IPDM DIY Replacement (Need programming?)
#1
IPDM DIY Replacement (Need programming?)
Gents,
I have 2010 G37 with supposedly bad IPDM (fuse box next to battery). The dealer wants $1600 for the job.
I see many used ones on the web for under $200. Is it just swap, or need to reprogram BCM or some other modules?
Thanks!
Mark
I have 2010 G37 with supposedly bad IPDM (fuse box next to battery). The dealer wants $1600 for the job.
I see many used ones on the web for under $200. Is it just swap, or need to reprogram BCM or some other modules?
Thanks!
Mark
#3
I though the same. Service manager at Infiniti told me if I get a used one, they need to copy data from old IPDM to new. I'm going to get a used one in any case so will see if it works by just swapping. The manager actually told me they can swap and copy for $150 or so, which surprised me. I was sure they would only do the work if I bought a new module directly from them.
#4
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
I just double checked all of my copies of the FSM and they all say basically the same thing: plug-and-play. There is no mention whatsoever of any programming requirements. The IPDM/er is basically a integrated fuse/relay array- it is not a "brain" per se...
As mentioned prior, just make sure the donor part matches yours....
Please keep us updated!
As mentioned prior, just make sure the donor part matches yours....
Please keep us updated!
#7
ey I’m having to replace this part on my coupe also. When you say make sure the donor car matches mine.. do you mean model, trim, and drivetrain?
QUOTE=ILM-NC G37S;4235021]I just double checked all of my copies of the FSM and they all say basically the same thing: plug-and-play. There is no mention whatsoever of any programming requirements. The IPDM/er is basically a integrated fuse/relay array- it is not a "brain" per se...
As mentioned prior, just make sure the donor part matches yours....
Please keep us updated![/QUOTE]
QUOTE=ILM-NC G37S;4235021]I just double checked all of my copies of the FSM and they all say basically the same thing: plug-and-play. There is no mention whatsoever of any programming requirements. The IPDM/er is basically a integrated fuse/relay array- it is not a "brain" per se...
As mentioned prior, just make sure the donor part matches yours....
Please keep us updated![/QUOTE]
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#9
Awesome
thanks for the speedy reply. Ive done some research in regards to this issue.
but it might actually be my BCM (Body Control Module). Seeing as I notice water around my passenger side floor after pulling back the carpet. I had a leak of some sort and it must’ve gotten wet. The car went haywire. No light functioning. Car wouldn’t start. It was constantly telling me no key. I disconnected it for about an hour. Let it dry in the sun. Plugged it up the car recognized the key. Started right up. Only functions not working now are my wipers (when I flip the switch up for one wipe... other than that they work fine). And my turn signals (the hazards work but individual signally no..).
what’re your thoughts???
but it might actually be my BCM (Body Control Module). Seeing as I notice water around my passenger side floor after pulling back the carpet. I had a leak of some sort and it must’ve gotten wet. The car went haywire. No light functioning. Car wouldn’t start. It was constantly telling me no key. I disconnected it for about an hour. Let it dry in the sun. Plugged it up the car recognized the key. Started right up. Only functions not working now are my wipers (when I flip the switch up for one wipe... other than that they work fine). And my turn signals (the hazards work but individual signally no..).
what’re your thoughts???
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MStrike (12-01-2020)
#11
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
Most have had positive results just letting the BCM completely dry out. Based on your current symptoms (wipers/signals), I would suggest you ¹-disconnect the main battery, ²- disconnect all of the harness connectors at the BCM, ³- make sure everything is clean AND dry (allow ample drying time and conditions), ⁴- reconnect and see if that solved your issue. Being that your car starts and runs tells me it is probably a minor issue and therefore likely will not require BCM replacement.
All of the above is contingent upon you identifying the source of the water leak and correcting that issue first. It is only a matter of time before the next rain storm introduces more water into the equation which will bring you back to square one. Additionally, the ECM- and other sensitive electronic modules- are in that same location. Basic rule: water and electricity do not mix!
As a side note: the topic of this thread references replacing the IPDM/er which does not require reprogramming. However, replacing the BCM WILL require that ALL key fobs be reprogrammed to the new BCM. These two modules are separate units so please do not confuse them.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 06-13-2020 at 08:38 AM.
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MStrike (12-01-2020)
#12
Hey
Thank you for the reply. I took off the A pillar trimming and exposed the drain hose for the sunroof and poured multiple cups of water down that side of the roof and the drain is making water exit out the side of the firewall and nothing is dripping inside the car. We did the same test to the driver side as well and it’s doing the same thing showing that it’s working properly. However.... how can I test the grommet by the battery. I poured water directly on it. And nothing dropped inside the car. As a side note.. if like to mention I have no front end rear section fender liners.. so could me driving through a huge puddle or a car wash like I did the other day had caused water to get in by the wheel well? Just a thought. Let me know what you think.
Any water inside the passenger cabin can be attributed to either a failed sunroof drain or firewall harness grommet. A simple search will yield a ton of information on those two gremlins. I would lean toward the sunroof drains as this issue is affecting more and more cars as time goes on.
Most have had positive results just letting the BCM completely dry out. Based on your current symptoms (wipers/signals), I would suggest you ¹-disconnect the main battery, ²- disconnect all of the harness connectors at the BCM, ³- make sure everything is clean AND dry (allow ample drying time and conditions), ⁴- reconnect and see if that solved your issue. Being that your car starts and runs tells me it is probably a minor issue and therefore likely will not require BCM replacement.
All of the above is contingent upon you identifying the source of the water leak and correcting that issue first. It is only a matter of time before the next rain storm introduces more water into the equation which will bring you back to square one. Additionally, the ECM- and other sensitive electronic modules- are in that same location. Basic rule: water and electricity do not mix!
As a side note: the topic of this thread references replacing the IPDM/er which does not require reprogramming. However, replacing the BCM WILL require that ALL key fobs be reprogrammed to the new BCM. These two modules are separate units so please do not confuse them.
Most have had positive results just letting the BCM completely dry out. Based on your current symptoms (wipers/signals), I would suggest you ¹-disconnect the main battery, ²- disconnect all of the harness connectors at the BCM, ³- make sure everything is clean AND dry (allow ample drying time and conditions), ⁴- reconnect and see if that solved your issue. Being that your car starts and runs tells me it is probably a minor issue and therefore likely will not require BCM replacement.
All of the above is contingent upon you identifying the source of the water leak and correcting that issue first. It is only a matter of time before the next rain storm introduces more water into the equation which will bring you back to square one. Additionally, the ECM- and other sensitive electronic modules- are in that same location. Basic rule: water and electricity do not mix!
As a side note: the topic of this thread references replacing the IPDM/er which does not require reprogramming. However, replacing the BCM WILL require that ALL key fobs be reprogrammed to the new BCM. These two modules are separate units so please do not confuse them.
#13
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
The likelihood that going through a car wash or splashing through a puddle would allow a significant amount of water to infiltrate the cabin and get the electronics wet is.... well, possible but not probable (IMO).
Some members are reporting that water is entering through the lower portion of the windshield/cowl area. I would recommend you check your cabin air filter for moisture/water as well.
Again, I would make sure everything is clean and dry first. If your symptoms (wipers/lights) still persist, then you can move up the diagnostic chain.
Some members are reporting that water is entering through the lower portion of the windshield/cowl area. I would recommend you check your cabin air filter for moisture/water as well.
Again, I would make sure everything is clean and dry first. If your symptoms (wipers/lights) still persist, then you can move up the diagnostic chain.
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MStrike (12-01-2020)
#14
Absolutely
We checked the cabin filter also. Completely dry. We poured water down the windshield and still no leakage. Poured water directly on the rubber guard over that wire harness by the battery. And nothing. It could be the drain hose from the sunroof. But for that much water to have had a cumulated still the bottom of my floor bored, I’d think that leak was a substantial One and would’ve showed when I poured water down the roof immediately no? I’m gonna take it to a self wash today and have my wife spray on the roof constantly as I wait for any leaking from inside.
as a side note. The section specifically that was wet was the side wall slightly below the BCM. And then the floor. The center wall (right behind the glove box) was dry. It wasn’t wet at all. Only as I moved my hand below the BCM I felt dampness and the wires were kind of wet. And also for all it’s worth. When this all happened yesterday (when the car went berserk) I got an error code u1000. And I wasn’t able to scan the car. Now I can scan the car and my only codes are for my 02 sensors ( of course )
as a side note. The section specifically that was wet was the side wall slightly below the BCM. And then the floor. The center wall (right behind the glove box) was dry. It wasn’t wet at all. Only as I moved my hand below the BCM I felt dampness and the wires were kind of wet. And also for all it’s worth. When this all happened yesterday (when the car went berserk) I got an error code u1000. And I wasn’t able to scan the car. Now I can scan the car and my only codes are for my 02 sensors ( of course )
The likelihood that going through a car wash or splashing through a puddle would allow a significant amount of water to infiltrate the cabin and get the electronics wet is.... well, possible but not probable (IMO).
Some members are reporting that water is entering through the lower portion of the windshield/cowl area. I would recommend you check your cabin air filter for moisture/water as well.
Again, I would make sure everything is clean and dry first. If your symptoms (wipers/lights) still persist, then you can move up the diagnostic chain.
Some members are reporting that water is entering through the lower portion of the windshield/cowl area. I would recommend you check your cabin air filter for moisture/water as well.
Again, I would make sure everything is clean and dry first. If your symptoms (wipers/lights) still persist, then you can move up the diagnostic chain.
#15
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
U1000 is a generic code indicating a communications error with the CANBUS system.
Thoroughly check the BCM area for any signs of water intrusion. There might be a hidden seal or something- I just do not know. With electronics, all it takes is 1 drop of water to muck everything up.
Get everything disconnected, cleaned, thoroughly dried out, and go from there.
Thoroughly check the BCM area for any signs of water intrusion. There might be a hidden seal or something- I just do not know. With electronics, all it takes is 1 drop of water to muck everything up.
Get everything disconnected, cleaned, thoroughly dried out, and go from there.