help me order the right brake rotors

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Old May 8, 2016 | 11:24 PM
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help me order the right brake rotors

I am planning on changing my brake rotors but need help. I have a 2011 G37x AWD coupe.

I am not sure which option to pick?

Front:

help me order the right brake rotors-rualgtg.png

Rear:

help me order the right brake rotors-4vfuzx6.png

StopTech Drilled and Slotted Rotors - Free Shipping on Stop Tech Slotted & Cross Drilled Brake Rotors
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Old May 9, 2016 | 06:37 AM
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Do you have Akebono calipers?
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Old May 9, 2016 | 07:46 AM
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For the regular X coupe it's the 330mm/330mm combo, the XS gets the big 355/350 Akebono setup.
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Old May 9, 2016 | 10:40 AM
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I do not have akebono setup. Do these require Akebono? I was under the impression you can use it with the OEM brakes.
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Old May 9, 2016 | 10:56 AM
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Not sure which site that is. Most sites allow you to put in your car and it will give you the correct brakes.. ^ re-read blnewt's post, he clarified the correct size you need for non-Akebono

I might also suggest reaching out to the folks at KNS Brakes.. They can size you up perfect and ship what you need. Also I would highly recommend you get the cryogenic treated rotors. They have better resistance to heat spots and subsequent brake judder.
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Old May 9, 2016 | 01:48 PM
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That's Autoanything.com, I love that site. But as BLnewt said since you don't have the Akebonos you'll go with the 330mm front and rear. Also, any reason why your getting drilled and slotted? Unless you are tracking your car OFTEN you should stick with just slotted. The holes are actually going to take away a lot of contact area for the pad surface and will essentially HURT your braking. On some not so rare occasions they tend to crack around the drilled holes too. Looks wise yeah, they are agressive looking but slotted look great as well.. Cant go wrong either way but figured I'd chime in.
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Old May 10, 2016 | 01:54 AM
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Thanks guys.

The only reason I am going with the drilled AND slotted is for the looks. I am not tracking the car and won't be in the future ever.

Do they need to get clear coated to prevent dust?
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Old May 10, 2016 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by timc00k
Thanks guys.

The only reason I am going with the drilled AND slotted is for the looks. I am not tracking the car and won't be in the future ever.

Do they need to get clear coated to prevent dust?
Did you mean rust?
I'd tape off the pad area (with about 1/4" into that area un-taped) and shoot w/ VHT Flameproof, a black will look good and once the pads cut into the paint it will leave a nice painted rotor.
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Old May 10, 2016 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris9884
That's Autoanything.com, I love that site. But as BLnewt said since you don't have the Akebonos you'll go with the 330mm front and rear. Also, any reason why your getting drilled and slotted? Unless you are tracking your car OFTEN you should stick with just slotted. The holes are actually going to take away a lot of contact area for the pad surface and will essentially HURT your braking. On some not so rare occasions they tend to crack around the drilled holes too. Looks wise yeah, they are agressive looking but slotted look great as well.. Cant go wrong either way but figured I'd chime in.
Drilled rotors do NOT reduce brake efficiency they enhance it by cooling the rotor. Braking ability is a function of swept area not surface area, that's why the sport brake rotors are 14 inches vs 13 inches for the base brakes. Using the notion that drilled rotors hurt efficiency this motorcycle would take about 2000 feet to stop, which couldn't be further from the truth. It will lift the back tire with one finger on the brake lever from 160 miles an hour lap, after lap, after lap.
Attached Thumbnails help me order the right brake rotors-photo757.jpg  
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Old May 11, 2016 | 01:25 AM
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As usual blnewt answered all your questions with the best of detail Tim I hope my PM's also helped you out! Remember what I said!
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Old May 11, 2016 | 01:28 AM
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320mm for sedans, 330mm for coupes, and 355mm for those with Akebonos
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Old May 11, 2016 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Roadrash666
Drilled rotors do NOT reduce brake efficiency they enhance it by cooling the rotor. Braking ability is a function of swept area not surface area, that's why the sport brake rotors are 14 inches vs 13 inches for the base brakes. Using the notion that drilled rotors hurt efficiency this motorcycle would take about 2000 feet to stop, which couldn't be further from the truth. It will lift the back tire with one finger on the brake lever from 160 miles an hour lap, after lap, after lap.
Lets not get into a debate, this is a huge question and no one can ever agree, because no one is right or wrong. For a daily driver I personally don't see any reason for drilled OR slotted. He said he would never take it to the track, ever.. Your analogy of a motorcycle at 160MPH slowing very rapidly makes perfect sense but doesn't at all fit this conversation. If I was pushing the brake pedal to the ground from 160 then sure, dissipate the heat asap (slots) and clean the pad of pad debri (drilled).. He doesn't need performance rotors to go to the dry cleaners.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 10:31 PM
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From: Florissant MO
Originally Posted by Kris9884
Lets not get into a debate, this is a huge question and no one can ever agree, because no one is right or wrong. For a daily driver I personally don't see any reason for drilled OR slotted. He said he would never take it to the track, ever.. Your analogy of a motorcycle at 160MPH slowing very rapidly makes perfect sense but doesn't at all fit this conversation. If I was pushing the brake pedal to the ground from 160 then sure, dissipate the heat asap (slots) and clean the pad of pad debri (drilled).. He doesn't need performance rotors to go to the dry cleaners.
My point was not about the stopping ability of a motorcycle vs a car. The point I was making is that a drilled rotor does NOT reduce braking efficiency due to the loss of surface area. PERIOD. It's a matter of simple physics so there is a right and wrong. As I pointed out the coefficient of drag is more related to swept area, which is related to the surface area of the pad not the rotor. Many high end performance cars(AMG Mercedes for one) come with drilled and or drilled and slotted rotors to ENHANCE stopping power. OP may not NEED drilled and slotted rotors, but if that's what he wants he can run them without any fear of reducing his braking power. I'm not trying to bust anyones ***** here, I'm just trying to provide accurate information.
On a side note, I checked out your build thread. If you don't live too far from the St. Louis area you should bring your car to the next Gateway Z Club car show at Bommarito Nissan in September. It would be nice to see more nicely done, clean G37s there. Yours definitely qualifies, nice coupe.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 10:35 PM
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From: Florissant MO
Originally Posted by timc00k
Thanks guys.

The only reason I am going with the drilled AND slotted is for the looks. I am not tracking the car and won't be in the future ever.

Do they need to get clear coated to prevent dust?
Power Stop rotors are Zinc coated so they don't rust, I have a set on our F150 Super Crew that are almost two years old and they look just like the day I put them on. That's what I'm putting on the G when the rotors get replaced.
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Old May 12, 2016 | 03:19 AM
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i have a 2012 G37s Coupe with sport, nav and prem packages.. my rotors are shot at only 35k miles and I'm in need of new ones. I was thinking of getting the Stop Tech slotted since I've heard nothing but good things about them. I have the large calipers, and I'm looking for a good price on a set of 4 with new pads (BBK). Do any of you know of a good place to find and at a good price? Im a total newbie, thanks in advance.
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