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Thanks for the quick response. I was really hoping there was an additional step I could take.
No chance anyone knows how to fix one of these? I don't want to keep throwing money at used parts that are broken.
I'm honestly stumped. The AC amp is usually the last resort when all else failed. Maybe a wiring issue? Like fuel sending unit signal being cut somewhere. Grasping at straws. Gauges worked when you did diagnostics, right? So not the cluster? Really stumped on this one.
I'm honestly stumped. The AC amp is usually the last resort when all else failed. Maybe a wiring issue? Like fuel sending unit signal being cut somewhere. Grasping at straws. Gauges worked when you did diagnostics, right? So not the cluster? Really stumped on this one.
Checked the cluster, it works as it should.
I'm assuming the replacement AC amps were bad because the airbag light started flashing after those were installed. The airbag light does not come on with the original AC amp.
I'm assuming the replacement AC amps were bad because the airbag light started flashing after those were installed. The airbag light does not come on with the original AC amp.
Hmm, now that you mention it, if I remember right the airbag light was flashing for me too because the panel with all the buttons was disconnected. Had to do the reset for the airbag light. You just cycle ignition a few times. Just YouTube resetting SRS airbags light on g37. But that wasn't really related with the AC amp as much as it was because things got disconnected. I can't say for sure in your case though.
I have the code P0462 as well on my 2013 g37x. I have replace both fuel level sensor, fuel pump, tried cluster, and still the same code. i will be trying the Ac amplifier today and hope it gets rid of this code cause i have had it for a while.
I know I'm really late replying, and only because I'm having the same issue, but you can run diagnostics on your cluster to see if its the problem. if not, it is most likely the AC Amp.
With the car turned off, hold the trip/a/b button. While its pressed, press the ignition button twice with foot off the brake. release and press the trip button 3 times. This should put you in diagnostic mode. Holding down the trip button will move the coolant and fuel gauge to half, and letting go will move them back to 0. If they do this behaviour and look symmetrical left and right, your cluster is fine. If the fuel gauge doesn't move, doesn't go to 0 or doesn't reflect what the coolant gauge is doing, its a faulty cluster.
Do you know where I can find instructions for swapping this out? I'm willing to pay for an online manual.
Factory Manuals- Free
Navigate to your specific year and type and download section: MWI (Meter, Warning Lamp & Indicator). I would recommend you download the whole manual while you can.
There is also a video that shows how to remove the gauge cluster.
⚠️Keep in mind that your mileage will change if you swap in a different cluster. This may or may not be a issue for you.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; May 8, 2022 at 10:41 AM.
I changed out everything and mine ended up being the AC amp. Just look up videos on removing the navigation and the Ac Amp is behind all that. It is not cheap so if you can find it at a pull a part. Just to refresh you remove the shift **** and then you can get to the screws to remove the navigation and stereo.
I’m sorry I’m late to the party and I hope I don’t anger anyone who replaced the HVAC Control Module. You can solder a resistor and fix it for the cost of a solder. See pics for reference. Literally registered here to save some fellow G37 owners a few hundred dollars if you have soldering experience!!! I realize after posting, the picture is poor quality. I pulled the Control Module apart and found the resistor had a crack on the original solder. If it is shifted or cracked, that is your culprit. It can be any of the resistors in that set. I did not buy a new resistor or whatever it really is exactly (believe it is a resistor). They just tend to break for some reason, resistor will still be reusable. Just cover up the crack, and you will be good to go. The circled resistor in red is my bad one, you can see the line going through the solder and that was my case.
Last edited by BlackG37CT; May 17, 2022 at 07:40 PM.
Did you have any luck correcting this problem? I also have 2015 Q40 and just wasted $900 with my mechanic on replacing the sending units. Did you try the AC Amplifier Module?
Did you have any luck correcting this problem? I also have 2015 Q40 and just wasted $900 with my mechanic on replacing the sending units. Did you try the AC Amplifier Module?
yes i did replace the ac amplifier and i did the same and bought all the random parts but the culprit was the ac amplifier behind the head unit. Go to a pull a part if you can.
I just wanted to create an account and give a big thank you to all of you who have identified this issue. I know this is very late, however, I was able to re-solder the resistors and my fuel gauge is working again after replacing the fuel pump, etc. thank you guys so much!
I just wanted to create an account and give a big thank you to all of you who have identified this issue. I know this is very late, however, I was able to re-solder the resistors and my fuel gauge is working again after replacing the fuel pump, etc. thank you guys so much!
Glad that worked. Mine was the white box behind the navigation lol
