Help Possible battery drain fix
#46
There might be something to this after all
I just got my Bluetooth/ODBII adapter, installed the free version of Torque on my phone and went to work.
On the way home I monitored battery voltage, and it never got higher than 13.2V during my commute (which is only 4 miles). When I got home I even turned on the AC to see if a load on the engine would cause it to charge at full voltage, but nope...it dipped down the 12.6V when the AC engaged then went back up to 13.1V or so. I would expect full voltage to be around 14V or so
Whenever I get around to it I will try to disconnect the wire in question and see if it sticks to charging at full voltage all the time.
I just got my Bluetooth/ODBII adapter, installed the free version of Torque on my phone and went to work.
On the way home I monitored battery voltage, and it never got higher than 13.2V during my commute (which is only 4 miles). When I got home I even turned on the AC to see if a load on the engine would cause it to charge at full voltage, but nope...it dipped down the 12.6V when the AC engaged then went back up to 13.1V or so. I would expect full voltage to be around 14V or so
Whenever I get around to it I will try to disconnect the wire in question and see if it sticks to charging at full voltage all the time.
#47
There might be something to this after all
I just got my Bluetooth/ODBII adapter, installed the free version of Torque on my phone and went to work.
On the way home I monitored battery voltage, and it never got higher than 13.2V during my commute (which is only 4 miles). When I got home I even turned on the AC to see if a load on the engine would cause it to charge at full voltage, but nope...it dipped down the 12.6V when the AC engaged then went back up to 13.1V or so. I would expect full voltage to be around 14V or so
Whenever I get around to it I will try to disconnect the wire in question and see if it sticks to charging at full voltage all the time.
I just got my Bluetooth/ODBII adapter, installed the free version of Torque on my phone and went to work.
On the way home I monitored battery voltage, and it never got higher than 13.2V during my commute (which is only 4 miles). When I got home I even turned on the AC to see if a load on the engine would cause it to charge at full voltage, but nope...it dipped down the 12.6V when the AC engaged then went back up to 13.1V or so. I would expect full voltage to be around 14V or so
Whenever I get around to it I will try to disconnect the wire in question and see if it sticks to charging at full voltage all the time.
Once someone else can confirm this wire is correct I will also want to do it. It would be great if u can include pica or how you really removed the wire, thank you!
#48
Drove the car for 10+ miles today in one trip and the battery voltage never got higher than 13.2 or so (it was at the full 14V+ at startup then settled in around 13V)
Im wondering if its really working as intended....is 13V enough to keep the battery charged, provided is a steady 13V (which it was, even as I turned on the A/C, stereo and seat heaters)
There is a pic earlier in this thread of where the "yellow wire" is in the engine compartment, and mine is different. There is a small fuse/relay box right near the battery but there are no connectors on the top of it, and it doesnt feel easy to be able to flip it over to access the incoming harness. Not sure if the location of the lead changed for my 2011.
Im wondering if its really working as intended....is 13V enough to keep the battery charged, provided is a steady 13V (which it was, even as I turned on the A/C, stereo and seat heaters)
There is a pic earlier in this thread of where the "yellow wire" is in the engine compartment, and mine is different. There is a small fuse/relay box right near the battery but there are no connectors on the top of it, and it doesnt feel easy to be able to flip it over to access the incoming harness. Not sure if the location of the lead changed for my 2011.
#49
Drove the car for 10+ miles today in one trip and the battery voltage never got higher than 13.2 or so (it was at the full 14V+ at startup then settled in around 13V)
Im wondering if its really working as intended....is 13V enough to keep the battery charged, provided is a steady 13V (which it was, even as I turned on the A/C, stereo and seat heaters)
There is a pic earlier in this thread of where the "yellow wire" is in the engine compartment, and mine is different. There is a small fuse/relay box right near the battery but there are no connectors on the top of it, and it doesnt feel easy to be able to flip it over to access the incoming harness. Not sure if the location of the lead changed for my 2011.
Im wondering if its really working as intended....is 13V enough to keep the battery charged, provided is a steady 13V (which it was, even as I turned on the A/C, stereo and seat heaters)
There is a pic earlier in this thread of where the "yellow wire" is in the engine compartment, and mine is different. There is a small fuse/relay box right near the battery but there are no connectors on the top of it, and it doesnt feel easy to be able to flip it over to access the incoming harness. Not sure if the location of the lead changed for my 2011.
Also if your alternator wasn't on at all than your voltage would show only your battery power of 12.6 or below, I don't think it would go up a volt, seems to me like your alternator is turning on but you should be more at 14+ voltage with it on
#52
Sorry for reviving an old thread, but still doing research on these cars. Is this "battery won't charge unless the car is driven at least 8 miles" legit? If so, does it apply to all model years? For example, would it apply to say, a 2013 G37?
#53
When you think about this, it makes sense. After the large current draw starting the engine, the battery needs to be "topped up".
How do I know this? I am an automotive researcher and data log everything
#54
There might be something to this after all
I just got my Bluetooth/ODBII adapter, installed the free version of Torque on my phone and went to work.
On the way home I monitored battery voltage, and it never got higher than 13.2V during my commute (which is only 4 miles). When I got home I even turned on the AC to see if a load on the engine would cause it to charge at full voltage, but nope...it dipped down the 12.6V when the AC engaged then went back up to 13.1V or so. I would expect full voltage to be around 14V or so
Whenever I get around to it I will try to disconnect the wire in question and see if it sticks to charging at full voltage all the time.
I just got my Bluetooth/ODBII adapter, installed the free version of Torque on my phone and went to work.
On the way home I monitored battery voltage, and it never got higher than 13.2V during my commute (which is only 4 miles). When I got home I even turned on the AC to see if a load on the engine would cause it to charge at full voltage, but nope...it dipped down the 12.6V when the AC engaged then went back up to 13.1V or so. I would expect full voltage to be around 14V or so
Whenever I get around to it I will try to disconnect the wire in question and see if it sticks to charging at full voltage all the time.
#55
I have a US import from 2008 and mine had it (I've disabled it). I'm not sure if this is on all models. But an infiniti mechanic told me that he disabled it for a lot of infiniti owners that drove short distances quite often and had trouble with empty batteries.
#56
#57
The output of the alternator is directly wired (via a fuse box) to the cigarette lighter. It doesn't have it own regulator.
#58
You are right indeed. That I had this in mind is because in Torque you have 2 different voltages, the "control module" and the "OBD adapter". A long time ago I compared the OBD adapter voltage with my bluetooth (BM3) voltage meter that is connected directly on my battery. The OBD voltage was lower than the BM3. I will check again soon but indeed according the wiring diagram you are right.
#59
You are right indeed. That I had this in mind is because in Torque you have 2 different voltages, the "control module" and the "OBD adapter". A long time ago I compared the OBD adapter voltage with my bluetooth (BM3) voltage meter that is connected directly on my battery. The OBD voltage was lower than the BM3. I will check again soon but indeed according the wiring diagram you are right.
The control module voltage is the voltage at the ECM as determined by one of the 10 bit analog to digital converters in the ECM.
This is used for fuel injector pulse width correction.
The OBD adapter voltage is the voltage as reported by the analog to digital converter in your OBD scan tool and is normally fairly accurate within +/- 0.2 volts
#60
I understand and see where you are coming from.
The control module voltage is the voltage at the ECM as determined by one of the 10 bit analog to digital converters in the ECM.
This is used for fuel injector pulse width correction.
The OBD adapter voltage is the voltage as reported by the analog to digital converter in your OBD scan tool and is normally fairly accurate within +/- 0.2 volts
The control module voltage is the voltage at the ECM as determined by one of the 10 bit analog to digital converters in the ECM.
This is used for fuel injector pulse width correction.
The OBD adapter voltage is the voltage as reported by the analog to digital converter in your OBD scan tool and is normally fairly accurate within +/- 0.2 volts
Quite some difference between the two...
Upper left the voltage measured directly on the battery.