep the pads nice and smooth.
2 piston for front, 1 piston in the rear for regular brakes.
Front:
More Information for POWER STOP KCOE112B
Rear:
More Information for POWER STOP KCOE179A
#5
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
Drilled rotors = less surface area for pad contact.
Drilled rotors = less mass, reduced ability to act as a heat soak
It might cool more quickly, but the downsides of reduced surface area for pad contact and reduced mass for heat dissipation outweigh any cooling benefit.
Further, the vast majority of drilled-slotted rotors are going to be sourced from China, vs OEM blanks which last I checked at the Nissan dealership, were made in Japan/USA. I'll take the QC of the latter countries of origin.
#7
Super Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Drilled disks only make sense if you're racing and need the cooling and slightly lighter weight. Few shops can turn drilled or slotted rotors. And, unless both sides of each hole are chamfered on both faces, you greatly increase the chance of cracking at these stress risers. Racers live with these risks and inspect these every race and replace as necessary.
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#9
Super Moderator
iTrader: (2)
For the life of me I can't remember. I was going to agree with you but checked just in case and saw the rock auto ones for the non-sport.....Need someone to confirm.
Edit: Here is another picture, #4
https://www.myg37.com/forums/private...on-brakes.html
Single cylinder in the middle of the front most set?
Edit: Here is another picture, #4
https://www.myg37.com/forums/private...on-brakes.html
Single cylinder in the middle of the front most set?
Last edited by RMB5190; 02-28-2018 at 01:41 PM.
#11
Thanks for all the replies guys! I started this thread and then abandoned it. Every time I log on there is so much I want to read that I get sidetracked.
2 up front and 1 out back sounds pretty good for a DD with some spirited driving tossed in. Of course more in the summer.
As it is, the brake upgrade is on the list for next year.
Right now Phase I (next month) is CAI, catback and maybe a tune.
Phase II (Fallish) is coil overs, sway bars and maybe some polyurethane goodies.
Phase III (next spring) is rims, tires and maybe brakes.
Thanks for the info!
Shane D
2 up front and 1 out back sounds pretty good for a DD with some spirited driving tossed in. Of course more in the summer.
As it is, the brake upgrade is on the list for next year.
Right now Phase I (next month) is CAI, catback and maybe a tune.
Phase II (Fallish) is coil overs, sway bars and maybe some polyurethane goodies.
Phase III (next spring) is rims, tires and maybe brakes.
Thanks for the info!
Shane D
Last edited by Shane D; 03-10-2018 at 01:05 PM.
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