So as I’ve been going back and fourth with my oem radio and the Tesla as I’ve been trying to figure out the wiring, I noticed my rear deck speakers aren’t working even with oem radio. I have no clue when this started or what caused it but I don’t see any reason why I wouldn’t have them. I don’t have the rear qtr panels in the car so obvious the speakers in there aren’t playing but the 6x9s are still there and should be playing.

I don’t think I popped or blew anything. I think it’s something stupid but I’m not sure what. Any ideas or easy trouble shooting tips? I checked the fade setting obviously and when I fade to rear I slowly lose all audio.

@ILM-NC G37S tagging you as you’ve been pretty helpful when it comes to things like this.

 

Is it possible that during your interior transformation a connector at the rear parcel shelf became disconnected?

1st- I would, if possible, put the OEM unit back in so you can run the On Board Self Diagnosis function (the Phoenix unit may/not be able to run this). From here you can check the speakers and the amp connection (FSM: AV p. 340-355).

2nd- as all of the speakers are individually fed directly from the amp, check the wiring from the amp to the shelf speakers. I have a old 3.5mm headphone pigtail that I plug into a mp3 player to check speakers- crude, but works (saved me w/ my headrest speaker project).

3rd- and I don't see this as a contributing factor, temporarily plug in the quarter panel speakers and see what happens. Maybe the amp internally sees this disconnection and cuts sound (?)... not likely, but...

4th- if everything seems to check out then you will have to check the wiring from the headunit to the amp. With all of the connecting/disconnecting and fumbling of harnesses, it is possible a wire got pinched/broken, or even a damaged pin. These are tiny wires and it does not take much to fatigue them...

 

@ILM-NC G37S Thanks for the tips. I didn’t know about that diagnostic you mentioned in point 1, interesting...

 

It comes in handy. Just DO NOT RESET/INITIALIZE the system. When done, keep pressing BACK to exit the menu.

 

And to think back in the days we used a 9v battery to the battery for it to "Humm" to determine which one it was

 

I remember those days all too well, my friend. Back then, a flat head screwdriver and a pair of pliers could fix most problems 1-2-3. Now.... Oh well, as Archie and Edith sang... "those were the days..."

 

FINALLY. Found a match to my leather big enough for the roof. It was expensive AF but it is what it is. Looks good so far.


All leather everything.

 

@deep0542 @Joyryde tagging you guys b/ I know you have experience in regards to my question...

I am getting ready to install my headliner. I had a really tough time removing it and don’t think I did it correctly. Also. I live in a condo and need to get this installed swiftly before anyone notices I’m working on my car so I want to make sure I know exactly what I’m doing.

1) Should I just install the dome light into the headliner before I install the headliner? This is where I got jammed up taking it out. Couldn’t figure out how to remove the dome light and I broke the yellowish trim that holds it in place taking it out (currently super gluing it back together). I’m thinking just totally install the dome light but I’m unsure if I’ll be able to access all the harnesses I need to plug in if it’s already installed? Any advice on this?

2) Besides the Antenna wire that was tapped to the headliner, is there anything else I need to address before I install?

 

Install the dome map before you install the headliner back in. When I put my headliner back in I realized I put the dome map in the wrong direction, so be careful with that. If the superglue does not hold the plastic yellow frame well, just get a new one as you will still need to use a bit of force to push it into the metal holes. Other than that, the velcro will hold the headliner well. The only thing I will warn you is that the grab handles will be a b*tch to put back in. Those were the toughest pieces I had to do personally and probably the most useless too. I was really considering redoing my charcoal suede headliner this summer just to get rid of the grab handles. But it is what it is. Also, make sure the sunroof/moonroof panel slides freely before putting in the headliner. If it's sliding rough, make sure to make cuts on both sides where the leather is wrapped, but not too much to the point where you can see the cuts from inside the cabin, so the metal and plastic can slide without friction on the rails. You can also use WD40 to lube the rails to make it even easier to slide. Also, try and loosen up the door seals from above where the headliner will meet so you have less resistance and more wiggle room to align the headliner.

 

@Joyryde thanks for the info. Just to confirm, your saying to install the map light into the headliner and then install the headliner (with map already in it)?

What was so hard about the grab handles? Don’t they just clip in?

 

Yes, install the map light into the headliner and then install the whole headliner.

The thing with the grab handles, at least for me, was that the suede was much thicker than the original fabric and caused the space between the headliner and the grab handle clips to be too large since I had the fabric wrapped around the edges too. I eventually used some JB weld metal stix to join the clips and hole together. Also add to the fact that the metal clips are super fragile and can easily bend and/or break, it is just a pain. I thankfully had extra clips that I got from some of the grab handles I bought off ebay. If I were to do it again, I would have just not done the grab handles and the envelope holder above the passenger's sun visors. I would have used the expandable foam where the declines are for the grab handles to rest, and then sand it to be flush when wrapping. If they had screws like in older BMWs I have worked on, then the grab handles wouldn't be that big on an issue.

 

Thanks for posting up your experiences.

The interior pics of soundproofing the floor are very helpful. I am currently soundproofing my '13 xS coupe -- I have the trunk and driver door finished. Planning to complete the passenger door this week/weekend and doing the rear seat/quarter panels. I am intentionally leaving the floor for last, just because of what a PITA it seems to be from your description.

 

@Joyryde got it. Too late for me to nix the grab handles and I actually like them so hopefully they clip in okay. If not I’ll have to get creative too. I am considering not cutting out the envelope holder as well. Is that not important as far as securing the headliner to the roof?

I friggin lost the two side pieces of the sunroof. Going to see if it slides okay against the leather, if not I’ll have to find some plastic edging or something. I have some 3m wrap that is pretty slick, maybe just wrapping edges with that will work.

 

Glad it was helpful. Your doing it completely opposite of me, lol.

 

The envelope holder helps a little bit, since there is a specific rectangular hole for it to clip in, but if you'd want extra support I'd recommend getting some extreme double sided red tape from home depot that costs $20. Once it sticks it sticks. Either way, the sun visors will hold the headliner in place as well so you won't be losing much support. Yeah, I was in the same position as well when I had my holes cut. Just thought to myself "Why did I do this?" Not that big of a deal for me, but the more I think about it the more I realize how useless they are.

Are you talking about the two black pieces that are plastic? You don't really need them. I didn't use mine and the sunroof/moonroof shade closes and opens fine.