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I’m doing it! Black Headliner, Cracked Dash Solution and no more Vibrations

Old Oct 16, 2020 | 12:06 PM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by Joyryde
Hmm, I did what you mentioned but with my caps open. Oh well, that is a good observation and amazing problem solving. Good work man! I am considering redoing my headliner again with charcoal and just do a complete delete of the envelope holder and the grab handles this winter. Keep up the good work.
Caps open? You mean off? Basically you just put the metal clips (which wont come off when you remove handles and will still be attached in the car) back on the handles, put the caps on to which locks the clip to the handle and then just push the handles in. Easy Peezy.

I actually like the handles but to each their own. I tried doing the envelope holder delete but it didn’t turn out too good so I am keeping it.
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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 01:01 PM
  #227  
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Originally Posted by ILM-NC G37S
Is it possible that during your interior transformation a connector at the rear parcel shelf became disconnected?

1st- I would, if possible, put the OEM unit back in so you can run the On Board Self Diagnosis function (the Phoenix unit may/not be able to run this). From here you can check the speakers and the amp connection (FSM: AV p. 340-355).

2nd- as all of the speakers are individually fed directly from the amp, check the wiring from the amp to the shelf speakers. I have a old 3.5mm headphone pigtail that I plug into a mp3 player to check speakers- crude, but works (saved me w/ my headrest speaker project).

3rd- and I don't see this as a contributing factor, temporarily plug in the quarter panel speakers and see what happens. Maybe the amp internally sees this disconnection and cuts sound (?)... not likely, but...

4th- if everything seems to check out then you will have to check the wiring from the headunit to the amp. With all of the connecting/disconnecting and fumbling of harnesses, it is possible a wire got pinched/broken, or even a damaged pin. These are tiny wires and it does not take much to fatigue them...
So I did the sound test that makes the speakers beep and the rear don’t make noise. However, when I get back there and put the volume Hugh I hear them playing very muffled. Also, I plugged the rear quarter panel speakers in and they seem to work fine. Given that, I would think clearly the sound signal to the amp is okay. It’s either the signal going to the 6x9s is bad (clearly they are getting some signal since I can hear them faintly) or the 6x9s are both blown (seems weird they just both crap out). Does that logic make sense?

Also, what does the woofer amp power? Is it just to lower 8” door speakers?


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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 01:46 PM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by sobeIPL
Also, what does the woofer amp power? Is it just to lower 8” door speakers?
The woofer amp only powers the 2 rear woofers that are under the parcel shelf. Are these the rear speakers that are not working right or are you referring to the side speakers in the rear?
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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 03:00 PM
  #229  
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The 6x9s in the rear deck are what’s not working. Your saying those are what are powered by the woofer amp? In the FSM they always refer to the big door speaker as the woofer and the rest as just “speakers” so I figured that’s what the woofer amp powered. They are also beefier than the 6x9s so it makes sense they would have their own amp.

So assuming the woofer amp powers the 6x9s, I guess something could be wrong with connection from the main amp to woofer amp or the woofer amp to the 6x9s.

(man it really seems weird the woofer amp wouldn’t be powering the big 8” woofers in the doors).
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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 03:52 PM
  #230  
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Per the FSM, the woofer amp clearly powers only the rear deck woofers while the Bose amp powers the doors:


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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 12:27 PM
  #231  
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Hey Sobeipl, I wanted to ask if it is possible to remove the headliner without removing the pillars? When I did mine I remove practically everything. I don’t want to remove everything all over again this winter if I just want to change the headliner portion.
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 12:55 PM
  #232  
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Originally Posted by Joyryde
Hey Sobeipl, I wanted to ask if it is possible to remove the headliner without removing the pillars? When I did mine I remove practically everything. I don’t want to remove everything all over again this winter if I just want to change the headliner portion.
The A-Pillars you’ll definitely have to pull back b/ they definitely overlap too much.

I highly doubt you can keep the B and C pillars in but I’ll give you a definitive next week. I’m installing my B and C pillars this week so I’ll evaluate the reasonableness of keeping them in when I see how they interact with headliner. Even if you could force it out with them on, it’s likely not going back in and probably more work then just unclipping them. But I’ll let you know
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 01:04 PM
  #233  
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@ILM-NC G37S

Yea, thanks for schooling me. You gotta admit tho it doesn’t make much sense.

Any chance you could tell me what to do with my multimeter to narrow down the issue? I disconnected a 6x9 and was getting 3.5 ohms (cheap meter probably not precise) same as the little rear quarter panels so maybe speakers are okay.

If I have music playing and put one lead on the + and one on the - I should get should some reading right? Is that safe to do? I’m a newb when it comes to using a multimeter.

The speaker makes some noise at high volume but it’s inaudible and mostly bass (although not loud). Also note I checked the 2 15amp fuses under left side of the dash and both are good.

Any advice to troubleshoot would be helpful.
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 02:21 PM
  #234  
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Originally Posted by sobeIPL
The A-Pillars you’ll definitely have to pull back b/ they definitely overlap too much.

I highly doubt you can keep the B and C pillars in but I’ll give you a definitive next week. I’m installing my B and C pillars this week so I’ll evaluate the reasonableness of keeping them in when I see how they interact with headliner. Even if you could force it out with them on, it’s likely not going back in and probably more work then just unclipping them. But I’ll let you know
Well sh*t. It’s just the C pillars that are extra work to remove in the sedans which is why I asked. But I will not complain if I want to have my grab handles and envelope holder deleted. Also one more question, I compared the G37 and Q50 seat belts and they look almost identical. Can they be interchanged since you have experimented a lot with Q50 parts?
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 02:25 PM
  #235  
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Unfortunately, I can offer no guidance here. I have zero experience dealing with speakers and all that ohm and impedance crap. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can offer some pointers. Things I would check:

1) Is the woofer amp getting 10V from the Bose amp (ON signal)?
2) Is the woofer amp getting 12V from battery?

Does this issue happen with both the OEM unit and this Tesla thing? Or one/the other?
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 03:37 PM
  #236  
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Originally Posted by Joyryde
Well sh*t. It’s just the C pillars that are extra work to remove in the sedans which is why I asked. But I will not complain if I want to have my grab handles and envelope holder deleted. Also one more question, I compared the G37 and Q50 seat belts and they look almost identical. Can they be interchanged since you have experimented a lot with Q50 parts?
Your most likely gonna need to remove all the pillars but probably better to ask @deep0542 since has a sedan.

The coupe seatbelts are completely different from the sedan so I’m not sure on that either. I used GTR belts.

That top secret qx70 sport that nobody knows about which has black interior I’d be willing to bet has exact same belts as the sedan. If you can confirm the qx70 has the same belts, then all you gotta do is scan eBay for qx70 parts, fenders and tailgates are the best search items. Usually people parting out a car will snap a pic of the wrecked car as their main page listing even if listing is just for a fender. Find the sport, message them and ask for the seatbelts. That’s how I found my dome light assembly.
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 03:41 PM
  #237  
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Originally Posted by ILM-NC G37S
Unfortunately, I can offer no guidance here. I have zero experience dealing with speakers and all that ohm and impedance crap. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can offer some pointers. Things I would check:

1) Is the woofer amp getting 10V from the Bose amp (ON signal)?
2) Is the woofer amp getting 12V from battery?

Does this issue happen with both the OEM unit and this Tesla thing? Or one/the other?
Not sure on Tesla thing b/ it’s missing rear audio signals anyways but I have the oem installed now to troubleshoot. So I just put the positive lead on the power or signal wire and ground the other lead to check the 10 and 12 volts right for those to wires right?
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 03:49 PM
  #238  
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Yes. Always ground to car frame/metal.
With everything turned ON, at the WOOFER AMP connector you should read 10V at Pin 3 (GREEN) wire and 12V at Pin 7 (YELLOW).

At the BOSE AMP, you should have 10V (amp ON signal from headunit) at Pin 20 (WHITE), and 12V at Pin 10 (YELLOW) and Pin 11 (GREEN).

Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Oct 19, 2020 at 04:11 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2020 | 08:35 PM
  #239  
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All leather everything.
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by sobeIPL
Your most likely gonna need to remove all the pillars but probably better to ask @deep0542 since has a sedan.

The coupe seatbelts are completely different from the sedan so I’m not sure on that either. I used GTR belts.

That top secret qx70 sport that nobody knows about which has black interior I’d be willing to bet has exact same belts as the sedan. If you can confirm the qx70 has the same belts, then all you gotta do is scan eBay for qx70 parts, fenders and tailgates are the best search items. Usually people parting out a car will snap a pic of the wrecked car as their main page listing even if listing is just for a fender. Find the sport, message them and ask for the seatbelts. That’s how I found my dome light assembly.
Yeah the Coupe and R35 GTR have identical seatbelts. Not sure on the QX70 or Q50 seatbelts- I'm currently using modified QX60 Seatbelt Guides. I may look to find a wrecked Q50 RS from 2018+ to see if I can get the actual seatbelt assembly.
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