I'd just go to a NAPA if you have one and check their stock, a thicker paper gasket should suffice if it's somewhat pliable. Some have fibers mixed in for added strength which would be a good choice.

 

Holy ****!!! I was just thinking of doing this also. I have eibachs and think the front is a little low. I think a 1/4-3/8" higher would be great. I was thinking of using the stuff those plastic kitchen cutting boards are made of. I can buy one at walmart for a few bucks and use a holesaw and jigsaw to make them.

OP what vehicle is that and what are the spacers called?

 

I just got my 1/4" aluminum plates cut into 5"x5" size for machining out the spacer gasket size. Need to figure out what gasket material to use or thinking of plastidip them. I plan to pull one strut out this weekend to get the machining started next week. Then hopefully install the Tanabe NF210 fronts only. Also pull the rear springs out and cut down the rubber isolator by 1/4". I will post pics of the progress once I get started.

 

Sounds like you have a good plan. Not sure if you've done spring swaps before but the fronts are somewhat of a pain if the bolts are frozen. The rears are simple. One bolt and out they come. Post pics as you go or at the end.

 

I'm used to a lot of mechanic work on cars and trucks. Just installed a 7" lift on a denali and 10" coil-over lift on Dodge 2500. So a strut with a loctite bolt is simple, good 1/2" impact gun or breaker bar with some penetrating lube. I will post dimensions and such when I get it apart with spacers machined. I think this will keep the front end and rear end alignment within stock range for the mild drop.

 

If all goes well and you have a good source for the material & tooling you could make a little side money selling kits
G/L w/ the project, looking forward to how it works out.

 

Hmm Very interesting.

 

Finally got some time to get the front struts off the car. Took the old gasket and some measurements to machine my 5"x5"x1/4" aluminum plates. Should be pretty easy machine job, the ID should be 3", stud to stud CL is 4.395", and the stud diameter is .305". We are estimating some special edge machining for the OD as the one side is close to the body radius. I will post some pics when I get the parts back from machining. I hope to get them back this week and install on car this weekend.

Plan is still lower the front 3/4" and cut 1/4" off rear. So front fender heights will be 27.5" F and 27.25" R.

 

Got the parts back from machining and they look great! They made the bolt holes a little big and was skinny on width but they work and fit the necessary surface area. I used a 1/16" rubber cork gasket material to put on top of the spacer in-between the strut spacer and body. I am very pleased with the results and can sell some if people want them!








I installed Tanabe NF210s up front only with the 1/4" spacer and cut the rear rubber mount 1/4" with a band saw. I can say the results are perfect all within stock alignment tolerances! Front is 27 3/4" and rear is 27 1/4" with full gas tank.
DOMO

 

Wow, I'm liking this a lot
Great looking & even drop that is perfect for those wanting a easier-to-live-with lowering option. As far as selling them, I think that would have to be handled through PMs.
But great job and this could prove to be a very valuable DIY solution.
Keep us posted on how they handle, and any noises, etc.
BTW, how much thread is left through the top of the nuts?
Might be worth seeing if Tanabe would "group buy" sets of front springs

 

Thanks blnewt! It is the perfect drop for me! This is an easy option for super mild lowering. Yes all sales would be PM since its a custom part. So far no noises and quiet just like stock. I have about 2-3 threads left on top of the stud after torqued down.

 

Refresh bump since this is good stuff

 

Is your car an X , Journey or Sport ?

 

It is a Sport model