Goonz

iTrader: (9)

Guys I'm replacing my brakes this week and just wanted to know the torque specs for the caliper bolts along with the wheel lugs. Also any pointers when doing the install? I've done the brakes one my previous G37S Coupe (bbk) and those were a pita to do so I'm hoping the ones on my sedan would be a bit easy hopefully. The package I got are crentric premium rotors front and back along with hawk HPS pads all around. The mileage on my car is 32k so hopefully these brakes will last me till the end of my lease (Feb. 2015.)

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Goonz, here's the entire service manual for 2012 G sedans, not sure how much of it is for the X but most manual apply, I know the brakes will be the same.
Index of /FSM/G37/Sedan/2012
Here's the brake section, just be sure to follow 2 piston caliper instructions for the front and single piston caliper for the rear.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G37/Sedan/2012/BR.pdf
If you see a white wrench symbol on a white nut the last number in the sequence is ft. lbs. If it's a black wrench and black nut it's inch lbs.
I just did my brakes last week and I believe the front caliper bolts are 91 ft lbs and the rear 62.
My Stoptech pads had shims on the pad so I didn't need the oem shims, I applied caliper grease to the area where the pad rests on the caliper and in the sliders. I used DOT 4 fluis and went through about 24 oz to get fresh fluid dripping out the bleeders. Bleeding sequence is
passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front. I used PB blast on all the rotors (the studs and hub/rotor mating area) let it soak 15 minutes then blasted them w/ a rubber mallet. Mine's an 09 so yours may come off a bit easier. The back ones were easy but the fronts were a PITA. Be sure your emergency brake shoes are centered prior to replacing the new rotor. Lastly, be sure to bed your pads as per Hawks recommendations.
HTHs

Goonz

iTrader: (9)

Great info, much appreciated!

I do have AP-Racing DOT-4 fluid that I meant to use on my previous sport coupe but never did so I'll have the dealership use that and do the flush since I don't have the equipment to bleed brakes and don't want to mess that part up. Also when you say centering the e-brake shoes, what does that mean? I've never done that before..

Also for those wondering what the correct bed-in instructions are per Hawk pads

1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Sometimes when you pull off the rear rotors the e-brake shoes will get off kilter, just need to make sure they're centered up prior to replacing rotor.
That's a much easier bed-in than my Stoptechs, that was (10) 60-10 aggressive slow downs followed by a running cool down (again without fully stopping) then one more round of (10) 60-10 slow downs. Damn rotors got so hot that it vaporized almost all the black zinc paint

Goonz

iTrader: (9)

okay cool I will keep a look out, hopefully everything goes smoothly tomorrow. I'm getting the brake system flushed by Infiniti Friday so hopefully they wont make a fuss about me providing them with brake fluid. I'm providing them with AP Racing DOT 5.1 fluid that I had origionally purchased for my previous sport coupe brakes, this should still work for the stocker brakes right?

I read AP racing's disclaimer so now I'm not too sure whether I should use it or not, it states All AP Racing Brake Fluids are Polyalkalene Glycol Ether based and are not a silicone based fluid. AP Racing do not sell and do not recommend using a silicone based brake fluid with any of its products.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

I've read DOT 4 is the highest temp fluid you should use in stock setups, but not sure what harm would be caused by going DOT 5

Goonz

iTrader: (9)

awesome, wish me luck tomorrow!