cammattscott

I am starting this thread in hopes to point XPRESSKIT in the right direction when we find bugs/quirks with the DBALL/DBALL2.

I have heard some say that windows roll down when driver door is opened...

Today, I experienced very odd behavior. I learned that my emergency shutoff switch that comes with the DBALL2 does NOT appear to work like I expected...

When switched to OFF, the car still starts with 3X LOCK from remote! It also starts with the shutoff switch on ON (seems like ON would be default for -"I want my car to start with DBALL2").

When I turned OFF the car with PTS button, it started up again by itself. I turned it off again from PTS and it started AGAIN, by itself! Again, this happened when the shutoff switch was in the "OFF" position.

I was under the impression that when the DBALL2 shutoff rocker is OFF, remote start should NOT happen...

YIKES!

I will be contacting XPRESSKIT with a WTH??? tone in my voice...

filipinowise

I'm having the some issues on my 2011 g. My car won't start remotely after a few weeks. I hit the unock on fob 3x and nothing, repeat the process and nothing... Then the alarm goes off! I had it professional install and I've taken it back three times already and going back for the fourth and final time. 1st time they flash it to a uk firmware, it worked a few weeks then stopped. 2nd they replaced the kit, it work a few weeks, and then stopped. 3rd time they got support on the phone for assistance, they said xpress had them flash it for a different car and flash it back to infiniti g37, GUESS WHAT? it worked a few weeks and stopped. So I'm scheduled to take it back next week and they will contact xpresskit again for support. I'm like WTF! I was planning to get the viper smart start but it use dball2 as well.. So it will be an ongoing issue.

Jestered

iTrader: (1)

I know this is an older post, but in case someone else is having the same problem... There's actually nothing at all wrong with what you've described. The problem is that you didn't quite understand how the box and over-ride switch works.

If the over-ride switch is "On", you're over-riding the box, meaning it will not work/start the car. If the over-ride switch is "Off", you're not over-riding the box, meaning it will work and start the car. Seems backwards unless you look at it as over-riding the box, not if the box is "On" or "Off".

The problem with the car restarting twice after you shut it off with the PTS button is normal if you don't touch the brake pedal before shutting the car off. The box is set up by default to attempt to start 3 times during the remote start. So, what you did was remote start the car (attempt 1) and tried turning it off without touching the brake pedal, which lets the box know that you've taken control. So now when you shut the car off using the PTS button, the box thinks the car died and restarts it (attempt 2). You then turned the car off again using the PTS button and the box thought it died again, so it restarts the car one final time (attempt 3). If you remote start the car and decide not to drive and want to turn it off, you need to get in, touch the brake to take control from the box, then push the PTS button. The car will not restart on its own at that point.

That's very odd. I've never seen anyone complain about the DBALL not working after a few weeks. Problems during install, but never seen anyone mention the problem you're having. What did you use for wiring? Did you get the harness or are you using the wires that came with the box?

filipinowise

Hey thanks for the reply. I had the unit professionally installed. I will ask them if they used the wires or a harness. What is the difference? Do you have a dball install?

Jestered

iTrader: (1)

The wires that come with the box have to be wired/spliced into the factory wiring. The optional wiring harness that you can buy makes the install much easier by being able to unplug some factory wire connectors and plug them into the optional wire harness. Then you connect the wire harness to the other end of the factory wire connector. You basically remove the need to splice into the factory wires (except for 2 that still require it) and it makes it much easier to install.

The reason I ask is because I'm wondering if you have a bad wire harness or possibly a bad/weak splice connection. It's possible that removing the box and reflashing it is not what's making it working again. It could be that when you disconnect the box and reconnect it, it makes the weak splice connection (or bad wire harness connection) good again, but it eventually shakes or vibrates itself to where it no longer makes a good connection after a couple of weeks. This is just a guess, but from all the reading and investigating about this kit, I've never seen where people are saying it just stops working after a couple of weeks. Since you've had the box itself replaced, and still had the same problem, I'm wondering if it's not the box, but the wiring.

Also, make sure that the over-ride switch is set to "Off". It can be confusing because you could think that the switch being "Off" means the box is off, but that's not correct. Having that switch set to "Off" means the over-ride is off and the box is on. So, if you have that switch set to "On" thinking the box is on, you've actually turned the over-ride on, meaning the box is off. You also need to make sure that the horn chirp on lock is active. For whatever reason, if the horn doesn't chirp when you hit the lock button on the fob, the remote start won't work. I'm not sure if you'r changing that every so often and that's what's causing the problem, but it's another possibility.

Let us know what you eventually find out. It's a great kit and I've had no problems with it.

filipinowise

Jestered,
Thanks for your reply and input. I'm scheduled to meet with Audio Express tomorrow and I will share this information with them.

filipinowise

BTW Jestered do you have dball or dball2? I have dball2 data2data.

Jestered

iTrader: (1)

For our cars they both do the same thing, so I bought the DBALL. But, for whatever reason they sent me the DBALL2, so that's what I have installed.

filipinowise

Did you use the harness? I drop my car off for troubleshooting and they will order the harness for me after I mentioned it to them. Thanks for all your help on this issue as well.

Jestered

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I used the optional wire harness since it made the install so much more easier.

ok2much11

Hoping that someone can help me out here.

Just bought a pre-flashed dball2 for my 11 g37 sedan.

When I went to turn the car on and program the unit it just flashes orange.. a couple of times it seemed to have triggered the locks every few seconds.

I cant get it to stop flashing orange and cant figure out what it means.

Everything else works normally, just the dball acting up.

I used the harness for the install and I've tried with car on and with car running.

Not sure if I should try reflashing, but I'd have to buy the flash tool... hoping someone has a brilliant idea to save me!

gsteigerwald

Anyone else ever have an issue where the car isnt starting because it is saying no key? I have the DBall and Smart Start and this happens if the key is outside the car. When I am in the car and remote start from the app or my key fob it starts as expected? Maybe a relay or fuse that needs to get replaced? Im not sure, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jestered

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like either you never went through the key learning procedure after the install, or it failed when you tried it. You have to go through the setup procedure where the DBALL box basically saves a digital copy of your key in its memory. It uses this to fool the car into thinking your key is inside the key port in the car when it's really not. That's how it's able to start the car when the key is outside because the car thinks it's in the key port.

The key learning/teaching procedure is pretty simple. Did you install this yourself, or did you have someone install it?

Jestered

iTrader: (1)

Here are the steps to have the DBALL learn your key. You'll need to have access to the DBALL so you can see the LED light on the box. This will tell you if you're doing this correctly or not.

1. Connect the 10-pin, 12-pin and 14-pin harnesses to DBALL, then wait until the LED turns ON solid red.

***Ensure that every key fob except one is located at a minimum of 10 feet (3 meters) away from the vehicle BEFORE proceeding with the following programming sequence.

2. Press the Unlock button on the OEM key fob. The LED flashes orange.

3. Insert the OEM key fob into the key port. The LED will continue to flash orange.

4. Press and hold the brake pedal until LED flashes green 3 seconds then goes off.

***The module is now programmed.

5. Remove the OEM key fob from the key port.


If that does not work for you, you probably will need to reset the box so it will go back into programming mode. This type of reset just resets the key programming and does not impact the custom firmware that the box is flashed with, so don't worry about that. Here's how to do that:

1. If required for your installation, connect the 10-pin & 12-pin harnesses to the module. Press and hold the programming button, then connect the 14-pin harness to the module.

2. Wait 3 seconds until the LED turns ON solid orange then release the programming button. The LED turns ON solid red.


Once the LED is solid red, simply start at step 1 above and go through the steps to teach the box your key again. Once you're able to do that, you should be all set and will not have a problem starting the car with the key outside the vehicle.

Let me know how it works out for you.

Gwhizz

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys,
I installed the dball2 and when I go to program the key, it flashes orange 6 times and then does nothing else. Any idea what it could be? I've tried resetting the module, but it does absolutely nothing after flashing orange.

Thanks for your help.