It's the yellow wire that I have posted in your IPDM . It's the big black box next to your battery in the engine bay

 

Fishy story. I drive 6 miles to my office every day. Due to traffic, it takes me about 25 minutes each way. In one week, my battery would never be charged even though my car was running over 4 hours. Throw in A/C, Bluetooth streaming, USB stick & phone charging. That's one hell of a battery!
I call foul.

 

Thats what I was saying too. I really think it is more of a time thing then a mileage thing. I was taking a way to work in the past that is about a 5 minute drive and it killed my battery, now I take a slightly longer rout about 10 minutes and I haven't had any issues. Both routes are under 8 miles?

But it doesnt really matter, if this wire makes the alternator turn on right away whether its time or mileage its a good thing.

 

That's all ?!
I thought u're talking about a wire in the alternator itself , so what the DIY thread for ?!

 

There is no output if the field coil is not energized.
Modern alternators do no use permanent magnets.

So if the field coils do not get energized, there is no magnetic drag, hence increasing efficiency.

Yes, you need electricity to make electricity, in this case.

 

Thanks for the explanation. Seems like a "looked great on paper!" idea.

Since my commute (most of the time) is under 8 miles AND under 8 minutes, I will be removing this lead when I get a chance. Battery was just replaced 2 weeks ago under warranty, so now is the time to help it live a longer life than the original (3 years)

 

OK, I just rad up on this, and the "8 Mile" is just a bunch of baloney.

Without ECM control of the alternator, and the battery being in full charge state, the alternator just generates, and wastes off energy.

The IPDM control shuts off the alternator when the battery is full. Saving load on the engine.

If the battery is dying, then its another issue.

From the manual:

Battery current sensor is installed to the battery cable at the neg- B ative terminal, and it detects the charging/discharging current of
the battery and sends the voltage signal to ECM according to the current value.
C
Battery current sensor detects the charging/discharging current of
the battery. ECM judges the battery condition based on this signal.
ECM judges whether to perform the power generation voltage
variable control according to the battery condition. D When performing the power generation voltage variable control,
ECM calculates the target power generation voltage according to the battery condition and sends the calculated value as the power generation command value to IPDM E/R.
IPDM E/R converts the received power generation command val- ue into the power generation command signal (PWM signal) and sends it to the IC voltage regulator.
IC voltage regulator controls the power generation voltage by the
target power generation voltage based on the received power gen- eration command signal. G When there is no power generation command signal, the alterna-
tor performs the normal power generation according to the char- acteristic of the IC voltage regulator.

 

I tried to pull the wire out and it wouldn't budge. I pull the connector off and there was no way to pop it from the back. Anyone else have this problem??

 

My battery was dead yesterday, so I had to jump start the car. The service manager at Infiniti told me that you have to drive the car at least 20 miles once/week continuiously in order to charge the battery fully. Two 10 mile drives will not do it. Just relaying what Infiniti's stance is on the battery.

 

This is moronic.

 

^I know, but this is the second time my battery died in the past year.

 

Mine died a month ago. Whats up with that yellow wire guys? Does it get snipped? Or how can I pull it out without cutting it?

 

Bump......

 

You have to use a special tool to take it out from behind ....

 

What tool do I need? Link me to the item. I'm afraid my battery is gonna drain soon, since I go on a lot of short trips, so I need to remove this ASAP. Thank you