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It not happening to you does not make it a myth. I've heard of a dozen ppl saying it happened to them. So I'm just looking out for him. My own cousin had it happen to him, after 5-6 months on stoptech drilled.
Maybe your cousin was unlucky but for rotors to crack in 5-6 months is unheard of unless he's been at the track every week.
It's like saying my car's motor blew but doesn't mean its going to happen to you. If these symptoms happen to less than 1% of the population, its still a safe bet.
G #1 has 80k miles, has the ORIGINAL pads an rotors on it and is fine, but we are expecting to put brakes on it soon.
G # 2 (mine) gets mostly short trips, only mild to moderate braking and has 50k miles. At low mileage (maybe 15k) it had judder and had the fronts resurfaced under warranty. I lost a lot of my grab, increased my pedal travel, and said I would never have another set of rotors resurfaced again, but the judder was fixed. Around 30k miles the judder returned and the rotors were replaced under warranty. It was good for about another 15k miles and now it's back. Bad.
For the record, my G35 Brembo Brakes had 87k miles on them with the original (never resurfaced) rotors when I sold it.
So, needless to say, I want these OEM pads and rotors off my car and i'm not putting OEM back on there. I'm looking to switch to drilled for the appearance and to hopefully reduce any pad "buildup" issue that might happen. Seems like they could hardly be worse than the OEM rotors I've been dealing with for the last 7 years.
After the initial set, I never looked back on OE rotors or pads.
If you are concerned about drilled rotors cracking, just get the slotted ones. Rock auto has some good stuff for cheap.
If you can turn a wrench it's a easy job. I think I did all 4 rotors and pads in 1.5 hours after it was on jack stands.
Maybe your cousin was unlucky but for rotors to crack in 5-6 months is unheard of unless he's been at the track every week.
It's like saying my car's motor blew but doesn't mean its going to happen to you. If these symptoms happen to less than 1% of the population, its still a safe bet.
i said warped, not cracked. And again I've heard a dozen g37 guys on Facebook say their drilled rotors were warped. So it's not uncommon. Not saying it will happen for a fact or anything. Just putting it out there.
i said warped, not cracked. And again I've heard a dozen g37 guys on Facebook say their drilled rotors were warped. So it's not uncommon. Not saying it will happen for a fact or anything. Just putting it out there.
OH that's even a worse statement lol. here I'm thinking it's cracking
Do you know warping is very subjective on your driving habits?
If anything the drilled holes dissipate the heat more.
In the case of my cousin, it was warped. But yes, drilled rotors are also prone to cracking. It has No practical use, it's been proven. It looks great though.
I would say if money is not a problem, get 2 piece rotors . Dba and z1 makes great rotors.
In the case of my cousin, it was warped. But yes, drilled rotors are also prone to cracking. It has No practical use, it's been proven. It looks great though.
I would say if money is not a problem, get 2 piece rotors . Dba and z1 makes great rotors.
In my 136k miles I've driven on the G I've tried DBA's, stoptech, and centrics. For the $$, DBA's are not any better unless you are tracking heavily. You will not notice it from daily driving.
I would get your facts straight first before basing your answers on "oh I've read or seen it from people"
It's great that you haven't ran into any problems. And by no means anything I said was facts. I'm just reiterating what many others shared with me. Just my 2 cents, don't have to be so serious.
Heres what I went with . Racing brake 2 piece fronts ( would have gone dba but found a amazing deal). Dba 4000 rears, z1 brake lines, probably going with ebc red stuff as well.
i would not recommend EBC brake pads. i had Redstuff on a previous car, and they chewed the rotors up in a very short time. never again. i was even warned on a forum not to get them, but went with them anyway ...
drilled rotors can crack, unless the holes are cast in, like on Porsches. get slotted.
i would not recommend EBC brake pads. i had Redstuff on a previous car, and they chewed the rotors up in a very short time. never again. i was even warned on a forum not to get them, but went with them anyway ...
drilled rotors can crack, unless the holes are cast in, like on Porsches. get slotted.
Even cast in holes crack. I'll have to see if I can find the article I read, but a Porsche engineer weighed in on the topic - He basically said that the only reason they do it is because customers like the look. And that they (the engineers) would prefer to not have them.
Last edited by Crazyirish; May 4, 2017 at 05:20 PM.
Even cast in holes crack. I'll have to see if I can find the article I read, but a Porsche engineer weighed in on the topic - He basically said that the only reason they do it is because customer's like the look. And that they (the engineers) would prefer to not have them.
I've read that before.
Drilled rotors have less surface area for pad contact and reduced mass for heat dissipation.
Slotted would be a better choice if you want something fancy.
Even cast in holes crack. I'll have to see if I can find the article I read, but a Porsche engineer weighed in on the topic - He basically said that the only reason they do it is because customers like the look. And that they (the engineers) would prefer to not have them.
interesting.
either way, a daily driver don't need them. if you are racing and changing pads and rotors after every race, sure.
It not happening to you does not make it a myth. I've heard of a dozen ppl saying it happened to them. So I'm just looking out for him. My own cousin had it happen to him, after 5-6 months on stoptech drilled.
Rotors don't warp, it really is a myth. They do build up pad material or wear unevenly (radially) which can lead to pulsing and everyone assuming they're "warped". Slots/cross drilled will make more noise and keep the pad surface cleaned. Cross drilled will help with wet performance.
Unless you throw a run-out gauge at the rotor to truly determine it's warped, assume it isn't and has cementite build-up. Easy braking is the culprit. A few really hard stops should wear that away.
