Years ago I was battling a constant water leak that was not the sunroof drain. Ended up being the windshield cowl seals that had corroded/ deteriorated. Every time it rained, water would flow under the cowl and right onto the cabin air filter which ends up flooding the blower box and, ultimately, the passenger floor.


Tired of dealing with silicone, backer rod, and butyl tapes to try to seal the cowl to the glass (which always failed), I ended up taking a case from a old iPad, trimming it to fit between the firewall and the battery "hold down" threaded rod, and let it act as a cover for that damn opening. This way, any water that leaks past the cowl will, ultimately, hit the cover and drain away from that opening. I do not have pics of the actual cover in use as I have not opened the cowl (but will in time).

The irony is that on the older G35's, the plastic intake duct has a shroud over it to prevent this very thing. Learned this after the fact...

Edited 25 Dec '23 to add: This post explains the iPad Cover trick in detail, with pics.

 

Thanks, and just to clarify, you don't need a replacement firewall grommet (74816-JU40B) anymore because you aren't feeding the hose to the firewall grommet (74816-JU40B) anymore right??

 

Correct. I actually left my original there. I just pulled the hose off it.

 

Is it necessary to take apart the car this thoroughly to perform this sunroof drain hose mod for both sides? I didn't expect you to remove the dash, both front seats, all the extra carpeting etc. I might not have enough $$ to pay the guy I've enlisted for help, lol, so I might have to skip driver side and just do the mod for front passenger side...... if you are cleaning the car and checking for mold/mildew then I guess it makes sense (I need to do this myself, but can't find anyone willing to help me deconstruct the car like you have done so), but if it's just to replace hosing is this absolutely necessary????

 

oh no, definitely not. I just had it out because i had to clean up the water that was sitting. Mine was clogged and leaking bad.

you only need to remove the A pillar. I see you're commenting in the other thread. There was another tutorial shared where the guy only did the a pillar.

i wanted to completely replace the whole hose, that's why I removed my headliner. its definitely not needed

 

Good to know, and makes sense. What was the reason for replacing the default hose if it wasn't a faulty hose? Just wanted to put in brand new hosing, I guess?
Do you know how much longer it takes to do the hose attachment -> AC mod on the driver side? I'm guessing remove driver side A-pillar, vent, maybe dash??
I'm trying to budget time and money to see if passenger side can be done in 1-2 hours, driver side 1-2 hours for a total of 2-4 hours, or if it's going to take 4+ hours for both sides.

 

yea, i wanted to completely replace the whole hose with 1 continuous one. I was just being extra. lol

dash stays, doesn't need to be removed. you don't have to remove the vent either. Once you remove the A pillar, you'll see where you can install the barb fitting to connect the new hose.

You can route the hose down the same location and you'll see it

 

Not to highjack your thread but figured I would share it here since this post was helpful to me. it looks like the part has been superseded again ​​​​​​​

i could no longer get the older one since the dealer didn't have it in stock and this was all that could be ordered

New part has a flap

and straight port

 

Your not hijacking anything, thank you for posting this!

I am really not sure what the point of that flap is.... I am guessing since they removed the inner baffle they needed an odd substitute (does not seem needed)?

Interesting to see the new one is made in the USA, instead of China.

Did not take long for them to update it.

Thanks for showing this!

 

This makes what, the 4th, 5th redesign of the thing? So simple and they still can not get it right.

Unless they improved the gasket (should have made it butyl) this will eventually leak as well.

I won't beat the dead horse into the ground: forget these pieces, bypass the damn thing and be done with it.

Thanks for sharing, however.

 

Seems this explains the reason why they have a flap on it for part: 74816-6SA0A.

TSB: NTB23-072

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...45154-0001.pdf

 

So the latest part is #74816-6SAOA correct?
Or is it #74816-JU40D?

I believe it’s the first one 74816-6SAOA. But I’m trying to verify.

 

You want: 74816-6SA0A now, it is the latest.

 

...for now...

 

thanks, sounds good