Engine Bay Thread
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Northern VA, Fairfax area
You can't wait.... I can't wait~ lol
It should be done soon, and taking my GTSPEC strut bar this week. But I still need to order few more mods... Before I can post full pic on here. ^^
It should be done soon, and taking my GTSPEC strut bar this week. But I still need to order few more mods... Before I can post full pic on here. ^^
Registered User
iTrader: (122)
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,596
Likes: 158
From: Northern VA, Fairfax area
The 3 bolts at the top and middle of the cover are 25mm long, but 20mm works, too, because the tips are actually tapered. In fact, most car bolts are tapered, to better support the manufacturing process. If you're talking about countersunk bolts, remember that the measurement represents the length of the bolt stem, not including the tapered top.
The 2 nuts on the bottom of the cover are M6 acorn nuts with attached washers. Here's what you can do about these two...
...drive to your local Home Depot and buy a couple Stainless Steel M6 acorn nuts for like $0.88/each. Match them with an appropriately sized SS (or titanium) M6 washer, and it will look 100% better than the OEM hardware.
All 5 engine cover connectors are standard M6 (1.00mm thread pitch); which is a configuration that describes 99% of the smallish automotive nuts & bolts that come out of Japan.
The 3 bolts at the top and middle of the cover are 25mm long, but 20mm works, too, because the tips are actually tapered. In fact, most car bolts are tapered, to better support the manufacturing process. If you're talking about countersunk bolts, remember that the measurement represents the length of the bolt stem, not including the tapered top.
The 2 nuts on the bottom of the cover are M6 acorn nuts with attached washers. Here's what you can do about these two...
...drive to your local Home Depot and buy a couple Stainless Steel M6 acorn nuts for like $0.88/each. Match them with an appropriately sized SS (or titanium) M6 washer, and it will look 100% better than the OEM hardware.
The 3 bolts at the top and middle of the cover are 25mm long, but 20mm works, too, because the tips are actually tapered. In fact, most car bolts are tapered, to better support the manufacturing process. If you're talking about countersunk bolts, remember that the measurement represents the length of the bolt stem, not including the tapered top.
The 2 nuts on the bottom of the cover are M6 acorn nuts with attached washers. Here's what you can do about these two...
...drive to your local Home Depot and buy a couple Stainless Steel M6 acorn nuts for like $0.88/each. Match them with an appropriately sized SS (or titanium) M6 washer, and it will look 100% better than the OEM hardware.
I also like that your FSTB bar is black in this set up. The painted brackets are OK, but don't really match the red in your CF wrap.
Kind of feel the same way about the PS res cover... I like it, but the color doesn't quite match. At least, not in this photo. Better photos, please.
I spy a zeetoyz cover on your dipstick.

What's with all the heavy gauge wires? Is that a grounding kit?
Matching NISMO caps... nice. A little over the top with "nismo nismo" branding, but they still look nice. Keepers, IMO.
And this is stupidly OT, but why is your registration sticker in the middle of the windshield?
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Northern VA, Fairfax area
^ I was going to get status elite CF covers, but it will look almost same as the other guys who have them, lot of members have them, and I wanted to look different. So I went with the Red Kevlar CF with Carbon Fiber Element. And he did a awesome job!! Thanks Tony!!!!
My interior is the same red kevlar CF. And I am getting my Steering wheel and the bezel the same color. Too much red? Yeah~ kkk But I like it, It looks different from Sun hitting it at a different angles or I really like it at night time, dark red look.
And thank you for your opinion.
"the wrap on the engine cover is just too much. It dominates the presentation, and washes out the details."
I said the same thing.... It was going to be a combination of Black CF and Red Kevlar.... almost like my last painted cover. But once I got it, I just wanted to keep it this way, it is covered in CF and I don't want to cover that up with Black paint. Maybe later I can cover it with a gloss or flat black vinyl, so I can remove at anytime I want.
The Front Strut Bar... no choice in color, but did not wanted th all black look.
And it is very hard to match the red kevlar color.... I tried.
And in VA we HAVE to put our registration sticker in the F#$@# middle.
What looks or sounds good, forever illegal in VA. front plate
tint % 
radar detector 

slightly louder exhaust noise compared to OEM 


list goes down.....forever~
My interior is the same red kevlar CF. And I am getting my Steering wheel and the bezel the same color. Too much red? Yeah~ kkk But I like it, It looks different from Sun hitting it at a different angles or I really like it at night time, dark red look.
And thank you for your opinion.
"the wrap on the engine cover is just too much. It dominates the presentation, and washes out the details."
I said the same thing.... It was going to be a combination of Black CF and Red Kevlar.... almost like my last painted cover. But once I got it, I just wanted to keep it this way, it is covered in CF and I don't want to cover that up with Black paint. Maybe later I can cover it with a gloss or flat black vinyl, so I can remove at anytime I want.
The Front Strut Bar... no choice in color, but did not wanted th all black look.
And it is very hard to match the red kevlar color.... I tried.
And in VA we HAVE to put our registration sticker in the F#$@# middle.
What looks or sounds good, forever illegal in VA. front plate
tint % 
radar detector 

slightly louder exhaust noise compared to OEM 


list goes down.....forever~








