Long time lurker, finally starting some upgrades to my 08 G35S sedan.

I've got coilovers, front and rear camber kits and strut brace arriving this week.

For those that have installed suspension components themselves, any advice on order of install? Rears are easier I believe based on some previous comments; should I try to get all rear done before touching the front coils and camber arms?

I plan to mill the toebolt slots myself as well; any tips on tools to use for that? I've got files, dremel, power grinder. This is the only part I'm a little concerned with, but I want to try and do the whole install myself (with a buddy's help.)

I plan to take plenty of pictures as well and possibly add on to some of the DIY threads as well.

Thanks!

 

If you're comfortable with all the tasks involved it doesn't really matter much what order you do it in. Do your best to try to set the rear toe and camber as close as possible to where it was before you swapped out the parts. It'll still be off. Way off. Be careful because if it's too far off the car will handle very squirrely and unpredictable on your way to the alignment shop.

Elongating the toe bolt hole is the worst part. It's tedious. But have patience. There's a specific Dremel bit number to use for that task but I can't remember what it is right now. Try searching. Buy 2 or 3 of them because you'll wear them out quickly.

Good luck and props for DIY'ing it.

 

I've seen #115 referenced a few times and the wafer cutoff wheels; does the bit work a lot better?

I'm thinking I could start with the cutoff wheels and finish with the bits to save some wear and tear on them. Curious if anyone has tried that as well; if not I might give it a shot and post back here.

 

Yes, that's the one. I don't know about the cutoff wheel. The steel is pretty hard; it could work but seems a little fragile for this job to me. Try it.

 

Just be aware of pre-load if you take off or unbolt the sways/endlinks

 

From my reading, I believe I can just loosen the swaybar mount at the bushing to work on the toe bolt without removing end links in the rear.

Also if car is supported on all 4 corners on jack stands I should be able to have room in the front to get the coils in without removing end links as well correct?

 

I believe I'll have to set front pre-load on the coils (Tein) since I have to reuse upper mounts as well, so I'll review again and double check.

Thanks for the reminder.

 

"should" is a word I hate using/hearing...the military works off this word and it's annoying.
Most likely you won't have to remove the sways so you'll be fine but on the off chance you need some movement on the control arm...etc it's something to keep in mind.

 

Thanks for the feedback, and I'll have to see when I get in there this weekend what clearance I'll need.

Will add this to my write-up for others to reference as well.

 

I found the cutoff wheels to work much better than the #115 bits, and I have the full dremel kit w/ flex extender. I'd get a pack of the small wafers and get a piece of scrap to grind the wafer diameter down a bit, then start cutting the elongated slot. It's also much easier to see what you're doing w/ the cutoff wafers since you can keep the tool perpendicular to the slot.
Not sure, but I think some Gs had an aluminum channel section where the toe slot was, and this was much easier to cut w/ that #115 bit. Mine was a steel channel and it didn't take much cutting before that bit was toast, so if your channel is silver (mine is black) you might be fine w/ that #115.

Also keep in mind you only have to cut into the side of the template slot that is toward the vehicle's center, the outer side of the slot will only increase your toe.