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Is it possible to (or reasonably doable) to unreel the seatbelt to remove / slide out the trim pieces at the top?
Are you talking about the rear seat belts? I took all the trim panels out of the whole car, the rear side window trim panels are a PAIN and the various clips are really easy to break, and its tough to find replacements that aren't broken. Doing that however was really easy then to remove the rear seat belts, but in my opinion and if I had to do over again, I'd leave the rear side window trim panels in place and do my best to work around them. There isn't much area to put any material in the first place given the side curtain air bags and other various wires that run through there. I'd just pull the rear seats and lower panels and cover as much area as you can reach. Hope that helps.
No, I meant for front seatbelts can you take them out and unwind them from the reel at the bottom so you can slide the belt out of the beige trim at the top to either paint it or replace it.
I have the entire car stripped already but yea, the rear was kind of a pain.
@KidJai06 Great stuff. Thanks for the info. I guess that answers my question and I’ll be opening that up too. As far as the trunk, I feel that if I get a good mlv seal around the backseat I can ignore the trunk. I’ll lay some cld in it but I don’t think it needs the full Mlv/ccf treatment if I stop the noise from backseat. What are you thinking for trunk?
Love your project, something I've thought of doing but never had the nerve to dive that deep into it. I have done some extensive sound deadening however but decided to do my trunk area since my two subs are back there. I started at first by sealing off the trunk area at the seat interface and while that did reduce the road noise in the cabin, it left the bass weak with some strange artifacts brought out by the flexing and sound reflection of the trunk panels. In the end, it was the addition of sound deadening materials (mlv and closed cell foam) as well as sound blocking mlv mats that finally tamed my bass. For that reason, I'd recommend continuing your efforts into the trunk area
No, I meant for front seatbelts can you take them out and unwind them from the reel at the bottom so you can slide the belt out of the beige trim at the top to either paint it or replace it.
I have the entire car stripped already but yea, the rear was kind of a pain.
I've painted the buckle before on other cars. My steps are:
Remove belt with mechanism.
extend the belt to max.
Zip tie at the end so the motor cant retract.
Make a solution of purple power or detergent and leave just the belt in the soapy water overnight.
Scrub, clean and rinse the next day.
Hang the belts from the motor so they can air dry.
Once they dry, lay the belt flat and mask a section as best and flat as possible.
Slide the buckle to that section, put the rest of the belt in a bag.
Scuff the belt, be care full sanding close to the chromed part of the buckle.
Once satisfied with the surface, clean, and spray some flat/semi/gloss enamel. (rustoleum has been my go too for parts that see a lot of traffic)
Leave the enamel to dry for 24 hours and Voila.
You'll have flexible belt after having washed the material plus the black buckle.
Just checked and it isn’t written on the part. You should be able to find it online somewhere. They are from the Nismo Sentra. Could also try calling Nissan and ask them to look it up for you if you can’t find it online.
I only found them by searching eBay for “Nissan black grab handle” and noticed these were the same just by seeing them.
I’ve been a little lazy with regard to this project since I haven’t driven my car in a month. I just started ramping back up so I’ll have some updates soon...
I finally got off my butt and started working on the car again. Making good progress. Lots of updates coming soon. Here is a taste of what’s to come...
Looks Amazing!
I’ve got some good pics of the steps to wrap everything so I’m going to make a separate thread when I’m done with the intent of it being a sticky caliber post.
Also. Look what happens when you try to dye some of the parts in our car.
What the ....? So I guess some parts take the dye very well and some don’t take it all. I read something about polyurethane not taking it so I guess that’s what this is.
This is a shame b/ it really works well in the parts it actually affects. This was my plan for the vents, now I don’t know. I was also going to try and do this with the seatbelt trim too, but now I don’t think it’ll work.
Stay tuned as more updates will be coming very soon!
Wanted to take a pic of all the interior pieces before I bag and store them until I’m ready them.
Also in the pic is my dash cut. I’m actually not removing the dash. The vent cut outs are being difficult b/ you can’t cut in the car. I almost have them good enough that the vents will press down and hold. Not all these clips will connect with all the extra material in there unless you cut a sliver out of the dash. I did that for the center speaker but the vents will snug down good enough.
Im going to adhere the dash this weekend and it’s all down hill from there.
So here is my dome light which is from a GT-R. The one I found cheap was beat up so I wrapped it with 3m flat black. Note that this works for the GT-R since it’s already black, I don’t think you can wrap the beige one since the entire inside will be beige.
Probably should have dusted this off before I snapped a pic.
So the original intent was to use the piece between the lights from the G which has the sun roof button and just wrap it to match. The problem is the sunroof button is sunk so low that you can’t wrap all the way down the hole. I tried and tried and couldn’t get it nice.
The decision I have to make is...
A) Wrap the GTR center piece the same black and splice/extend the sunroof switch wires across the roof, down the A pillar and rig it up to the empty switch space near the trunk release.
OR
B) Paint the G center piece that has the sun roof switch cut out but you can’t paint it black since it’ll be different than the wrap. Instead, I would pick either a gunmetal or silver/nickel color spray paint and paint it AND ALL of the brushed aluminum trim in the car so that it all matches. So the piece between the lights would be same color as the rest of the trim in the car. My trim is in okay shape, not great but not horrible.
So A or B?
If it’s just a matter of laying out all the pieces, blasting them with a couple coats of paint and then hitting them with some clear and it’ll look great, that’s probably the best option since I’ll keep the switch where it should go and I’ll refresh the trim. If it requires lots of sanding and you really gotta know what your doing to have the painted pieces come out good, probably best for me just to move the switch. I don’t really know how painting is going to work.
If I paint, this is what I’m planning on using After doing some research with a 2k clear.
So I’m open for suggestions. Need to decide this soon.
Dang, you are all blacked out aye? It’s not that I think paint will look bad, but it’s going to be noticeably different than the wrap I used for the sun glasses holder and trim square piece. If it’s going to be different, I’d rather paint it and all the trim to match.
I just picked up a light and dark shade of that metallic gray Rust-Oleum. Going to do some test sprays to see how good it comes out. I’ll take your advice and prep.
Also. How clutch is this!
Cut out all the pieces perfectly and took them to the dry cleaner to stitch. Best $18 I’ve ever spent.
Dang, you are all blacked out aye? It’s not that I think paint will look bad, but it’s going to be noticeably different than the wrap I used for the sun glasses holder and trim square piece. If it’s going to be different, I’d rather paint it and all the trim to match.
I just picked up a light and dark shade of that metallic gray Rust-Oleum. Going to do some test sprays to see how good it comes out. I’ll take your advice and prep.
Also. How clutch is this!
Cut out all the pieces perfectly and took them to the dry cleaner to stitch. Best $18 I’ve ever spent.
03-30-2020, 04:28 PM
