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This should be sticky'd somewhere here. Now that there is a superceeded part and this part shares some of the designs folks end up making with the original ones.
It has now been moved into the tech area/Interior group.
Hopefully this will help others that are suffering from this.
In addition, when performing this type of job you should carry a set of really long needle nose pliers, Nissan/Toyota/Mopar/Honda OEM RTV, dawn power scrub, rags, pipe cleaners and most importantly a 6ft piece of metal wire (copper, aluminum, tin, etc) The process should start with a some dawn down the tubes. Wrapping a few pipe cleaners to the piece of metal wire will clean the inside of the tube properly. This type of clean will ensure any mildew,debris,dirt from not letting the tube dry over time and will show you if the pocket that the roof drains is clean. A leak in the pocket would leak from the end of the floor however this area is supposed to be sealed (keep this in mind). Pull out the old grommet and tube. Clean and dry the tube and with a bead of OEM RTV place the new grommet in the tube and then back onto its place.
For assurance purposes, in 24hrs you should perform a drain test with some water flow through the drains only once confirmed you should do a monsoon test to continue following the leak if there is one after the fix.
It has now been moved into the tech area/Interior group.
Hopefully this will help others that are suffering from this.
In addition, when performing this type of job you should carry a set of really long needle nose pliers, Nissan/Toyota/Mopar/Honda OEM RTV, dawn power scrub, rags, pipe cleaners and most importantly a 6ft piece of metal wire (copper, aluminum, tin, etc) The process should start with a some dawn down the tubes. Wrapping a few pipe cleaners to the piece of metal wire will clean the inside of the tube properly. This type of clean will ensure any mildew,debris,dirt from not letting the tube dry over time and will show you if the pocket that the roof drains is clean. A leak in the pocket would leak from the end of the floor however this area is supposed to be sealed (keep this in mind). Pull out the old grommet and tube. Clean and dry the tube and with a bead of OEM RTV place the new grommet in the tube and then back onto its place.
For assurance purposes, in 24hrs you should perform a drain test with some water flow through the drains only once confirmed you should do a monsoon test to continue following the leak if there is one after the fix.
In an ironic turn of events. My front passenger side grommet failed: 74816-JU40B, this was put in over 2 years ago and it failed through the side locking tab (seal failed). Put the new updated ones in, goes to show you what a crap design it was.
Oh joy. I’m so excited for mine to eventually fail again. Thanks Nissan….
Yes, no fun. Mine was leaking slowly. And I had a mildew / mold smell, well turns out it was leaking slowly for months and got mold because of it on the sound insulation. I thought it was from the AC system. But one day I lifted the floor mat which was a little wet underneath, then I lifted the carpet and there it was.
how hard is the drivers side to get to? Isn't the seal on the new design the same as the old? Would it stand to reason those would fail similarly as well?
how hard is the drivers side to get to? Isn't the seal on the new design the same as the old? Would it stand to reason those would fail similarly as well?
The new design extends past the firewall, there is also no chance of water leaking through the side tabs causing the seal to prematurely fail. Which leads to water leaking down the firewall.
Would it not have been feasible to just exit the new longer hoses through the factory locations also?
i am sure its possibly, you'd have to find a grommet to cover the sides to keep water out.
its was much easier for me to route the hose under the dash to the AC drain. I don't have a long enough needle know to remove the drain valve, so i didn't bother.
re: extending a hose past the firewall...
In theory you could extend the hose through the firewall, however, in that area there are numerous pinch welds which will make it tricky to navigate the hose through- especially without risk of cutting same with all that bare sheet metal. That is IF you could get a long pair of needle nose pliers under that "ledge" to grab the hose and pull it through.
THEN, you would have to be sure to extend the hose all the way to the bottom of the car. As you can see, there are a few electronics in that area not including the firewall wiring harness that also has a shady history of leaks (typically when modified).
For me, on my Coupe it was impossible to extend the hoses so I just went with the AC drain and called it a day. That, and the iPad cover trick for the cabin air filter, and years later not a drop of water since- even during the 5" of rain we had this past Sunday. Everyone has their own method to madness. My 10¢? Do the AC drain route and save yourself a ton of aggravation.
