Hello everyone,

I recently purchased a 2011 g37xs and have come across a very interesting issue. The car has an aftermarket subwoofer and obviously an amp as well. I was driving around with both heated seats on at night with the radio on as a well when all of a sudden all of the lights came on in the dash, the car unlocked itself, tachometer and the speedometer reset (almost as if the car remote started while driving) and the car sort of jolted. It did it a couple times repeatedly until I turned off the heated seats and then restarted the car. I also have a check engine light on after the problem. I took the car to the dealership and they are stumped as to what the issue is and they believe it has something to do with the aftermarket speakers. I checked the battery and while it was running to make sure it had nothing to do with the alternator and battery. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

 

Unfortunately when a shop modifies the car's wiring, it is almost impossible to help over the internet.

If I were you, I would remove the sub/amp and see if the problem happens again.
If if does, you will need to take it to a good shop to figure out what the stereo installed did.

 

If the wiring is directly from the battery to the amp it could still effect the ecu?

 

1) What were the codes?
2) Are you able to repeat the problem? ie. If you turn the seat heaters ON does the problem return?
3) How healthy is the battery?

These cars get VERY finicky when voltage drops- for whatever reason.

If I were to guess, perhaps you were drawing too much current (both seat heaters, lights (at night), radio (+ goodies), likely HVAC (blower)) and it was just a fluke. The alternator should be able to handle the load/ demand, but...

I've run both seat heaters, the steering wheel heater, radio, lights, etc. with no issues. However, I do not have any aftermarket amps nor do I have anything connected directly to the battery.

Like SonicVQ suggested, if the problem persists, disconnect the aftermarket gizmos- especially if they are directly connected to the battery- and see what happens. I'd also make sure the current sensor (attached to negative battery cable) has not been bypassed.

 

Yes... and to verify that disconnect the amp.

 

Hello everyone,
I would like to say thank you for your help. So i believe I fixed it. I went to get a new battery for the car and when changing it I saw some of the most terrible wiring I have every seen. I am 90% positive the issue was caused by this because I found what looked like some sort of remote start setup and removed it as well and put the new battery in. After that the check engine light went away. And I still have the amp and the subs in the car with 0 issues. I will keep everyone updated if an issue occurs

Thank you.

 

Well done!
Glad you got it sorted out.
And thanks for letting us know.