I found PDF that described the modules it connects to and it DOES connect to the TCM, ABS, BCM, etc for ID, codes and data stream. Looks like you have a good one!

 

Thats good, ill be on the edge of my seat all day at work tomorrow waiting to get home and test it when the mail comes.

 

Okay so I found out a little today, so far it seems that the switches are all functional. Whether it's by brake or just switching on the parking brakes. So I just need to read the field manuals again and try to figure out if it's the ipdm or the bcm which isn't relaying the signal to the rear. I'll be checking the connections of the bcm tomorrow because I think the audio guy was in that area and may have knocked something loose.If it came down the the bcm and ipdm, how do I determine which is the bad part?

 

With the ABS module plugged in, I assume the brake lights are working again and the remaining issue is no tail lights?

The light switch is read by the BCM, it sends a request over the CAN network to the IPDM. The IPDM will energize the tail light relay and the lights should turn on.

If the BCM is unplugged, you would have more than a few things not working. I suspect it is fine.

The rear tail lights wiring diagram is on EXL-99. You should check for voltage at the lights and follow it to the IPDM and/or follow EXL-49.

Your new tool should be able to switch on/off specific outputs in the BCM and IPDM.

 

Brake lights are still not working. My dad wants to swap the brake switch just to be 110% sure it's not the cause. But that wouldn't explain the reason the parking lights aren't on. He's finally going to troubleshoot tomorrow, I'll show him the diagram and suggest what you said.

The tool doesn't let me send signals through it to test stuff, I'll see if I can update it on the website.

 

Don't throw parts at a problem. It is a waste of time and money.

Do you have a meter and know how to use one?
If you do, checking the brake switch will take about 15 seconds.

Sorry if I sound harsh, I don't mean to be.
Good luck tomorrow!

 

No no, I understand exactly. Wasn't my decision to replace it, but it's whatever now. It's cheap so it's not like I'm replacing the ipdm or bcm and hoping for the best. Despite the audio guys findings, my dads gonna troubleshoot from scratch. So he'll test tomorrow with a meter and whatever other tools.I kinda think the switches are fine because with live data streaming the iCarSoft tells you whats running , on/off. So for example if I step on the brake, it'll say brake switch on. If I turn the lights on, it'll say all that stuffs on too. So that kinda narrows it I'd think.

 

Took it to my main audio guy for a 2nd time to take another look and last resort rewire if the short wasnt found. Finally he found that a plug wasnt plugged into the kickpanel fuse box. Kinda obscure from vision so it was easy to miss. But despite the simplicity of this dragged out ordeal, im glad it was something this stupid instead of there being some underlying electrical issue. Hes not charging me a lot , although I did buy a car scanner but Im sure itll come in handy down the road for me, or my friends and family who have infinitis, nissan and subarus .

 

I'm glad the issue is resolved.

I would never put in an aftermarket deck in a car made in the last 5ish years. Newer cars are very complicated and the typical installer is not up to date. Some cars (like BMWs and VWs) use the OEM radio as a network hub/gateway. When you remove it, half the car's network goes down.

 

My cars factory radio is untouched because of that, I have a dsp in the trunk for tuning the sound quality.