Yes, although it hasn't been aligned yet there is a noticeable difference in camber and it seems a bit higher from before with the worn units.

 

I took the car in for the alignment today after having the suspension and lower control arms replaced.

These are the numbers which don't seem uniform to me and I am not sure of the proper specs anyway.

Front:
Camber Left -1.8 Right -2.2

Castor Left 4.8 Right 4.5

Toe Left .05 Right .11

Rear:
Camber -2.0 -2.0

Toe .23 -0.06

Does that make sense at all? I may have gotten a bad printout.

 

What units are used for toe? Degrees, millimeters or inches? Your caster looks a little low but you can't do anything about without UCAs. Some will say your rear camber is too high but I run -2 degrees with stock height and tire wear is fine.

 

I believe it is degrees. All four tires prior to this were noticeably worn on the inside walls while middle/outer tread, not so much.

 

Definite toe issue. The higher your camber, the worse damage too much toe causes.

 

Should I be ok with the provided specs?

 

Do you have your alignment sheet? It should list the high and low end spec range for all the parameters. I don't have mine handy but that rear left toe seems quite high.

 

Brad's right. That rear toe would cause a thrust issue. You want the two tires to have similar toe values. I think the owner's manual has alignment specs.

 

Alright, so I just got new a/s tires(DWS06) and had the car re-aligned and it is still a farken mess.

I am thinking the steering wheel is off center somehow or there is play in gear. After the first two alignments prior to these new tires. I thought the wheel was off center.

I made sure at this install to bring that steering rack alignment up to the tech. After roadtest if I put the wheel on center, she pulls right, align maybe 2 degrees right and it straightens out a bit.
I am at my wits end brought it back and they said all specs are aligned within spec.

What can I try? I have just spent almost 3k between suspension and tires and this fricker doesn't drive straight. Oh an there is wobble/vibration at low speed. (Not in the rack, but maybe wheels)

 

I am thinking of doing some suspension upgrades before mine gets near the point when you should (171k).

I need to replace the Diff bushings. I wonder if I should just buy a sub frame from Z1, but that would be about 1k with the install. I could just go with the additions that they have for the subframe, but I don't know how thrashed the old subframe bushings are.

I also want to do at least bushings and I am looking at the Tein Street Basis Coilovers. Nothing too crazy. Since it is for the street, want to let it have some give.

I am also getting tires soon. There aren't too many Summer tires in the price I want to pay $150-$180 a tire, plus the inability to rotate tells me that summer tires might last 2 yrs if I am lucky. Really want to go with something like the AS3+ or P Zero AS3. I am also looking at a cooper if I can get a deal on it buy 2 get 2 at pep boys this Friday.. I figure I might get another year with 96% of the grip of Summer treads. It does get cold by the beach. If I went with summer, I would probably get the Firestones, they are 600 otd for 4 from a local store.

Any recommendations for tight, not bouncy?

 

Hi, I wanted to ask how your front lower control arms were holding up as I'm looking to replace my OEM ones with either Mevotech or Moog parts.