Help Kw v3 owners
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I'll be doing mine exactly like that. Didn't think of it but it makes too much sense not to. 
It doesnt necessarily have to be done on the vehicle, that's just how it's shown in this photo. That nut can be tightened with the strut unit off of the car, but you'll need to find a way to hold the assembly firm and stable while you are using both hands on the wrenches. A bench vise would work. But mostly it's easier to get that top nut started on the rod and tighten it down until the rod starts to spin. Then mount it in the car (so the car is holding it in place) and finish torquing it down. At least that's how I do it, it's not necessarily the only way or best way. Just what works easiest for me.
The rubber stop should be used. You will still be able to go very low without it. Not sure who mentioned/suggested not using 
. Install is very easy... PM me if you run into any issues. GL!
. Install is very easy... PM me if you run into any issues. GL!
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From: Florida
Just installed my KW v3 along with front and rear camber kits today. For the rear spring, you will need to use the bottom OEM rubber cushion (NOT the rubber cone at the top of OEM spring). Like BB said, you probably will need an impact wrench for the bolts on the front suspension. Use the scissor jack under the suspension to align them into the holes.
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Thanks for all the input. Ok good with the front but I am having a hard time (understatement) with the rear. I can't seem to align the rear spring tray enough to get the bolt through...any advice?
Put a jack under the lower arm and raise it into place so the holes line up. If they're not perfect, use something like a sturdy screwdriver to line it up. Start the bolt and tap it with a rubber dead blow hammer to get it started. Be careful because just cause one side is lined up doesn't mean the other is. Once it's started, it may not go all the way through. They you have to look at the tip of it and see where it's misaligned. Adjust the jack and wrestle with the rotor wiggling it up/down forward/backward until you get it lined up. Use the dead blow hammer to bang on the rotor edges to get it to adjust where you want it for the holes to line up. Not a metal hammer. Then use the hammer again and tap the bolt head until it comes through.
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Thanks for the tip BB. Everything you said is exactly what I've done. I think the problem is that I didn't jacked the car up high enough onto the jack stands; I have them at the lowest height so I can't really get underneath it the way i'd like to do manipulate it. I got no where with it this evening so ill have at it again in the am. I had Tanabe's before I went to Stance, I should have been prepared for this but I totally forgot about it because stance was such an easier install
Put a jack under the lower arm and raise it into place so the holes line up. If they're not perfect, use something like a sturdy screwdriver to line it up. Start the bolt and tap it with a rubber dead blow hammer to get it started. Be careful because just cause one side is lined up doesn't mean the other is. Once it's started, it may not go all the way through. They you have to look at the tip of it and see where it's misaligned. Adjust the jack and wrestle with the rotor wiggling it up/down forward/backward until you get it lined up. Use the dead blow hammer to bang on the rotor edges to get it to adjust where you want it for the holes to line up. Not a metal hammer. Then use the hammer again and tap the bolt head until it comes through.
Good to know you got your questions resolved. What's your ride height now? I left my rear bottom rubber and I played with it once going super low and I think I got 24" on 19's with 30 series tires.
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