ZEUS10

Just had deal instal DBA4000 rotors, stop tech lines and hawk HPS pads should be good right? NO, Looks like I have to bleed the brakes again the pedal feels very plush, not even as firm as stock.

Questions...

In what order do I bleed, closest to MC then further or what particular order

Where is the rear bleeding nipple. I have a 2010 G37S, I can see the front one but there is a rumor that there is a rear nipple to bleed as well. Does this one even have be bled?

I'll be DIY with the push pedal method

Any Help/advice for me out there??

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

According to the FSM,

"rear right brake →front left brake →rear left brake →and front right brake in
order." (BR-11)

Both front and rear calipers appear to have dual bleeder screws. The inward screw is in the same location as the outward screw, just on the inside half of the caliper.

WARNING, do not over tighten the bleeder screws. They snap easily. The fsm says 70 ft lb, but I think they mean 70 in lb. Basically til it bottoms out (by hand), then a few deg more (1/16th of a turn).

I'd probably do the outer screws first, then the inner. The outer is further away from the brake line inlet. Though I doubt it really matters. Yes, you do need to bleed both halves of the calipers.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Also be sure to keep a steady eye on the master cylinder fluid level, get any air in there and you'll probably have to bench bleed it

ZEUS10

How do I avoid the air in the MC, I wast told the dealer put motul in I can't find that here locally, but will have to take some fluid out of the MC by a turkey baster then put into the bleeder bottle so when I start the bleeding process the Motul will go back into the lines instead of any air. Is the a sh#$ point the MC cannot reach? I just planned on taking a little out maybe 1/2 cup to put into the bleeder bottle. Do I leave the Brake fluid cap on or off during this process. I can't believe that there isn't a video out on how to do this for G37S's. I would make one but don't have the cam, fiancee has it in MN. Thanks for your quick reply's!

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

^^What? Given your questions, seriously give thought to having someone that's done this before assist/supervise you.

I've never removed fluid from the reservoir unless it was old/dark/deteriorated before bleeding.

The general idea is to have the end of the tube (connected to a bleeder screw) immersed in brake fluid so that if some should get drawn back in, it will be fluid coming back in, not air. I've never bothered to do this. So long as you time the opening/closing of the bleeder screw appropriately, only fluid will exit. When doing this on my bike, I'd make sure to close the screw before the lever was to the bar. On the car, I use a motive power bleeder. It makes flushes and bleeds a 1 person job. Also eliminates possible MC damage by not having the mc operated in a range it's not normally operated in.

Be aware that if you spill any brake fluid on painted surfaces, it will eat at the paint.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Just do what Jsolo said and you'll be fine. I went through about 24 oz of Dot 4 fluid for my last brake job, but the Akebono calipers should use a bit more than my Non-S brakes. As far as keeping air out of the MC, just don't let it drop below the minimum line while you're bleeding. I just used a cheapie Harbor Freight Pneumatic bleeder, but wasn't happy w/ the amount of vacuum I was getting so just had the wife do the pedal pressing. But the cheapie bleeder came w/ a great Brake fluid bottle w/ valve that you just fill up w/ new fluid, put the adapter on the end to fit the Infiniti MC snugly, then invert the bottle, open the valve and it automatically keeps your fluid at the proper level via gravity displacement. Not that it's needed if you've got a helper, just keep an eye on the fluid level and add as needed and you won't get air in there.
Good Luck!

ZEUS10

Completed the process and now I have a ticking noise when I brake or drive a low speeds. I read somewhere that I had to depressurize the ABS before I start bleeding the brakes?!?!?! Did I have to do this? If so, how? I though if I disconnected the (-neg) batt cable the ABS would be off and I could bleed safely. I don't know why I now have this ticking noise? It happened right after I bled the lines. Any advice before I take it to my local rip-off, no-knowledge Infiniti dealer?

Ughhhhhhh

Swindler37

So what happened with this?

Surfnazi

Just remember brake fluid will eat car paint. And you can mix dot 3 and 4 but not 5

Surfnazi

Sounds like piston seal might be going bad

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Unlikely you'll get a response.. User hasn't been on in almost 6 years, not to mention thread is from 2013!

I flush every 2 years using the motive power bleeder. Never touched the abs unit or disconnected the battery. No issues. I suppose if air got into the abs somehow then you'd have to use a tool that permits for cycling of the abs unit during bleeding.