Victory

I've never used cryo rotors, but in my experience most instances of brake judder have nothing to do with heat warping, which is what cryogenic treatment purports to solve. I don't have issues with judder either, but i also scour my hubs when i do my brakes and properly torque the lugs.

KAHBOOM

iTrader: (4)

My experience has been that judder was caused by hot spotting- which many refer to as heat warping- resulting in less friction on the spots that are the hottest and/or where it resulted in unevenly deposited pad material on the rotors which both has given me that judder feel.

In my case one or both has been the cause most of the time. Its been a while and rotors are better built now. But since I went with the cryo rotors I've never experienced that issue . I have not had to have them "resurfaced" even once to address brake judder over the past 8 years or so of using them.

It also feels like there is much less fade generally when driving hard.

Hilton Wood

thx @blnewt, I've updated my post to reflect this. Lucky for me, the front pads had very little wear and looks like they will hold up much longer.

TinsleyC

I think this is an obvious YES, but will the below parts list fit my 2009 G37 Sedan Journey?

I bought my 2009 new and I put low miles on it, now at 70K after 8 years. I've had to have the OEM rotors turned three times due to judder and that seems excessive to me. All work was done at dealership. The first time at 15K miles, they replaced the pads and turned the rotors under an ITB.

Will these brake components below help fix the recurring judder issue? I don't drive crazy, but do enjoy the car. I never did any kind of break-in on the new pads, maybe that's my issue. I just want something that will not get judder every couple years. Maybe my wants are unrealistic?

I called a local brake garage and they want $419 PER AXLE (plus tax) to replace my rotors and pads with OEM quality parts. That seems high to me! I don't love doing this work anymore (I'm old / bad back) but have done it before - so saving $500-600, it seems worth it to me!

Is there anything else I need to buy before I tackle this myself? A can of brake cleaner spray to clean the rotors... I have a clamp to compress the cylinder... wire to hold the caliper up when removed.. all the basic tools, breaker bar - anything else? Or course, park the wife's QX50 in the street so I can get to the parts store!

I was helping my friend replace his rear pads on his G40 last weekend and while we had no reason to, we saw no way to remove the lower caliper bolt - the big one - there was a sway bar like thing right in front of it - no way to get a socket on there, and even if we did, how would the bolt come out? I hope I don't run into that nightmare.

Sorry for all the questions. But thanks!

takeapieandrun

iTrader: (2)

The lower caliper bolt, use a box wrench. It took me and my buddy all our strength to break it free pulling together.. the caliper literally started rotating off the rotor because we had opened the top bolt first and the amount of torque we were putting on it. Good luck.

QuinnDEskimo

If you're just looking to replace pads and rotors and want a good set I recommend using rockauto.com to buy parts. This is what I bought and I have a '12 sedan journey. These brakes have been great. They stop quick, are clean, and are noise free. Total cost was around $300 give or take a Hamilton. Listed below are all the part numbers straight from my rockauto.com invoice so everything you need is listed. As for changing brakes, easy peasy. Just make sure you have a BF Hammer to knock the old rotors off. I couldn't believe how hard those things stuck on my car. Everything else is straight forward and not difficult at all.

Rear rotors - CENTRIC 12042088 (Daily Driver) Premium Disc
Rear pads - CENTRIC 30109051 (Daily Driver) Ceramic Pads w/Shims and Hardware

Front rotors - CENTRIC 12042080 (Daily Driver) Premium Disc
Front pads - CENTRIC 30108880 (Daily Driver) Ceramic Pads w/Shims and Hardware

Good luck

TinsleyC

I think I'll go for it. I have a small sledge hammer to knock off the rotors, a nice floor jack, and air wrench to quickly remove the wheels, jack stands for support. Torque wrench for reassembly.

I'll pick up a heavy duty box wrench for that lower bolt, and some kind of cheater bar. Cleaning any kind of rust junk off the mating face sounds good, too. Might as well push a couple cans of fresh brake fluid through it while I'm at it.

Thanks!

TinsleyC

I hope I did this right. It's qty one each on the rotors, so I buy two front rotors and two rear rotors.

But on the brake pads, a diagram said there were four pads in "qty one", so I only order "one" of the front pads and "one" of the rear pads. Correct?


Qty 2 - Rear rotors - CENTRIC 12042088
Qty 1 - Rear pads - CENTRIC 30109051


Qty 2 - Front rotors - CENTRIC 12042080
Qty 1 - Front pads - CENTRIC 30108880

Seems kinda odd... but Thanks! My total was $240, shipped to Texas.

QuinnDEskimo

Yes. You sure did do it right! And yes i may have been looking at the cost after i added the endlinks in so $240 sounds about right since the endlinks were about $15-20 a piece. I'm almost 40 and have gotten to the point where i don't really enjoy working on cars anymore but the cost savings was definitely worth it to me and the job was easy so you'll be happy in the end. Just make sure to bed those brakes in correctly after you install them. I've got about 5-6K miles on my brakes since changing them and I have zero issues. You'll be happy. Glad I could help.

QuinnDEskimo

I also know there are some video tutorials somewhere embedded on this site or on youtube that you can follow along if you are having trouble. I suspect you won't have any issues though. I did this job for myself for the first time ever and didn't run into any issues. I had only changed pads in the past on previously owned cars; this was my first pad/rotor combo i'd ever done.

TinsleyC

I appreciate the help!

So to break in the brakes... I read one suggestion to stop hard from 40 to 5 mph five times, right after one another while they're hot, and keep moving, then let them cool, and then do five 25 to 5 mph moderate stops, letting it cool between. I assume cooling means drive the car for a minute or so to let the rotors cool, or does that mean pull over and wait?

Thanks!

QuinnDEskimo

That sounds about right. I think I did (3) 40-5mph runs and then a couple (2) 25-5 runs but DO NOT stop completely. The reason you don't want to stop is when the rotors are hot and the pads are new if you stop the material from the pads "melts" to the rotor and will leave a deposit on the spot of the rotor you completely stop on. Then you will be back to square one with brake issues.

Do the 3-5 bed-in runs and then drive around for a couple miles/minutes. I did mine early in the morning on the weekend so i knew there wouldn't be a lot of traffic to make me have to stop. And again, I'd never bedded in new rotors so i watched a lot of videos to make sure i was doing it right before i did. I must have since i haven't had issues.

I know in every video i watched they emphasized DO NOT STOP COMPLETELY when bedding in the pads until after they cool after a few minutes of driving after bedding them in.

QuinnDEskimo

Don't read the comments on the video LOL, but this is pretty much how i did mine. Make sure you find a non-busy road (obviously).

TinsleyC

I'm trying to create a shopping list for my rotor/pad change and have a question - what size is the large caliper bolt? I used a 3/4" on a friend's G40 and it seemed to fit fine, but is it really 19mm?

-19mm LONG box wrench
-brake cleaner spray
-wire brush to remove rust from hub
-copper anti-seize
-brake fluid
-small rubber hose to connect to bleed nipples

I have most other tools, anything else?

Thanks!

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

I just did the rear pads on my G, and had to use a floor jack propped against my 1/2" drive ratchet to bust that one caliper bolt loose, kinda ghetto but it worked
I used plenty of anti seize on the bolts this time so it won't happen again.
Otherwise I would have had to remove that suspension arm that's in the way.