Review Stoptech D/S Rotors, Goodridge SS Brake Lines, Hawk Ceramic brake pads (pics)
10-11-2011, 04:07 PM
#1
Stoptech D/S Rotors, Goodridge SS Brake Lines, Hawk Ceramic brake pads (pics)
Just wanted to throw a quick review out as I recently have installed that of which is mentioned in the title...
First of all, Big thanks to John at JEB Performance where I have gotten nearly all of my performance/suspension parts from. Great guy, great service, great prices! If I were you guys, I would ALWAYS check with him on anything you are about to order!
To put it simply:
SS brake lines: These were the most noticeable difference. The brake is an immediate response and a very conrtolled pressure throughout. It is a much better feel over the OEM lines
Hawk Ceramic brake pads: Seem to do their job very well and their job is not just to aid in stopping, but to also produce less brake dust and they do just that. Good product, definitely reccomend!
Stoptech Drilled and Slotted Rotors: These feel strong and smooth through the stop. I barely drive my car, let alone track it but the best thing I can say about these rotors is that they are an aesthetic upgrade and they have a better feel and most likely a better stopping ability than the OEM rotors (I will not speak in absolutes as I never performed a braking test with my OEM vs. current setup). The biggest thing; they are not too much more than the cost to put new OEM rotors on your car. I believe this upgrade is worth it. If you are not into the drilled and slotted, regular Stoptech rotors will save you even more money and work similar in stopping power with the specific purposes of drilled or slotted obviously absent.
Stoptech Cons:
-I do not believe you will save any weight over the OEM, I do not think they are heavier by any means, but I would not say lighter either. I did not have the ability to weigh them at the shop though.
-I can already see the line where they will begin rusting and there is literally nothing that you can do about it. My car never sees rain and I still cannot prevent it as it does get washed and the shavings alone I believe would be enough to make it rust... (does anyone know if painting them with high heat paint on the area that pad does not reach would work?)
Overall: I would recommend all products to those that asked me BUT my next set of Rotors will most likely be dba. I will stick with the Hawk Ceramics though. The main reason is that I would like to save some weight over stock and although about twice as much $$$ dba rotors seem to be a quality product that are worth a try.
Pics:
Muteki closed end neo chrome lugs if any one is wondering.
First of all, Big thanks to John at JEB Performance where I have gotten nearly all of my performance/suspension parts from. Great guy, great service, great prices! If I were you guys, I would ALWAYS check with him on anything you are about to order!
To put it simply:
SS brake lines: These were the most noticeable difference. The brake is an immediate response and a very conrtolled pressure throughout. It is a much better feel over the OEM lines
Hawk Ceramic brake pads: Seem to do their job very well and their job is not just to aid in stopping, but to also produce less brake dust and they do just that. Good product, definitely reccomend!
Stoptech Drilled and Slotted Rotors: These feel strong and smooth through the stop. I barely drive my car, let alone track it but the best thing I can say about these rotors is that they are an aesthetic upgrade and they have a better feel and most likely a better stopping ability than the OEM rotors (I will not speak in absolutes as I never performed a braking test with my OEM vs. current setup). The biggest thing; they are not too much more than the cost to put new OEM rotors on your car. I believe this upgrade is worth it. If you are not into the drilled and slotted, regular Stoptech rotors will save you even more money and work similar in stopping power with the specific purposes of drilled or slotted obviously absent.
Stoptech Cons:
-I do not believe you will save any weight over the OEM, I do not think they are heavier by any means, but I would not say lighter either. I did not have the ability to weigh them at the shop though.
-I can already see the line where they will begin rusting and there is literally nothing that you can do about it. My car never sees rain and I still cannot prevent it as it does get washed and the shavings alone I believe would be enough to make it rust... (does anyone know if painting them with high heat paint on the area that pad does not reach would work?)
Overall: I would recommend all products to those that asked me BUT my next set of Rotors will most likely be dba. I will stick with the Hawk Ceramics though. The main reason is that I would like to save some weight over stock and although about twice as much $$$ dba rotors seem to be a quality product that are worth a try.
Pics:
Muteki closed end neo chrome lugs if any one is wondering.
10-11-2011, 04:53 PM
#2
Administrator
Great review thanks for the write up! What bedding-in procedure did you go with?
10-11-2011, 05:01 PM
#3
Chi-City if you are worried about rust. After car wash, and once a month. Apply Brake Cleaner. Any auto shop like Pep Boys, or auto zone carry them. Cost is less than $5.
Also they come with nozzle extension so you don't even have to remove the wheels to clean your rotors.
The squeaky noise usually are result of dust build up between pads and the rotors. So regular use of brake cleaner have added benefits.
Also they come with nozzle extension so you don't even have to remove the wheels to clean your rotors.
The squeaky noise usually are result of dust build up between pads and the rotors. So regular use of brake cleaner have added benefits.
10-11-2011, 05:40 PM
#4
Chi-City if you are worried about rust. After car wash, and once a month. Apply Brake Cleaner. Any auto shop like Pep Boys, or auto zone carry them. Cost is less than $5.
Also they come with nozzle extension so you don't even have to remove the wheels to clean your rotors.
The squeaky noise usually are result of dust build up between pads and the rotors. So regular use of brake cleaner have added benefits.
Also they come with nozzle extension so you don't even have to remove the wheels to clean your rotors.
The squeaky noise usually are result of dust build up between pads and the rotors. So regular use of brake cleaner have added benefits.
)
10-11-2011, 05:59 PM
#5
Administrator
Thanks Sam, A series of controlled stops was the attempted bed-in... It was not exact and it was not as easy due to the fact that I did not have a controlled environment. I am not sure if my shop performed any though... I was not instructed to do so by anyone involved in this replacement so my hope is that what I have done is sufficient. Is there any way to have a better idea if my bed-in was proper? It just seems like such an in-exact science...
10-11-2011, 06:50 PM
#7
IMO best way to bed in properly is as following.
Late night or very early morning, I like to bed in my brakes returning home from clubbing. LOL.
On the freeway make sure to check your mirror to see if car is coming from behind. Also check for police cars in front. Especially if you had some drink.
60mph hard brake to 40mph 3x time
80mph hard brake to 60mph 3x time
and you are done
If done properly you will see dark blue glow on your rotors. Coated uniformly.
Late night or very early morning, I like to bed in my brakes returning home from clubbing. LOL.
On the freeway make sure to check your mirror to see if car is coming from behind. Also check for police cars in front. Especially if you had some drink.
60mph hard brake to 40mph 3x time
80mph hard brake to 60mph 3x time
and you are done
If done properly you will see dark blue glow on your rotors. Coated uniformly.
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10-12-2011, 11:13 AM
#8
Haha ^ I just saw this response, Interesting for sure but thank you for the advise. A dark blue glow coated uniformly though? I guess I am not sure what you mean by this... Or I guess how much you need to drink to see this 
I kid, but could you explain this further as it seems very useful information for an indication of a proper bed-in.
I kid, but could you explain this further as it seems very useful information for an indication of a proper bed-in.
10-12-2011, 05:17 PM
#9
The reason for bedding your brakes.
Evenly coat your rotors surface with brake pad compound. As with knife blade. Under microscope rotor surface is not even. Only when properly bedded compounds from brake pad will melt and fill gaps on rotor surface. As a result you have smoother rotor surface that are subject for even temperature fluctuation.
Well as with Dark Blue glow. You will only see if you would take your car to racing track. Under constant heavy and late braking. You will find your rotors to glow giving out beautiful dark blue, after few sessions. Some what like Heat treated exhaust tips.
The reason for brake rotors to warp premature. Main reason is due to uneven coating of pad compound. Areas on your rotor unseen from naked eye. With less brake compound coated. Tend to heat up more than areas with evenly coated brake pad compound. Thus heating up into a spiral warp shape eating into your rotor. Changing molecular structure of your rotor surface. If left untreated will eat into inside of your rotor like cancer. Making impossible to treat with resurfacing. This is why severe warped rotors even with re-surfacing, after few months symptoms will re-appear.
Drills on rotor will keep the temperature down, less temperature fluctuation. Slots will keep your pads to retain even surface. Shaving bits off as you brake. So Drilled/Slotted are not entirely bullet proof against warping. But with proper care you will enjoy the looks and the performance.
Evenly coat your rotors surface with brake pad compound. As with knife blade. Under microscope rotor surface is not even. Only when properly bedded compounds from brake pad will melt and fill gaps on rotor surface. As a result you have smoother rotor surface that are subject for even temperature fluctuation.
Well as with Dark Blue glow. You will only see if you would take your car to racing track. Under constant heavy and late braking. You will find your rotors to glow giving out beautiful dark blue, after few sessions. Some what like Heat treated exhaust tips.
The reason for brake rotors to warp premature. Main reason is due to uneven coating of pad compound. Areas on your rotor unseen from naked eye. With less brake compound coated. Tend to heat up more than areas with evenly coated brake pad compound. Thus heating up into a spiral warp shape eating into your rotor. Changing molecular structure of your rotor surface. If left untreated will eat into inside of your rotor like cancer. Making impossible to treat with resurfacing. This is why severe warped rotors even with re-surfacing, after few months symptoms will re-appear.
Drills on rotor will keep the temperature down, less temperature fluctuation. Slots will keep your pads to retain even surface. Shaving bits off as you brake. So Drilled/Slotted are not entirely bullet proof against warping. But with proper care you will enjoy the looks and the performance.
10-12-2011, 05:49 PM
#10
^ very very interesting
my stock rotors have a history of premature warping. dealership machined it down, though. since my rotors are not new can i go ahead and use some brake cleaner and then follow up with this compound and follow your bed-in process? where do you get this compound?
my stock rotors have a history of premature warping. dealership machined it down, though. since my rotors are not new can i go ahead and use some brake cleaner and then follow up with this compound and follow your bed-in process? where do you get this compound?
10-12-2011, 07:04 PM
#11
^ very very interesting
my stock rotors have a history of premature warping. dealership machined it down, though.
since my rotors are not new can i go ahead and use some brake cleaner and then follow up with this compound and follow your bed-in process?
where do you get this compound?
10-12-2011, 10:20 PM
#12
Nice review! I've been contemplating these for a while but that rust ring that they seem to form is a deal breaker for me. for some good weight savings, look into the CZP front rotors, I believe they are 10lbs lighter than OEM/Stoptech. They don't currently have rear ones though (working on them). I believe the DBA 4000 front only will save you 5 lbs over OEM but I don't now what the figure is on the DBA 5000.
10-12-2011, 10:49 PM
#13
I am going to get some cleaner and clean them religiously and I will keep everyone posted on how it goes. I am unfortunately running out of time before the dreaded storage... So next season will be the true test. I will still check them and clean them throughout storage as well though but I am sure fighting rust that way will be tough. We will see though.
BTW, thank you again John and thank you for all of the knowledge that you share with this forum. This thread and many others!
BTW, thank you again John and thank you for all of the knowledge that you share with this forum. This thread and many others!
10-13-2011, 02:30 PM
#14
Most rotors have surface finish to be rust free. Only during stocking phase. However as soon as the protective surface finish is worn off. You will see surface rust to build. They are not harmful, just nasty to look at them.
With blank rotors obviously you will not have the same problem. Since your pads will clean the rust regularly when you brake.
Even DBA or any other brand are not entirely 100% rust free. Even with DBA's hand finished surface. After 10K miles of use you will encounter surface rust.
Only bullet proof rust free rotors in this planet are Premium rotors from Stoptech. they are not drilled nor slotted. But electro-coating finish that provides lasting corrosion protection. Even if you dip the rotors on salt water. You will not see rust for at least 400 hours.
With blank rotors obviously you will not have the same problem. Since your pads will clean the rust regularly when you brake.
Even DBA or any other brand are not entirely 100% rust free. Even with DBA's hand finished surface. After 10K miles of use you will encounter surface rust.
Only bullet proof rust free rotors in this planet are Premium rotors from Stoptech. they are not drilled nor slotted. But electro-coating finish that provides lasting corrosion protection. Even if you dip the rotors on salt water. You will not see rust for at least 400 hours.
10-17-2011, 08:40 AM
#15
Registered User
Do any one know the weigh of the stoptech rotor? I heard frozen rotor are good and cheap ,but the weigh 31 pound I believe that is almost the same as the OEM discs .