Lol. Gonna try this weekend

 

I used some "Push Nuts" (see my post #26 in this thread) to hold the bolts to the bracket. They only need to go just far enough onto the bolt to grab hold. Putting them on too far can cause so other issues, don't ask me how I know this.....

I also tied a string around the large adjustment bolt and then lowered the bracket down. Then used a pair of forceps that have an angled tip (bought them at the local fle-market tool vender) to maneuver the bracket to align one of the bolts. With this one bolt somewhat aligned, I was able to get the Allen bit which I had on a flexible extension onto the bolt and get the bolt started. Then moved on to get a second bolt started. Then to get the last bolt started.... (remember I mentioned earlier to only put the Push Nut on just far enough to retain the bolt to the bracket? If you put them on too far, this is where you may run into a problem..... just saying.....)

Hope that this helps.

 

great tips! Its starting to sound like actual surgery.. lol , you must have steady hands.

 

My hands are ok, but I've been told by the ladies that my fingers are awesome!

 

 

Got it in. Lost 3 bolts in the abyss. Got two replacement bolts in. Cannot get the middle bolt started.
Anyone elses master seeping when you move the resevoir a tiny bit to get the 19mm wrench on the jam nut?
Normal or abnormal? Also before i started i notice my booster black paint is bubbling from seepage where it meets the master.
Should i remove the brace and take to dealer to replace whatever is leaking? Or is seepage normal?

 

Fyi fluid level is at the max. Havent touched in a year. 40k miles and fluid is clean and clear.

 

Seepage from your master cylinder is just as bad as seepage from your manhood. Get it fixed.

 

Lol. I wish you would go away and never come back.

 

Pull the carpet behind the brake pedal / Master cylinder area and see if you're getting any seepage in the cabin. Brake fluid will eat up your paint in a hurry, so don't ignore the problem if it's there If you see brake fluid on any painted surfaces, flush it generously with brake cleaner.

 

Thanks i appreciate it. Ive monitored my level meticulously last week and it hasnt budged. It looks like someone spilled when topping off which ate the paint on the booster.

 

I installed this part recently and I can easily say it is a waste of time and money for the street. I can only hope I notice some benefit under threshold braking on track.

It is a major PITA to install and Z1 did not drill the holes correctly so you either get to install the outer two or the middle one, but not all three. I drilled out the middle hole as much as I could without making it so large that the bolt would go all the way through, but that was still not enough to line it up.

I used an extendable magnet to lower down the bolts and then a long hex ball socket to spin them in. Do not drop the bracket as it is aluminum and the magnet will not work to get it back. I wrote more about this "fun" install experience in my build thread, but I would recommend skipping it all together unless you are a track rat.

 

What are your existing brake mods?

I think the incremental improvement may be diminished if you're running more aggressive pads, fresh fluid, and SS lines.

I'm running the NISMO pads with titanium backing plates, RBF600 and stock lines and noticed a slightly firmer pedal on initial application. But maybe it's a placebo

 

He also has a 2013. I can back mine out and notice and watch the firewall flex easily when it is not in place. I have a 2009. Degrees of metal fatigue could be a factor as well.

 

I have Z1 stainless braided lines with Motul RBF fluid. I run stock pads on the street.