Hey guys, I'm looking to replace my rear sub that is located behind the back seat headrests. I'm a noob when it comes to car audio.

The sub has started making a really annoying squeaking noise which is the reason I'm looking to replace it.

I guess my only question is how do I go about doing this? Is it as easy as removing the old one and screwing in the new one and plugging it in?

I've attached a picture, what is the silver box located directly below the sub?

If there's a DIY on here somewhere I'd love to take a look. I searched but didn't find anything.


Thanks in advance!

 

I believe that box is your antenna amp. Others have reported that the package tray rattles like crazy when they ve put another sub back there. Also, it need to be a speaker made for operating in free air and not a cabinet.

Your squeaking might be something else back there. Are you positive it's the speaker itself?

 

Yeah I'm pretty sure it's the speaker. i took off the speaker grill and tapped on the rubber part of the sub and it made the same noise I hear constantly every time I hit a bump. 99% it's the sub.

 

disconnect it and add a powered sub to the trunk?

that thing is just a mud-maker anyways.

 

That"s a good point. How much power does the Blows(Bose) amp put out? I don't know if its enough to run a decent sub. If it's not then it would be an easy thing to run the wires to the high level inputs on an amp and then get a little sub in a little box.

Surprisingly enough, this little cheapo sub is getting pretty good reviews. I would try it at this pricepoint, what do you have to lose? If it sucks, return it.

 

If you want to give up the room...a sub in an enclosure will help extend the lower frequencies.

You will need and amp and wire also. Most modern amps have speaker level inputs so you may not need a line out put converter.


Amp and associated wires will probably run another $150-$200.
The sub you linked isnt great but it will be better than the Bose sub.

 

i don't know, but it can't be much. i tapped off the preamp signals from the head unit BEFORE the Bose amp for my low-level inputs and ran a dedicated power wire from the battery.


i don't like ported subs, but if you like boomy rap music, then maybe go ported. i went with a sealed powered sub for tighter, more accurate bass. i used this Kicker that i had from my last car - $150 at Best Buy or Walmart, easy to remove if you need the trunk space (undo connector and pull it out). also has bass level remote **** that i mounted next to the center console.

 

Ported subs can be just fine if they're designed correctly. If they aren't, then they are boomy sounding fart boxes. Sealed does give you a flatter response throughout its response range, but it takes more power. I don't listen to my music very loud so I never get to the point where the port would be chuffing.

I do like that Kicker sub, it's a nice compact package.

Is that Bose amp on the rear package tray the amp for all of the speakers including the sub? If so, it would be an easy thing to get the line level signal as opposed to the high level signal.

 

do you think the $60 sub the OP linked is designed correctly?

Im more interested in it being tight and accurate - i listen to a lot of metal with fast double bass drums. sealed enclosures are generally more compact, also.

i could be wrong about the sedan, but the amps in the coupe are in the trunk under a plastic cover. the sub amp is piggy-backed on top of the main amp.

 

Sure, why not? It's not that difficult. More money doesn't necessarily equate to better sound. As long as the math was done even a cheap sub in the enclosure that fits it's specs will sound just fine.

 

^^ I agree

Same with the ported boxes.

The reason to go ported is for efficiency.

I've ran both the sloppy ported boxes and properly tuned boxes.
Both have their purpose

 

Now this is a great deal if you don't mind refurbished. It's a nice, compact, package.

Kicker Refurbished 11PT10 Car Audio BassStation Powered 100W 10" Truck Enclosure - 11PT10-RS

Just like the above, but cheaper!

 

eh, id rather spend the extra $20 and get a brand new one from the local Best Buy or Walmart that i could easily return if something was wrong with it.