Arrogant

I have a g37 navigation with bose. So, I got 2 13W3 4 ohm's installed about a year ago running off 1000W JL v2. So I have now blown 3 of these 13W3's. I have them running to an audiocontrol lc2i which i believe runs to the front speakers because if i fade to the rear i lose all bass. I had the audio shop set it up and they keep saying everything is dialed in right. I keep the bass the g37 setup half way up and keep the audiocontrol remote bass all the way up a lot. I dont believe I hear clipping or any other distortion, something has to be causing this. Any ideas? I cannot figure out why these jl's would always blow like this.

ai3j50

The JL 1000/1 is a beast I dont know the specs on it but it might be too powerful for the W3s which are lower on the subwoofer scale. The JL 1000/1 is a perfect match for JL W6s. I would compare the max RMS output on your amp to what the W3s can handle. The amp should be filtering out the high end output so it should not matter that the amp is wired to the front speakers.

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

You're clipping the signal.

Even though you cant hear it, it's happening.

Sounds like you want a bigger set up. You might want to look into upgrading soon.

You can usually feed the subs quite a bit more than the stated RMS with no problems. When you say you "keep the audiocontrol remote bass all the way up" that's a pretty good sign you are feedding your equipment a clipped signal

socketz67

The JL 1000/1 is rated at 1000W per channel (1) into 1.5 to 4 ohm loads (only a beast of an amp could handle a variety of loads while maintaining the same output)

1000/1v2 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - Slash v2 - JL Audio

13W3v3-4s are rated at 600W continuous RMS power: 13W3v3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio

At 1000W, the warranty is void. Not sure why the shop sold you this combo.

Wired in parallel, with something more modest like the JX500 running at 2 Ohms would have worked out better.

Another thing to note is that all of the speakers in the G are post processed, meaning, they are crossed over/filtered within the Bose Amp[s].

What this means is if you run a hi-low converter off any of them, you are not getting a full range signal to feed into the Amp you purchased.

On the sedan, the lower door speakers are the low range drivers, so that signal is probably being rolled off above 120Hz, so you may be ok since the Amp will be looking to amplify a similar frequency range.

Gregor12

iTrader: (3)

if he’s got two 13 inch w3v3’s and both of them are single 4 ohm then the shop most likely wired the subs in parallel making it a single 2 ohm load. each sub should get 500 watts RMS from the 1000/1v2 then, right? So i don't think that the power is the issue here. I ran a 12 w3v3 SVC 2 ohm on a 500/1 for ever without issues and pushed it hard. I would check your wiring and everything man. Hopefully they didn’t reverse polarities or something when they tapped into the factory system. This is how I’ve been running mine for a while and i have had zero issues.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-v...an-w-bose.html

socketz67

True.

In parallel, while Voltage is the same across each component of the parallel circuit, the sum of the currents through each path is equal to the total current that flows from the source.

E x I=W, so each speaker will assume half of the output power.

You may want to call JL as I hear their support is excellent.

There is a number on page 13 of the user manual for the amp: https://content.abt.com/documents/16...1v2_manual.pdf