Hey guys, I need your help. So I was getting braking shudder or vibration when braking so I bought DBA 2pc t3 5000 series rotors and new pads. About 7000 miles later, it is happening again to the point where the whole car shakes and I just can't take it anymore. Thanks in advance. Phil

 

Hmmmm.... calipers could need to be rebuilt. If they are sticking or malfunctioning they could be excessively heating up the rotors and causing them to prematurely warp. Kind of seems like it would need to be something along those lines to warp higher quality rotors like the DBA.

 

I'm currently getting a good amount of vibration in the front and back, in which Nissan said they would turn all four rotors for 200....

 

But my car has only 37k miles.

 

Did you bed your brakes correctly? Who installed them? If debris under the mating surface between hub and rotor is causing an excessive amount of rotor runout, then it doesn't matter how many times you replace your rotors and pads.

 

My mechanic installed them for me. As for bed in, the only thing I did was I tried not to brake hard for the first 1k miles. What do you mean by under the mating surface and rotor runout?

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The bedding in process is very dependent on the pads. Basically you need to brush off all debris (usually rust) from surfaces that rest against each other. This ensures balance.

 

Hey guys. I emailed DBA about it and this is what they said:
Phillip-

I asked our tech department to review your issue. *They have determined that there is uneven pad deposits on the rotor face causing your vibration issues. *
They recommend having them lightly turned to remove this pad material build up from the braking surface.

We always suggest that you follow the bed-in procedure that is provided by your pad manufacturer. *But if you dont know what the pad manufacturer suggests, We have a basic bed-in procedure on our site here:*DBAUSA | TECH ARTICLE # T017 – BASIC INITIAL BRAKE BED-IN – STREET

 

Should I really get them turned? Or what should I do?

 

To clarify what I said before, when rotors are installed, they fit on to the five wheel studs. There isn't really anything holding the rotor to the car, except for the brake caliper. When you replace rotors, you remove the caliper, and use a hammer to knock rotor off the wheels studs. The new rotor slips on to the wheel studs and is snugged up against the axle hub. If you get rust or other crap between the rotor and hub, then your rotor will be slightly crooked. This is rotor runout. You measure it with a runout gauge. Excessive runout (we're talking thousandths of an inch here) can cause the uneven pad wear your vendor mentioned. Turning down the rotors will help if your rotors were warped or not bedded correctly to begin with, but it won't help if the issue was a **** installation and debris left between the rotor/hub surfaces.

 

Thanks for clarifying. I did talk to my mechanic about that and he said he obviously cleaned the hub up. So I don't really know what to do. Should I take the wheels off, get that runout gauge and check them first? If not, then turn them? Can the dealer turn the rotors, correctly? Thanks for all your help so far guys.

 

Most dedicated brake shops will have a runout gauge. It's a little specific to buy just for the odd rotor job you do. The dealership might also have it, and yes, they can probably turn your rotors down for you. Basically, I'm guessing your vendor wants you to remove the layer of brake material deposited onto the rotors and start again from scratch.

 

What pads are you using?

 

Duralast gold c max ceramic.

 

I can honestly say that's not the pad I would have expected on 2 piece DBA rotors, lol. I don't know too much about that pad besides it's Autozone's house brand. If your going to have the rotors turned I would recommend buying the Akebono ProACT pads. This is only about $100 total for the front and rear sets. These are very well known to be OEM quality, make zero noise, and have zero issues. Just a thought.