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Cool, glad he is still happy w/ that setup. When you guys get these installed and put some time on them be sure to post a review in this folder, will be a good resource for other saggers. Brakes & Suspension - MyG37
to me your original stance after installing the springs was the correct one..
if you look at the stance of a factory height car. there is more of a gap in front than the back. with the side skirts parallel to the ground.. i've had this discussion before with a friend, he also complained to me that my gaps didnt even out i explained that if i do there will be a rake of the car that wasnt meant to be.
for me i much prefer a level body than matching gaps..
to me your original stance after installing the springs was the correct one..
if you look at the stance of a factory height car. there is more of a gap in front than the back. with the side sills parallel to the ground.. i've had this discussion before with a friend, he also complained to me that my gaps didnt even out i explained that if i do there will be a rake of the car that wasnt meant to be.
for me i much prefer a level body than matching gaps..
I don't think this is weird at all. I've always thought the car should sit with the side sills close to level, which means there will be less fender gap in the rear than in the front. If you make the fender gap perfectly even front to rear then there is a rake to the side sills that almost makes the car look like a drag car with the rear end being higher than the front. Ideally, you might split the difference, so there is a very slight rake to the side sills and therefor making the difference in the fender gap from front to rear less noticeable. This is pretty much how I set-up my car and this can really only be achieve using coil-overs, though.
I also don't really think those spring isolators should be used to "lift the car".. they are really designed to isolate the coils that make contact with one another to reduce noise and ride harshness. I can also see that spring isolator causing issues with how the spring sits in the factory spring seats. The factory spring seats are designed to keep the base of the spring flat in the seat, so the spring compression is uniform around the entire circumference... but using the isolator you are essentially causing part of the spring not to sit properly in the seat, and this could cause the spring not to compress uniformly. You are basically trying to use a band aid to fix a gaping wound.
You are basically trying to use a band aid to fix a gaping wound.
No argument from me. It certainly seems like something that would compromise the designed behavior of the spring. But if the effort and cost to test it out is negligible, and if the end result turns out to be imperceptible from a daily driver POV... meh, who cares?
Everyone weighs function over form to their own set of priorities.
Last edited by Rochester; Jul 2, 2016 at 10:53 AM.
I'll be interested to know how well it holds up. That kind of looks like the thing rochester used.
Somewhat, in that stanchua is using a rubber/poly spacer at the end of his rear spring. But this device he found here is contoured to the shape of the coil, and he installed it at the bottom.
stanchua... you put this in the bucket? How's that work if the underside of that ring is flat? So I'm trying to refresh my memory on how the bottom of the spring seats into the bucket, and according to pics on the net, the half-circle shape and ledge isn't a perfectly contoured design for the coil... it's actually kind of crude. So I suppose this works.
Good luck with this. I think you should bump the thread with feedback in a couple thousand miles.
Last edited by Rochester; Jul 28, 2016 at 07:27 AM.
This is an interesting thread.
I've noticed from many photos the rear fender on the G appears lower.
I measured my G, and then I put OEM style coilovers and carefully adjusted the height square all around and for sure, the rear fender gap is lower even when the fender arch height is the same as the front. It might be a body design thing such that the shape of the arch is simply different. IDK
As far as the spring adapter stanchua used, I'm curious as well regarding how it was installed and seated
If it is at the bottom of the rear spring, the Bucket has a stepped seat, and a stepped rubber pad (#18 "rubber seat") to level out the spring perch.
I could imagine how the split could sit directly over the stepped ridge in the spring bucket, perhaps directly on the rubber seat. That might be a bit much to sit neatly.
Stanchua, did you reuse the rubber seat?
Having OEM-style coilovers I can easily eliminate this differential but for now I think having the designed stance (at a lowered height) is the way I'll go. I'm not opposed to a slight rake but I'm not big on the idea the skirt would rake as well.
I may get bored or OCD and change that eventually.
Meanwhile I'll be looking carefully at everyone's stance, especially Rochester's super tidy setup.
Last edited by bikezilla; Jul 28, 2016 at 08:16 AM.
After reading many of the threads over the past two years it appears that the wheel opening centers are not at the same level or the rear opening is larger, so even arch heights lead to rear droop. Measuring from the rocker panels seems more appropriate.
I've noticed from many photos the rear fender on the G appears lower.
And that's just it... it *appears* lower because of the different design of the two fender arches. When you establish an identical floor-to-fender height, and you actually introduce a 1/2" rake to the car. Personally, I think a 1/2" rake is imperceptible, and doesn't matter at all for a DD.
Originally Posted by bikezilla
I could imagine how the split could sit directly over the stepped ridge in the spring bucket, perhaps directly on the rubber seat. That might be a bit much to sit neatly.
Probably not on the lower seat, but yes... I can visualize how this works now. And even though I've no regrets getting the coilovers, I would have tried this first had I known about it.