There might be something to this after all

I just got my Bluetooth/ODBII adapter, installed the free version of Torque on my phone and went to work.

On the way home I monitored battery voltage, and it never got higher than 13.2V during my commute (which is only 4 miles). When I got home I even turned on the AC to see if a load on the engine would cause it to charge at full voltage, but nope...it dipped down the 12.6V when the AC engaged then went back up to 13.1V or so. I would expect full voltage to be around 14V or so

Whenever I get around to it I will try to disconnect the wire in question and see if it sticks to charging at full voltage all the time.

 

Yes it's totally true n mentioned in a TSB by Infiniti and the dealers and techs themselves so it's 100% true and a tech himself told me to remove that wire. I will eagerly wait for a response from u. I have a radar hooked up that shows my battery voltage also and have seen it randomly read 13.3 at times and also 14.6 at others.

Once someone else can confirm this wire is correct I will also want to do it. It would be great if u can include pica or how you really removed the wire, thank you!

 

Drove the car for 10+ miles today in one trip and the battery voltage never got higher than 13.2 or so (it was at the full 14V+ at startup then settled in around 13V)

Im wondering if its really working as intended....is 13V enough to keep the battery charged, provided is a steady 13V (which it was, even as I turned on the A/C, stereo and seat heaters)

There is a pic earlier in this thread of where the "yellow wire" is in the engine compartment, and mine is different. There is a small fuse/relay box right near the battery but there are no connectors on the top of it, and it doesnt feel easy to be able to flip it over to access the incoming harness. Not sure if the location of the lead changed for my 2011.

 

These problems and most issues were on 2008, didn't know they applied to 2011, also I have noticed after I got the TSB done that they had Reprogrammed the ECU per the TSB and I am guessing the reprogramming hopefully makes the alternator turn on more without cutting that yellow wire. Need some input from others.

Also if your alternator wasn't on at all than your voltage would show only your battery power of 12.6 or below, I don't think it would go up a volt, seems to me like your alternator is turning on but you should be more at 14+ voltage with it on

 

How do you remove this damn wire? I really don't wanna cut it out. There has to be some type of tool

 

Was there more testing done on this? I just replaced a battery

 

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but still doing research on these cars. Is this "battery won't charge unless the car is driven at least 8 miles" legit? If so, does it apply to all model years? For example, would it apply to say, a 2013 G37?

 

I can tell you for a fact, on my 2011 G37 the battery voltage is 14.3 - 14.5 volts for the first 4 minutes, then drops to 13.4 - 13.6 for the rest of the drive.

When you think about this, it makes sense. After the large current draw starting the engine, the battery needs to be "topped up".

How do I know this? I am an automotive researcher and data log everything

 

what you probably where measuring was the "battery voltage" and bout the charging voltage. The voltage that your alternator is sending to your battery is higher than the more regulated voltage that comes out your cigarette lighter for example.

 

I have a US import from 2008 and mine had it (I've disabled it). I'm not sure if this is on all models. But an infiniti mechanic told me that he disabled it for a lot of infiniti owners that drove short distances quite often and had trouble with empty batteries.

 

There are tools for it but you can remove it by using a small needle to press in the barb of the connector pin. So first press in the needle on the right spot and then pull on the wire, and not start pulling first.

 

According to the wiring diagram on the G35/G37 (and every other Nissan/Infiniti I have worked on) this is not true.

The output of the alternator is directly wired (via a fuse box) to the cigarette lighter. It doesn't have it own regulator.

 

You are right indeed. That I had this in mind is because in Torque you have 2 different voltages, the "control module" and the "OBD adapter". A long time ago I compared the OBD adapter voltage with my bluetooth (BM3) voltage meter that is connected directly on my battery. The OBD voltage was lower than the BM3. I will check again soon but indeed according the wiring diagram you are right.

 

I understand and see where you are coming from.

The control module voltage is the voltage at the ECM as determined by one of the 10 bit analog to digital converters in the ECM.
This is used for fuel injector pulse width correction.

The OBD adapter voltage is the voltage as reported by the analog to digital converter in your OBD scan tool and is normally fairly accurate within +/- 0.2 volts

 

Quite some difference between the two...

Upper left the voltage measured directly on the battery.