Sunroof Drain Grommets - Updated Part # 74816-JU40D
#17
Moderador
It has now been moved into the tech area/Interior group.
Hopefully this will help others that are suffering from this.
In addition, when performing this type of job you should carry a set of really long needle nose pliers, Nissan/Toyota/Mopar/Honda OEM RTV, dawn power scrub, rags, pipe cleaners and most importantly a 6ft piece of metal wire (copper, aluminum, tin, etc) The process should start with a some dawn down the tubes. Wrapping a few pipe cleaners to the piece of metal wire will clean the inside of the tube properly. This type of clean will ensure any mildew,debris,dirt from not letting the tube dry over time and will show you if the pocket that the roof drains is clean. A leak in the pocket would leak from the end of the floor however this area is supposed to be sealed (keep this in mind). Pull out the old grommet and tube. Clean and dry the tube and with a bead of OEM RTV place the new grommet in the tube and then back onto its place.
For assurance purposes, in 24hrs you should perform a drain test with some water flow through the drains only once confirmed you should do a monsoon test to continue following the leak if there is one after the fix.
Thanks again @Krzysztof47
Hopefully this will help others that are suffering from this.
In addition, when performing this type of job you should carry a set of really long needle nose pliers, Nissan/Toyota/Mopar/Honda OEM RTV, dawn power scrub, rags, pipe cleaners and most importantly a 6ft piece of metal wire (copper, aluminum, tin, etc) The process should start with a some dawn down the tubes. Wrapping a few pipe cleaners to the piece of metal wire will clean the inside of the tube properly. This type of clean will ensure any mildew,debris,dirt from not letting the tube dry over time and will show you if the pocket that the roof drains is clean. A leak in the pocket would leak from the end of the floor however this area is supposed to be sealed (keep this in mind). Pull out the old grommet and tube. Clean and dry the tube and with a bead of OEM RTV place the new grommet in the tube and then back onto its place.
For assurance purposes, in 24hrs you should perform a drain test with some water flow through the drains only once confirmed you should do a monsoon test to continue following the leak if there is one after the fix.
Thanks again @Krzysztof47
The following 2 users liked this post by BULL:
Krzysztof47 (04-05-2023),
Rochester (04-04-2023)
#18
It has now been moved into the tech area/Interior group.
Hopefully this will help others that are suffering from this.
In addition, when performing this type of job you should carry a set of really long needle nose pliers, Nissan/Toyota/Mopar/Honda OEM RTV, dawn power scrub, rags, pipe cleaners and most importantly a 6ft piece of metal wire (copper, aluminum, tin, etc) The process should start with a some dawn down the tubes. Wrapping a few pipe cleaners to the piece of metal wire will clean the inside of the tube properly. This type of clean will ensure any mildew,debris,dirt from not letting the tube dry over time and will show you if the pocket that the roof drains is clean. A leak in the pocket would leak from the end of the floor however this area is supposed to be sealed (keep this in mind). Pull out the old grommet and tube. Clean and dry the tube and with a bead of OEM RTV place the new grommet in the tube and then back onto its place.
For assurance purposes, in 24hrs you should perform a drain test with some water flow through the drains only once confirmed you should do a monsoon test to continue following the leak if there is one after the fix.
Thanks again @Krzysztof47
Hopefully this will help others that are suffering from this.
In addition, when performing this type of job you should carry a set of really long needle nose pliers, Nissan/Toyota/Mopar/Honda OEM RTV, dawn power scrub, rags, pipe cleaners and most importantly a 6ft piece of metal wire (copper, aluminum, tin, etc) The process should start with a some dawn down the tubes. Wrapping a few pipe cleaners to the piece of metal wire will clean the inside of the tube properly. This type of clean will ensure any mildew,debris,dirt from not letting the tube dry over time and will show you if the pocket that the roof drains is clean. A leak in the pocket would leak from the end of the floor however this area is supposed to be sealed (keep this in mind). Pull out the old grommet and tube. Clean and dry the tube and with a bead of OEM RTV place the new grommet in the tube and then back onto its place.
For assurance purposes, in 24hrs you should perform a drain test with some water flow through the drains only once confirmed you should do a monsoon test to continue following the leak if there is one after the fix.
Thanks again @Krzysztof47
#21
Yes, no fun. Mine was leaking slowly. And I had a mildew / mold smell, well turns out it was leaking slowly for months and got mold because of it on the sound insulation. I thought it was from the AC system. But one day I lifted the floor mat which was a little wet underneath, then I lifted the carpet and there it was.
#22
I made a post on how to do the rear drains for the sedan: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...of-drains.html
The following users liked this post:
Zack342 (12-20-2023)
The following 2 users liked this post by projectpanda13:
Krzysztof47 (12-20-2023),
Zack342 (12-20-2023)
#29
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
re: extending a hose past the firewall...
In theory you could extend the hose through the firewall, however, in that area there are numerous pinch welds which will make it tricky to navigate the hose through- especially without risk of cutting same with all that bare sheet metal. That is IF you could get a long pair of needle nose pliers under that "ledge" to grab the hose and pull it through.
THEN, you would have to be sure to extend the hose all the way to the bottom of the car. As you can see, there are a few electronics in that area not including the firewall wiring harness that also has a shady history of leaks (typically when modified).
For me, on my Coupe it was impossible to extend the hoses so I just went with the AC drain and called it a day. That, and the iPad cover trick for the cabin air filter, and years later not a drop of water since- even during the 5" of rain we had this past Sunday. Everyone has their own method to madness. My 10¢? Do the AC drain route and save yourself a ton of aggravation.
In theory you could extend the hose through the firewall, however, in that area there are numerous pinch welds which will make it tricky to navigate the hose through- especially without risk of cutting same with all that bare sheet metal. That is IF you could get a long pair of needle nose pliers under that "ledge" to grab the hose and pull it through.
THEN, you would have to be sure to extend the hose all the way to the bottom of the car. As you can see, there are a few electronics in that area not including the firewall wiring harness that also has a shady history of leaks (typically when modified).
For me, on my Coupe it was impossible to extend the hoses so I just went with the AC drain and called it a day. That, and the iPad cover trick for the cabin air filter, and years later not a drop of water since- even during the 5" of rain we had this past Sunday. Everyone has their own method to madness. My 10¢? Do the AC drain route and save yourself a ton of aggravation.