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Yea there was some water around the area of the BCM. What I’m worried about is if the wire harnesses themselves got wet how would fix that. Ya know. But as far as leering everything dry. I had removed it yesterday and left it in the sun for about two hours (it was about 80 all day). Then the wipers and turn signals didn’t work. I ordered a new BCM. Should be here in two weeks. I’ll have my mechanic program the key and stuff he has the computer thing he’s done it for my Acura before. But I wanna sort out the leak before installing the new one. So I’m going to take out the drain hose and remove the plastic drain end and instead just put an empty pen body into the hose and then zip tie it securely into the hose and then push it directly out of the firewall so there’s no chance of it getting back up or running back inside the car again. Thoughts? (Saw this method online for other G owners)
Originally Posted by ILM-NC G37S
U1000 is a generic code indicating a communications error with the CANBUS system.
Thoroughly check the BCM area for any signs of water intrusion. There might be a hidden seal or something- I just do not know. With electronics, all it takes is 1 drop of water to muck everything up.
Get everything disconnected, cleaned, thoroughly dried out, and go from there.
Sounds like you already have a definitive plan of attack in place. There are many different ways to resolve the drain issue so you will just have to decide what works best for you. I personally would probably go the reroute method where the sunroof drain is moved to the AC evaporator drain. Thankfully, I don't have this issue...yet. Nine (9) inches of rain yesterday and, thank God, interior is as dry a bone.
Just make sure the BCM connectors are dry and clean. Those wires are bundled tight and it will take time for any water to evaporate fully. If you have a can of compressed air you could lightly spray the connectors (both sides) as well as the BCM pins... while you are waiting for the new part to come in...
INTERESTING where’s the AC evaporator drain?? And also can I use a blow dryer to blow on those wire harnesses as well as the BCM??
Originally Posted by ILM-NC G37S
Sounds like you already have a definitive plan of attack in place. There are many different ways to resolve the drain issue so you will just have to decide what works best for you. I personally would probably go the reroute method where the sunroof drain is moved to the AC evaporator drain. Thankfully, I don't have this issue...yet. Nine (9) inches of rain yesterday and, thank God, interior is as dry a bone.
Just make sure the BCM connectors are dry and clean. Those wires are bundled tight and it will take time for any water to evaporate fully. If you have a can of compressed air you could lightly spray the connectors (both sides) as well as the BCM pins... while you are waiting for the new part to come in...
The AC evaporator (behind the glovebox) drains through the floor. Many have opted to extend the front sunroof drains and tie into this drain hose. That way all of the water is drained through the floor and not through the firewall where it can potentially leak onto the electronics. It is more work but it is also likely a permanent solution.
ok thank you. I’m going to try n remove the glove box a well And see what’s going on. I poured more water and still der no leak. I’m confused
Originally Posted by ILM-NC G37S
The AC evaporator (behind the glovebox) drains through the floor. Many have opted to extend the front sunroof drains and tie into this drain hose. That way all of the water is drained through the floor and not through the firewall where it can potentially leak onto the electronics. It is more work but it is also likely a permanent solution.
I have had some water leak through the passenger window.seemed like the window was not making a complete seal but not sure if would on been enough to soak the floorboard .I would of not caught it my my wife was inside as I was pressure washing the car. It was coming in right by where the mirror is
Alright so upon further evaluation. I realized the yellow nipple at the end of the sunroof drain was clogged and really dirty. Therefore when the rain pours the water stops at the end of the yellow nipple and floods into the firewall eventually wetting your BCM and the floor board. So I got rid of the yellow nipple and use a party cup bendy straw (sold at the 99cent store) as an extension and used small hose clamps to hold the straws in place and then ran the hose and straw completely through the firewall leaving it impossible for the water fall inside the fire wall. I put my big boy pants on And did the same thing for the driver side. Any questions feel
free
to
ask. (For what it’s worth im
easier to reach on Instagram @40.ball)
I have an 11 g37 with an intermittent ac issue that has gradually gotten worse over the seasons, mechanic diagnosed as ac relay in the ipdm, even though the self diagnostics tests click the clutch every time. Bought 2 separate salvage units because the dealer parts guy said it was a plug and play, but the car wouldn't even start with either one of them. All dash lights lit up and nothing. They were the same model and trim. Mechanic suggested it may be the anti theft needed to be reset. Thoughts? This is getting VERY frustrating, a new unit is over $1000 and I'd like to make sure that's actually the problem! Thanks
Does your car return to normal when you reinstall the original IPDM/er?
The only electronic circuit the IPDM controls for the AC system is the compressor magnetic clutch- which you indicated tested good. What are your symptoms, re: "intermittent [AC] issue?"
Does your car return to normal when you reinstall the original IPDM/er?
The only electronic circuit the IPDM controls for the AC system is the compressor magnetic clutch- which you indicated tested good. What are your symptoms, re: "intermittent [AC] issue?"
Yes, it returns to normal. The ac problem started as it would randomly stop blowing cold for a while, then return to normal operation. Then it would happen more and more frequently to the point this spring where it wouldn't come on at all for a couple weeks... until I made an appointment with a mechanic and then it immediately worked normally. Now it comes on for a few seconds...20-30, then goes off again. A few minutes later it'll do it again. On and off on and off.
Is this a trusted mechanic, one who specializes in HVAC systems?
To me, it could be 1 of 3 things:
1) condenser (radiator) fan(s) failing; with AC on they should be roaring,
2) low refrigerant charge; or
3) sticking evaporator expansion valve.
A qualified HVAC tech should be able to put a set of gauges on the system and see what's going on.
When you ran the IPDM/er self-test- which proved the compressor clutch to be ok- were both fans roaring loud?
I just double checked all of my copies of the FSM and they all say basically the same thing: plug-and-play. There is no mention whatsoever of any programming requirements. The IPDM/er is basically a integrated fuse/relay array- it is not a "brain" per se...
As mentioned prior, just make sure the donor part matches yours....
Please keep us updated!
When I got my car, it was missing the cover at the bottom of the windshield.
I found it, but it's between the ipdm and the body. I should be able to just pull up the ipdm, loosen up the metal back and pull the rubber cowl out, right?
Edit: pulled ipdm off and it took enough tension off the bracket that I was able to get the cowling out of there and put back in lol
Thanks!
Last edited by pinecone; Jun 16, 2025 at 03:13 PM.