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That's what I was hoping for. I seldom crank the crap out of it, I just want a nice solid, tight, bottom end which the Blose doesn't have. I imagine later on that I'll change out all of the speakers and go to a different amp set up for them. I can't see any reason to replace the head unit if what I've read is true that it has Burr-Brown dacs in it. Burr-Brown's are about as good as it gets.
There is no kit to replace the head unit, if you have Navigation.. At least I cannot find one. Everything was good till I changed my rear door speakers, the amp could not handle the ohms difference between the factory and aftermarket speakers. So I am running only on the front factory speakers for now... When the weather cools down here, Ill change them out..
I have a 12" box in the back, it is all sounds awesome.
I have always used caps, but I never had more them 2000w total in a car. Anything much more then that, I would suggest a second battery.
There is no kit to replace the head unit, if you have Navigation.. At least I cannot find one. Everything was good till I changed my rear door speakers, the amp could not handle the ohms difference between the factory and aftermarket speakers. So I am running only on the front factory speakers for now... When the weather cools down here, Ill change them out..
I have a 12" box in the back, it is all sounds awesome.
I have always used caps, but I never had more them 2000w total in a car. Anything much more then that, I would suggest a second battery.
I want to take out all of the Bose speakers, I've always been amazed at how cheap their drivers are, and amps but leave the stock HU in place. I did this in my 04 Mazda 6s that also had a Bose system. It's time consuming and the wiring is tedious but it can be done and is well worth it. The problem with Bose stuff is getting rid of noise. The HU sends a balanced signal to the amps so you have to convert the signal to unbalanced for aftermarket amps (most of the time, not always) or you get a lot of noise. I used AudioControl line drivers to convert the signal in my Mazda and it worked very well. There is no noise at all in my Mazda, none.
I have been running a Rockford Fosgate t1500-1bdcp in my car for 3 years and not had any issues. The lowest I've had it put out is 1200w @ 4 ohms and I listen to music every time I am in my car. The electrical system has been fine and my car is '11 with almost 70k miles. Unless you're running some crazy system being used for competitions I wouldn't worry about upgrading it.
I'm running a JL Audio 1200HD amp with 2 10w6v3 subs (600 watt rms each), 1 gauge power wire, pulling the signal from the factory amp in the trunk and no capacitor. Haven't had a problem out of the system in almost 3 years.
Agreed, it would be pointless to change the speakers and leave the Bose amps in place. I'd think you could change the amps and hook them up to the factory speaker wiring. Replacing everything in the doors with a good set of components looks like a good idea to me.
Just got some Southwire Execelene 1/0 gauge welding cable to use as a power cable for the Zapco amp. This cable is all copper, flexible enough to tie in a knot, and the insulation is as thick as anything I've seen before. Got it for $1.80 a foot online. 25' red and 10' black, $12.00 shipping, $75.50 total. Hard to beat that. It's not the prettiest but so what, who's going to see it.
08-31-2017, 07:32 AM
