Brake Fade On Track Day
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Brake Fade On Track Day
Driving Stock G37xS Coupe.
On my last track day I experienced many brake fades
If I had to improve 1 out of the 3 (budget) What would it be:
1. Better Pads.
2. Flush and replace with better brake fluid.
3. something else.
Your recommendations are welcome.
Thanks
On my last track day I experienced many brake fades
If I had to improve 1 out of the 3 (budget) What would it be:
1. Better Pads.
2. Flush and replace with better brake fluid.
3. something else.
Your recommendations are welcome.
Thanks
If you are tracking, you really shouldn't choose. You definitely need to flush each time you track (it doesn't cost much except time) and yes, better pads will help too. The something else would be brake cooling and possibly working on more efficient braking technique.
Experiencing fading brakes? There are two main causes of brake fade
1) When the temperature at the interface between the pad and the rotor exceeds the thermal capacity of the pad, the pad loses friction capability . The brake pedal remains firm and solid but the car will not stop in the usual distance. The first indication is a distinctive chemical smell which indicates very hot brakes. Have you ever been around a new driver who slipped the clutch too much? Same smell.
2) When the fluid boils in the calipers air bubbles are formed. Since air can be compressed, the brake pedal feels soft and pedal travel increases. You can probably still stop the car by pumping the pedal but efficient braking is gone. Once the brake fluid inside the caliper has boiled, it has lost a significant percentage of its original boiling point and should be replaced. It is not necessary to remove all of the fluid in the system, just bleed until clear fluid appears.
How do you solve this? Higher temperature range brake pads and a high temperature brake fluid along with better cooling will help tremendously.
1) When the temperature at the interface between the pad and the rotor exceeds the thermal capacity of the pad, the pad loses friction capability . The brake pedal remains firm and solid but the car will not stop in the usual distance. The first indication is a distinctive chemical smell which indicates very hot brakes. Have you ever been around a new driver who slipped the clutch too much? Same smell.
2) When the fluid boils in the calipers air bubbles are formed. Since air can be compressed, the brake pedal feels soft and pedal travel increases. You can probably still stop the car by pumping the pedal but efficient braking is gone. Once the brake fluid inside the caliper has boiled, it has lost a significant percentage of its original boiling point and should be replaced. It is not necessary to remove all of the fluid in the system, just bleed until clear fluid appears.
How do you solve this? Higher temperature range brake pads and a high temperature brake fluid along with better cooling will help tremendously.
1. how old is the brake fluid that's in there? If you were experiencing brake fade because your fluid was boiling, then you should flush and replace it.
2. How old are the pads and rotors? Stock pads are okay, but a good set of dedicated track pads (carbotech) are definitely the best investment
3. Stainless lines help somewhat, and are relatively inexpensive. You'll need to flush your brake fluid if you replace these anyways, so if you're gonna flush already...
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My technical/mechanical skills are worse than a 7 year old girl
Will it be enough just to flush/pump out the fluid from its reservoir (and replace) or I need to pump/bleed the brakes every time as well?
When people say bleed your brakes, they mean you need to bleed it from the caliper, not from the reservoir.
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Before your first (or next) track day, I recommend completely replacing your brake fluid with Motul 5.1, or RBF600. You should then bleed your calipers (part of the flushing process). You should also be changing your diff oil, motor oil, trans fluid, coolant, and clutch fluid (if applicable).
If you have multiple consecutive track days, you should bleed your brakes before each session and top back up with more fluid. Again, if you're going to be bleeding each caliper down to replace your fluid, you might as well stick some stainless steel lines on there.
Oh, and if you have multiple sessions each day, you should be checking your fluids, tires, brakes, rotors, exhaust, transmission, diff, and wheels for cracks, leaks, bends, and to make sure they're the proper level.
Retorque your wheels frequently.
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Great info guys!
1.With the Sport PKG / BBK do I need to take out the wheels in order to bleed the calipers (or I hook the bleeder to the "black cap" on my caliper ?
2.So... just bleed a little and refill with fluid , or pump the reservoir , and then bleed & refill?
Thank you so much again
1.With the Sport PKG / BBK do I need to take out the wheels in order to bleed the calipers (or I hook the bleeder to the "black cap" on my caliper ?
2.So... just bleed a little and refill with fluid , or pump the reservoir , and then bleed & refill?
Thank you so much again
A power bleeder is filled with brake fluid, pressurized, and hooked up to your brake master cylinder reservoir (under the hood where you put the brake fluid). Then you simply go to each caliper in order (RR, RF, LR, LF) and crack open the nipple slightly until the fluid coming out is clear and bubble free. Use clear tubing on the nipples and a clear plastic bottle to catch the fluid coming out so you can see it's condition and color. Then close it and move to the next one. You will most likely need to remove wheels to access the nipples on the back side of each caliper (they each have 2).
The huge benefit is that it's much easier, cleaner, and quicker than doing it manually. It only requires one person and not much mechanical aptitude.
The huge benefit is that it's much easier, cleaner, and quicker than doing it manually. It only requires one person and not much mechanical aptitude.
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