Just bought a set of Tein H. Tech springs and will be putting them on as soon as they come in. I would either like to get them installed by my local Jiffy Lube (I met a mechanic there who claims to have worked on and help built various japanese cars in the past) and get an alignment immediately after, or just go ahead with a DIY and let it settle before an alignment. Since they're supposedly a mild 1.2" drop, do you guys think it's necessary to get an alignment done immediately after? Or would you guys suggest I install them on my own and let it settle first? If I get the alignment immediately after install I'll just let the mechanics do it all for me.

BTW I'm riding on stock 18" if that has to do with anything.

 

You'll want to let it settle a few days, the rubber mounts take some time to get fully re-seated. DIY the springs isn't a bad job, just be sure to use decent spring compressors, the ones they have at Autozone/Oreillys are OK and will refund your full deposit if you bring them back in 24hrs. Just be sure to grease the compressor threaded sliders a lot, and use an air impact wrench for the compressor.

 

Is a few days really enough? I'd give it at least a week or two and also put some miles on the car to work the springs.

 

In that case I'll install them and wait a week or two with added mileage before alignment.

 

Yes, immediately unless you don't value your tires or you know how to string measure your cars alignment. Most places will re-check after 3-5000 miles of settle as will my place.

 

I should have elaborated~Let them settle over 5-7 days while keeping driving to a minimum as an out of aligned vehicle can be unpredictable in it's handling, especially at higher speeds. I just drove around town, nothing over 45 mph IIRC. But I also installed new camber F&R camber kits so that's also more alignment issues to deal with.
I think Firestone shops offer lifetime alignment deals, or if you have a shop like M3club that will realign it in a week or two that would be a good option.
If you do drive it much without an alignment be very careful and keep it slow.

 

I should clarify my position. Ideally, springs should be done with old tires you're not too worried about chewing up. Of course, once new springs are installed, at the very least, a rough alignment should be made.

After some time and miles, a proper alignment should be done. With the car stationary, load on the springs is static. When driving, the load varies. The latter of which I think is better to 'break-in' the springs. Ultimately, it all boils down to how **** you are about your alignment specs.

I'm not up on how much a 1.2" drop will affect camber/caster in the front. Recall, only toe is adjustable in the front, and camber/toe in the rear. If I were drop my car, i'd get adjustable links so all angles could be brought back into spec.

 

This is my daily driver and I do drive it a lot. So I might just have to go with an mmediate alignment and see if the shop can do another within a week?

 

I went with the Eibach Pro Springs instead. Any recommendations, if any, about camber kits? Is it necessary for these springs?

 

I'd go at least w/ a rear camber kit, you can either go w/ the rear camber arm/toe bolt combo or the rear camnber bolt/toe bolt combo, just the rear 4 bolts cost about $50 if you DIY and the rear arm/bolt combo is about $150, both of those kits will return your alignment back to stock in back and your front should be in the -1.6 range which is out but not by much, so if your toe is good you should get decent wear.

 

So either one of these two choices are what I need for the rear?

Camber Bolt Kit - PRO-ALIGNMENT Camber Bolt Kit*| Eibach Springs

Camber Arm Kit - PRO-ALIGNMENT Camber Arm Kit*| Eibach Springs

Ooooooorrrr.... Should I just pull the trigger on this if I decide to do front and rear? http://thmotorsports.com/combo-packa.../i-273882.aspx

 

I got Eibach also #6388.001&2, your number may differ. You will need rear BUT since your under there and you can afford it, get the fronts. Are you doing this yourself? I did and ran into issues. Rental spring compressors are not going to get your front progressive springs on. You will need a wall mounted compressor. Your rear are fine however I ran into rust (car is from Chicago) in the rear camber link bolt that mounts to the sub-frame. With much persuasion I got it to come out. Currently happy although the stock struts with 90k on them are not matched with the spring rates took some getting used too. Don't let this deter you.

 

Just to save time and money I'm just going to focus on the rear since that's where most of the negative camber will occur....Damn so I'll have no luck at all with rental compressors?

 

You could try some tricks like pounding the compressor claws around the spring for 5-6 coils...and then back out...for both compressors...and it still may not be enough. Way too much effort compared to finding a DIY shop or local independent shop (like the one doing your alignment - bonus) to compress them in. It will take them 15 min. but they will charge you for 30 min. I would just ask them to swap the springs and don't even waste the time to rent and bring back for the front as you will not need them on the rear.

I did have one other issue was I had to use vise grips on the front shock at the top to keep the shaft from spinning to get the top nut off on just one side.

 

As far as the rear camber kit, with a mild Eibach drop you can get by w/ teh four bolt set, here's the best price I found and you need two of these kits (and a dremel tool to elongate the bolt slots).
SPC Performance Camber/Toe Cam Bolt Kit; Pair, Reqr's 1 per Wheel INFINITI FX35