I also ordered the ones that do fit from amazon even though amazon says they do not. If you look at the ebc catalog you can find the correct part number if you know your rotor size, which is 12.6" for the front in a non-sport sedan.
USA_Automotive_Catalogue_2016

 

i have ordered my pads off autoanything in the past and have never had an issue.. if you type in you car and model they give the correct par numbers

 

The issue is regarding EBC brake pads specifically, not any random pad. For some reason, every website that sells ebc yellowstuff does not advertise the correct part number for the infiniti g37 non sport sedan.

 

Ordering pads and rotors for our cars is a little troublesome.

Sedan vs coupe vs Sport

They all have different rotor sizes and you have to be careful.

IIRC, the parking brake shoes are the only universal on this car.

I'm doing my brakes this weekend...I've got everything ordered and will have it all by Thursday. If I have time, I'll flush the brake fluid as well.

Is there a resource on here that shows the correct flush order? I'm not talking about simply stating "longest to shortest"...I want an exact order. On some other forums for another car, I've discovered that the "obvious" longest to shortest is incorrect as the driver's side front brake happens to have a longer run as it has to go to the ABS module. This isn't apparent and will trip you up if you just glance at the brake line diagram.

Is there an undisputed flush order for calipers on the G37?

 

This bleeding order per the FSM~
passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front.

 

This is what I did when I changed my fluid along with pads. No problems yet.

 

Thanks, that's awesome. I've seen FSMs specify to bleed from longest to shortest, and then give you a brake line diagram and let you figure it out yourself. I like how they spelled it out to eliminate ambiguity.

 

If I only replaced my front rotors and pads, could my brake pedal have over-travel and feel a bit spongy?

I left work early today so I decided to change the front brakes and rotors. I was pretty meticulous at each step and feel I did everything correctly.

I'll be doing the rear brakes tomorrow.

Using Google, I did find someone on a Mercedes forum with a similar issue. One guy asked if perhaps he had only changed the front brakes as this causes a fluid imbalance. The suggestion was to change all pads and reassess.

Another possibility is over returning the pistons. Is this also a concern with the G?

Post #3
Mushy brake pedal feel after brake pad replacement. - MBWorld.org Forums

Could this also apply to the G37? I haven't done any bleeding so I'm skeptical that air could have gotten in.

 

When I changed my pads and fluid my pedal felt "spongy" at first. But after I bedded the pads in and drove the car next day, the pedal was very firm. Give it another day or two and make sure you have done the bed in procedure correctly. Everyone does it differently, but I did 20-5 mph four times, 40-20 mph four times, and 60-20 mph four times with moderate pressure without coming to a complete stop in between.
By the way, I only changed my front pads, but I did bleed the whole system so I'm not sure if thats relevant to your question.

 

The ebc yellows have the bedding surface on the brakes that takes quite a few miles to get through. Once that is completely gone then I would do the normal bedding procedure to finalize the pad/rotor surface.

 

I strongly recommend this tool to all who plan to do their brakes. The c-Clamp works ok on the front, but the rear calipers don't. This tool would have been great to have. Perhaps a 4" c-Clamp would have worked better than the 3" I had.

Does anyone know if this tool above well work on the sport Akebonos? Looking at their design, I can't figure out how it would work as I don't see a cutout on the calipers.

 

where did u get that tool?

 

right here

 

Harbor freight has a similar one for $7.

I bought their compete brake kit for $44 minus 25% coupon.