The hub flanges are not that strong. When I was attempting to pull a rear hub off it’s frozen axle spline using a 3 pronged puller, you could see the distortion in the hub flange. FYI the only way I got the rear hub free was to loosen the nut and drive around for awhile (cotter pin still in). Still took some pounding on the axle but it broke free.
Back to the judder. The mild warping caused by lug nut torque results in uneven pad deposits, causing judder. Pretty much all rotors come from China these days, including the centric cryo rotors and the Bosch quietcast rotors. Same judder with both.

 

I was getting jitter/shaking for a long time.
I replaced both rotors and pads and my issue was cleared up.

Original rotors and pads from 2011. The pad actually had a decent amount of pad left.

 

The hubs aren't supposed to see that kind of force. They are designed to be clamped to the wheel by five lugs with relatively even torque.

 

I just got my G37 3 weeks ago and the dealer had new rotors and pads put in for me. The shaking and judder was very bad, like violently even when going around 35-45 mph. I tried to bed the brakes myself by going to 40ish and hitting the brakes and doing this around 10 times. 3 weeks later, currently, there is still judder when braking and sometimes it still shakes. Do I need to try bedding them again?

 

Try a full alignment. Especially the rear.
The brake judder on my sedan was cured after a proper REAR alignment.
The rear toe in alignment was influencing the front somehow...
After a full alignment, the judder is completely gone.
before that, i tried everything... new rotors, new pads, new slide pins, machining the rotors with on car brake lathe (this one cured the judder only for few months)...

 

Do you mean a wheel balance? Or alignment?