Long story short..I have 2011 G37x sedan lowered with Swift Springs / 20mm Spacers on 17" wheels

1 month ago, I installed the swift springs on X and accidentally made a hole on one of the Front Right cv boot.

2 weeks ago, Went to Infiniti and they replaced the whole axle for me. I asked them to do the alignment but they told me that they cannot do an alignment because they don't have a machine for my car because it was lowered.
(Why? sport coupe is low as my car!!)

Today, I went to nearby Nissan and I paid $99 for alignment. After the alignment the technician told me that I need 3 new camber kits. He also told me that this might happened due to replacing the axle(also wondered why Infiniti did not do an alignment after the axle replacement) Here are the spec on the camber:

Left Front : -2.1
Right Front : -1.9
Left Rear : -2.2
Right Rear : - 1.5

Left Front Toe: 0.04
Right Front Toe : 0.04
Left Rear Toe : 0.10
Right Rear Toe : 0.18

Do you think because I didn't get an alignment right after replacing the axle, would cause this? (at least for front side.. not rear) Would Infiniti fix these for me? maybe under warranty?

Also.. are these that bad that I have to replaced the whole axle kits for all 4?

Just went to do an alignment and now I have to spend tons of money..

Please help Myg37!

 

We will need to know if you have any after market suspension parts other than your springs?????

If you don't - they wouldn't need a "special machine" but wouldn't be able to get the numbers to be where they need to be (specifically toe)

Yes you will need special camber/toe parts to make sure your tires to not wear out prematurely

 

Front camber cannot be adjusted without aftermarket parts. Now, if they are saying there are bent parts, well that's a different kettle of gefilte fish. The rear camber has built-in adjustment but what's needed may be more than they can accommodate, in which case you'll need rear camber arms.

An alternative is to leave your camber as is (better for handling) and run zero toe up front and maybe 3 mm (1/8") total toe-in at the rear. Camber wear is much less than toe wear.

Oh yeah, you should have posted this in the Brakes and Suspension forum.

 

Only suspension mod I got is swift springs.. and 20mm spacer.. I have talked to several mechanics and they told me -2 is expected from lowered vehicle and I should just keep it as is since it is actually better for performance.. Do you think its worth investing $$ for camber kits for all 4? I mean that is like a set of cheap tires.

My front toes are 0.04/0.04 and my rear toe are 0.1 / 0.18 degree. what do you mean 3 mm?

 

Wear out that set of tires to see how long they last? If wear rate is bad, you'll have to pop for the adjustable parts. Don't compare them to tires, though. The parts will be a one-time purchase and should be considered part of the coil-over package.

Toe can be measured in distance (inches or millimeters) between wheel center lines on an axle. Toed-in would measure a shorter distance between wheel center lines in the front of the tires than the distance between the center lines at the rear of the tires. Plenty of graphics online to explain this better if you don't follow my description.

Or, toe can be expressed in degrees.

I haven't used degrees in some thirty years. I did find a conversion chart online that I posted on miataforums.net but I didn't bookmark it. Doesn't really matter. Zero toe up front and leave the rear where it's at.

 

Get the rear camber/toe kit so you can get toe in spec, you'll be ok after that.

 

I think anything over -1.5 degree camber is exessive unless you really like the flush and tuck look. If you try to get around 1 degree negative or maybe slightly more negative, you will be good and wont need to worry about your tires as fas as camber goes.

You will need at minimum rear camber arms and toe bolts. Install both yourself its very easy. If your front camber is around -2.1 than I would also consider front camber arms, nothing needed for toe in the front.

As far as the toe, it is more important to get correct than camber because it wears the tires faster and makes your car handle terribly. Your numbers dont look too bad, but I would still get the rear toe bolts to get it closer to 0

 

Get SPC rear toe bolts and rear camber arms
And get Kinetix front camber arms so you can actually adjust camber without taking the whole suspension apart

 

Front -Kinetix camber arms

Rear -SPC Rear Toe bolts and rear camber arms

These are going be around $500..

Is this that bad? why is mechanics telling me this is normal? telling me it is actually good for performance? He also told me some of sport vehicles come with negative camber as stock.

 

Kinetix quality is a bit hit or miss, IMO I'd go w/ SPC, and although it may be a bit more involved to set camber it's not something you have to do often. I've had my SPC F&R set for 4+ years and they've been rock solid w/ excellent tread wear. That front Kinetix ball joint is an area where there's been problems but they may have improved.