hadokenuh

So I need to replace my rear pads soon (yeah my rear ones wear out faster than front) and possibly front rotors+pads due to brake vibration which dealer is not willing to replace under the TSB.

I am looking for something that's quiet/smooth/durable, bites well (like the OEM) and doesn't break my bank. It doesn't have to be super duper high performance. I don't track or race. Please also suggest where to get it as well. I searched the forum and didn't find much info for non-sport model so here I am.

Thanks in advance!

Mike

iTrader: (1)

My recommendation is that if you're gonna change pads, that you at least turn the rear rotors, or replace them.

Front rotors can be any of your choice; my personal belief is to use the cheapest possible unless you're looking for some bling. Two piece rotors are lighter, but cost more, and you're unlikely to go through enough to make it cheaper in the long run, especially since you stated that you don't track or race.

As for pads, I personally like the Project Mu NS for strictly street use, or the Carbotech 1521, also strictly for street use.

If you want to go one step up, you can consider the Project Mu B-force, or Carbotech AX6.

movinon

Some people think they are improving performance by switching to racing pads, they normally wont work as well as regular pads under normal driving conditions. They are designed to work under higher temperatures which would be the norm when racing.
The same thing applies to racing oil.
I know you didn't say you were thinking of racing pads, but when owners have to replace certain wear items they sometimes think they might as well replace them with racing items and their car will perform that much better.

Mike

iTrader: (1)

This statement is so misleading... what you read on the internet, and what actually is, are two different things.

I street drive on "racing pads" and "racing oil" with nary a problem. Overkill for the average bear? Of course, but it wont hurt anything more than your wallet.

hadokenuh

Thanks but are you saying the cheapest rotors are better than the OEM? The reason I don't want to go OEM is because it gets warped very easily.

For the pads, can I get those at a local Autozone/NAPA store?

ipitythefoo

iTrader: (8)

Mike your brakes are loud as hell too! Hurts my ears!

Damn Dirty Ape

iTrader: (16)

I'd recommend something close to what came on it, unless you are unhappy with the current performance. Akebono Pro-ACT Premium Ceramics.

Amazon.com: Akebono ACT888 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set: Automotive

Amazon.com: Akebono ACT905 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set: Automotive

These are for 2010 and 2011 ACT 888 and ACT905. Non-sport brakes in this application.

ozzypriest

iTrader: (2)

Try hawk pads and centric rotors from tirerack.

movinon

Try doing some research. Racing pads and racing oils are designed to be used on vehicles under racing conditions where your oil and brakes are consistently operated at higher temperatures then normal driving.
Racing oils will not lube as well and racing pads will not operate as they are designed until your vehicle reaches racing type temperatures.
This is almost the same as using premium gas in a vehicle that isn't designed for it.

hadokenuh

These look interesting. What's the difference between ACT888 and ACT905?

Also while I was one there, I selected year/make/model but I didn't see any sport/non-sport options. How can I be sure it says non-sport?

Thanks!

Damn Dirty Ape

iTrader: (16)

The above are non-sport, and the two numbers are front and back pads. The 888's are front and the 905 are the rears.

hadokenuh

Great! Thanks for your help. Looking at the description for the 905:

"What's in the Box
4-Akebono ProACT Ultra-Premium ceramic brake pads."

So does it come with 2 set of rear?? I am confused?!


I am probably going to order these unless someone else has other suggestions. I looked at hawk pads but saw mixed reviews so I am not too sure.

sniper27

iTrader: (2)

2 sets. 1 set for each side.

Mike

iTrader: (1)

Internet research aka hearsay, and actual research, are two different things.

We'll start with oil.

-"Racing oil" supposedly doesn't have the detergents that regular oil has. Proven wrong by UOA. It does indeed have the detergents. You can't buy specifically contracted oils for F1 off the shelf.

-"Racing oil" operates at higher temperatures than regular oil. Proven wrong by the fact that all engines operate at roughly the same temperature; water has the highest specific heat of any known substance, and is used to cool the engine regardless of whether it is a racing engine or not. Additionally, "racing oil" is available in a wide range of viscosities, including those acceptable in "regular cars"


Pads

- "racing pads" supposedly only operate at high temp. Proven wrong by a simple friction graph from virtually all pad manufacturers. Project Mu 999 pads are a sintered metal full race compound. At room temperature, which is far under the normal operating temperature of a "race pad", it still has a friction coefficient that is over 50% higher than a street pad. Does it stop the car as well as if it had been in its normal operating range? No. Does it stop the car better than a street pad? Hell yes. Same goes for virtually every "racing pad" available. The exceptions to this are some endurance compounds, which are specifically made to last for extended use under extreme conditions.


Did you know, F1 brakes operate at lower temperatures than what you can hit on pretty much any stock production car in a single stop?



I daily drive on "racing oil" and "racing pads", and have plenty of hard evidence to dispute internet hearsay.

james0076ss

iTrader: (1)

Akebono ProACT ceramic are good brakes! Great stopping preformance, quiet, low dust. Previously had Hawk HPS and they screeched like a school bus and had that nasty soft pedel feel. They where only used for 5k and in the trash they went. Switching to Akebono was like night and day.